So I was home unloading my truck with the raido on for about half an hour or so...Go to start and move my truck...yeah, turn the key, all the dash lights come on just like normal, but no dim when I try to start it...nothing, I can go pop the starter and its all good runs and drives, but the key will not start it...

Everything has been working normal and very well, I've only had the truck for a week so I'm still not very in tune with it yet. I bought the truck with only a standard steel key, no key fob, but if I do lock the doors with the switch the "theft" light turns on, so it leads me to believe that it has a stock alarm in it.

Please if you can help that would be great!!!

 

this will sound stupid but:

if it is an automatic just push the gear selector up towards park (just an upward push).

my superduty does this and when i hit the selector up it will act normal and start right up.

 

here is a thread of what i was talking about.. just throwing ideas

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...need-help.html

 

Thanks for the thought...I tryed that last night before I gave up and had it towed lol

I'm getting solinoid click under the dash and thats it...

 

When you try to start it does the theft light blink off and on?

What is the voltage on the battery when measured from battery post to post? Should be around 13.2 VDC. If the voltage is low, under 12 VDC and it has been on a battery charger, then replace the battery.

If battery voltage is good, then check voltage from the negative post to positive cable clamp. Voltage should not change. If it does, remove cable, clean post and clamp, reassemble and retest. Repeat this test in the reverse too. (Positive post to negative clamp).

Now, if the battery is good and you still have a starting problem. The battery is connected directly to the starter by a heavy battery cable (it is also connected to the starter relay). Test the voltage at the starter to a good vehicle ground. If the voltage is low, then clean up the connections, check the cable for corrosion wicked up under the insulation. Correct any problems found here.

On the other hand if the voltage is good here, then check the smaller wire at the starter for voltage when the ignition switch is in the start position. If there is no voltage there when the switch is on, then go to the starter relay.

The starter relay has three wires. One is from the battery(red), one to the starter(red), and the other(tan/red) is from a fuse (hot in start, F21) in the central junction box via the digital transmission range sensor. If you have no voltage out to the starter then check to insure that the tan/red wire is hot in start. If not, then troubleshoot back to the fuse and the DTR sensor. If this is good and there is no voltage on the red wire to the starter, then replace the starter relay.

Good luck!

 

Ok Here You All Go.................

Slot 21 On Interior Fuse Box, Starter Relay Fuse, I Have Owned My Truck For Almost 2 Weeks And I Have Not Moved Or Replaced Any Fuses....

Slot 21 Is The Starter Relay Fuse, Replaced And Runs Great!!!

 

My wife's jeep had a problem like this. We were able to disconnect the battery, let it reset for a minute, reconnect and hit the road. I always felt that computers were like best friends.... sometimes they just need to be slapped. Bit obviously the fuse was the problem for you. Just thought it might help someone else.