All of the coils that were originally installed on the engine were dealer items. Look how many people have had to replace those. In most cases, dealer parts OEM quality is overhyped just as much as it is overpriced.
After all, whats in those things? It's a coil of wire, an iron ferrite bar and a plastic case filled with resin. No moving parts and not much to them.
Hello again, Alloro thanks for the advice! I did got to my local Auto Zone store, found out it is a few bad plugs, the coils should be good. I went ahead and ordered the coils/boots from ebay, i'l replace those anyway once they get in. I'll tell you though, it's a b!tch replacing those plugs with the fuel line in the way on both sides!
My mess up: on the last plug towards the rear on the drivers side, I took the two bolts off of the fuel line (which lays above the plugs/coils) just so I can manuever around to remove the last plug. As I was just about to remove the last plug, I "bumped" the fuel line in the rear and loosened it to the point where a bit of fuel came out. Immediatly I pushed it back down, but it's not all the way together. You can tell by the 2 bolts that hold the fuel line in place are too "high" for the holes. I know the rubber connectors for each fuel injector are tricky to push back into place into the fuel line. Next step? Do I remove the fuel line and relays and push back the rubber fuel injector connectors? Just worried about fuel getting all over the place (rinse it down afterwards with water while avoiding getting the relays wet?).
Right now the fuel line is ok, no fuel leaking. It's just not totally snug and it seems the rear is more "out" then the front part of the fuel line. Remove fuel line? If so, remove the rear clamp that connects the fuel line tubing and other part that I do not know what it is. Advice on the best way to do that. Or "push" back down some how. Any advice on doing that.
Any advice is appreciated. I know i'm doing this at my own risk, but willing to learn and pay for my mistakes.
Disconnect the fuel rail completely (except at the fuel lines). Get a new injector o-ring kit and replace all the old rings. Place the rail/injectors back on the manifold and gently work them down until they seat. Bolt the rail back to the manifold. Keep the original COP if it's functioning. Store the ones you bought from ebay for a rainy day. This is why I suggested that you trouble shoot the problem before buying parts. A bad plug or boot is a lot cheaper than a COP.
Thanks Clemens! Yup i'm a "noob" when it comes to repairs on this truck, still learning and trying not to f@ck up anything else in the process.
To confirm what you just advised, remove the fuel rail completely, meaning remove the the relays and injectors, but at the end of it, the fuel line, leave that on. That correct? Also, when i'm removing the fuel rail injectors, am I removing the 4 rubber parts (injectors) with the fuel rail? Meaning just pull on the rubber connector/injectors upwards to remove from the manifold all together (so don't remove the rubber connectors/injectors from the fuel line, even though that's what's loose). I imagine fuel will come out. If so, do I just rinse the area with water while avoiding getting the sensitive objects wet?
Going to get some new injector o-rings soon from the store. Do I need any special tools for this? Thanks for the advice on the COP. You're right, need to save money by doing things right.
I'm about to try this soon, but want to confirm this with you first before I remove the fuel rails.
Ok, I misunderstood. I tought the injectors came loose at the manifold, not the rail. If thats the case, yes disconnect the wiring from the injectors. BE SURE YOU RELIEVE THE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU START. You should have enough clearance to work on the injectors without disconnecting the rail from the fuel lines. When I did mine, the injectors easily pulled out of the manifold. It was removing them from the rail that required alot of force. Try and keep the injectors in order.
Got it. Right, the injectors came loose from the rail, mainly towards the rear. In relieving the fuel pressure, that just a matter of opening up the gas cap with ignition off?
To confirm again, after relieving the gas pressure, I pull the injectors out of the manifold first. Then push back in the injectors into the fuel rail, making sure they are in tight and not loose like before. Once complete, put back into the manifold, gently.
Do I still need to replace the o-rings? Or only if i'm REMOVING the injectors from the fuel line. Don't think I need too as the injectors are only loose from the fuel line because of my mistake.
Lightly wet the o-rings with Vaseline before sliding the injectors into the manifold and fuel rail. It makes them much easier to install and the gas will dissolve the Vaseline afterwards.
Relieving gas pressure: open gas cap, and.........depress valve on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail?
Just want to make sure I do all the steps to relieve the gas pressure. Any other steps you know of?
Sorry guys for making this a "2 Part" topic! I greatly appreciate all of your advice and input. I'm learning, and it's saving me lots of money, hopefully....
To relieve the fuel pressure: remove the wire connector located behind the passengers side kick panel. Crank the engine. If it starts, then it will soon stall. The pressure is now relieved.
