transfercase q - time to replace?

[DCRB]

So our latest and greatest aero with 196,xxx miles on it (93 xlt extendedawd electronic EVERYTHING with either a tank warmer or a block warmer) has a bad half shaft. whoop de do. but also, when driving, especialy turning, the car will act as if it's binding up on it's self, then make a loud BANG (followed by the 4wd light flashing) then will be fine. recently it started leaking the transfer case fluid. i'm guessing this means that something inside the transfer case is broken yes?

i ask because my dad blew up both half shafts on his 95 awd after getting a bunch of dirt in the cv joints when the boots tore, but no problems of the described above have followed on the 95.

thanks in advance!

Ryan

[copper_90680]

DCRB

Unplug the AWD module under the driver's seat to see if the problem went away. If it does, that means one or both of the speed sensors on the Transfer Case have gone bad. Replacing those is very straightforward.

Also, it common for T/C fluid to leak through the speed sensors if they are bad. Check to see if that's where the fluid is coming from.

[96_4wdr]

also bolts holding transfer half cases together loosen over time and leak at seal.
tighten only to spec. steel bolt into aluminum thread case, strips easily.

don't drive until sensor control issue found. can also be corroded connectors on front/rear driveline sensors or wiring.

use Mercon ATF in these, all that the electric clutch is spec'd for
should be changed every 60k
i use Mobil 1 ATF because of the load put upon the small TC case and poor cooling. one of the other full syn. ATFs will work well also, Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil etc.

[DCRB]

SWEET i'll check those out as soon as i have a spare min that isn't dedicated to school, work1, work2, g/f, etc. so saturday or sunday. are those sensors hard to replace/obtain? IF i had to get a new t case i think ebay would have to be the way to go, all the awd aeros in the 2 j/y's i've looked at have 200k+ miles on them, or just under that.

i'll deff. have to replace with the better stuff, it's going to be used for masonry work. bricks = not light.

[xlt4wd90]

To save the drivetrain, you should disconnect the AWD computer under the driver's seat now, while you look into the other issue. Those sensors are pretty easy to get at. But they are like $40 or more each.

[DCRB]

OUCH. so where's this magical awd computer under the drivers seat at? i've looked under there before, no sign of a magic box...

[93nighthawk]

Under the drivers seat should be a PCM type box about 4x6 (if memory serves me right) metalic and plastic. Some of them were hooked to the seat so look under there with a flashlight, there will be a wire harness plugged into it.

[96_4wdr]

the system will still be full time AWD 30/70 front/rear power, just that there will be no 100% lockup front/rear when the faulty sensors think there is a driveline speed different.

the bang clunk jerk is the lockup you feel on dry non slick pavement

i had mine up on icy roads playing several weeks ago doing slow speed ricer power drifts on ice. cool totally different feeling when the lockup kicks in. straigtens the rig right out quickly.
i can see why the AWD computer/PCM combo disables lockup at higher speeds. would not be safe in an icy curve and have an axle break loose and go into lockup.
about the best implementation I've seen for full time AWD except maybe for the Audi Quattros and A6 V8, now there is a power drifting machine.

[bozzzz94]

DCRB-Did you find it yet? When you look under the just simply look for the small electrical harness drooping down. Trace the wire. The box is on a sliding track on the spring frame of the seat.

[DCRB]

yup yup i found it. it's right where you guys said it was. i'd test drive to see if it's fixed, but it's not insured right now, and i don't want a fatty ticket.