New Truck For me Possibly

jeremiah302 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-15-2008, 10:17 PM

Here's the deal I have run across a 1995 F-150 w/a 302 4x4 Long Bed. It belongs to a friend of mine and he is in a financial bind and is selling the truck to me for $300.00 dollars, that is a steal. He hasn't been able to drive it in a while b/c he has had problems w/the waterpump on it. He said the bolt holes have been stripped out, now if it is the same as my truck "which is a 88 w/a 302 efi" it has a housing behind the water pump that can be replaced, am I right about this? Everything else on the truck works. If any one can give me some advice about if I'm right on the water pump it would be cool.

Truckin4life · #2 (**permalink**) 05-15-2008, 10:20 PM

I do belive you are corect on the housing... I do belive there are some bolts that go all the way through to the block though... If those are the ones stripped out then they will need to be drilled and helicoiled...

jeremiah302 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-15-2008, 10:24 PM

thats what I thought b/c when I replaced the water pump on my truck 2 weeks ago I seen the housing behind it, the bolts he is talking about are the ones that hold the water pump on though, but I know some of them go into the block itself, lucky for me I have access to a big shop and plenty of tools..lol

Dre82s · #4 (**permalink**) 05-15-2008, 11:29 PM

For your own sake do not use helycoil!, go ahead and tap it and re-thread it with a bigger bolt

jeremiah302 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 12:51 AM

ok now do the bolts for the water pump housing go the whole way through the block? and if so how big of a deal is it to get them out?

1966Tbird · #6 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 05:12 PM

yeah they go through the block and into the water passage, but only 4 of them do this. just drill everything out 1 size bigger and tap the hole, a helicoil will not work at all and hell for $300 i wouldnt worry about it if you trash the block you can sell parts for more than that.

1966Tbird · #7 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 05:13 PM

and be sure to pull the timing cover in order to drill and tap everything, not that hard but while your in there you could always throw a new bump stick in her.

flareside_thunder · #8 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 06:59 PM

Yea the timing chain cover is the plate you are referring to......it's aluminum that'd be why...FYI I have a helicoil in my driver side head for an intake bolt and it works just fine..even torqued to specs.

JR

1966Tbird · #9 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 07:22 PM

that's different a helicoil works because ti bottoms out in the bolt hole and won't turn anymore, you can't use it in a hole that goes all the way through

jeremiah302 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-16-2008, 07:50 PM

cool tbird thanks for the info, if I do mess anything up at least I have another 302 motor that is in my current truck that I can use or take parts off of. I am going to go get the truck tomorrow and park her at the shop so I can work on it when I get off of work, and if everything pans out and the tuck runs right it will be a daily driven truck.

flareside_thunder · #11 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 12:27 PM

I disagree...I had my helicoil done in the bolt hole on the end of my head.....it goes all the way through.........it is not the helicoil you're probly thinking of with the bent over bottom on it.......when the machine shop did mine (can't thank them enough either) they used some sort of special resin that just came out to hold it into the oversized threads they had tapped.

JR

jeremiah302 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-18-2008, 10:06 PM

today I went to the shop and pulled the water pump and the timing chain cover off of the block, and the were no bolts that went the whole way through the block what so ever. One thing that I WAS NOT prepared for was the fact the Harmonic Balancer had to come off before the timing chain cover did, that was a chore to get off. I examined the block and the timing chain cover's bolt holes and w/luck they do not need to be drilled and tapped. The gasket on the timing chain cover was bad thats the reason it wasn't holding water. So I decided to take the oil pan off or thought I would and discovered I have to take the exhaust off just to get the oil pan out, so tomorrow that will come off. I any one has anything they think I should do while the timing chain cover is off and the oil pan is off let me know, One of the things I am going to do is replace the small gasket in the timing chain houseing cover for sure no sense in putting it back together and it going bad

alz · #13 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 05:44 AM

If you are going to pull the oil pan, use a one piece gasket. If the pan is coming completely out, it's a good idea to replace the oil pump and pickup(and pan if it shows signs of rusting through).

flareside_thunder · #14 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 04:22 PM

Not to mention a double roller timing chain..hell might as well do a cam swap too!lol

JR

jeremiah302 · #15 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 08:24 PM

The oil pan gasket is a one piece anyways, and replacing the oil pump and pick up is a good idea, ty Alz... and the idea of a cam swap not going to happen, I don't want to sink to much money into it and turn around and have the thing blow up on me or give out.