Hi, new to forum, searched but could not duplicate my issue.
Replaced Fan/Clutch with OEM from TeamFordParts last fall.
Only hill overheat test was on trip to Florida & hill climbing. Temp hit 239 degrees on my Scan Guage, Needle Guage is at Red location, still no Big Fan Roar kick on. Slow down, turn heat/fan on high, open windows to lower temp.
Did a couple of Prestone Super Flush & Super Cleaner procedures, run idle to 190 with heat/fan on high for 10-15 minutes. Understand that these rads clog up the center first which would negate heat getting to the Fan/clutch, and causing it to kick into high fan speed and audible roar.
The Fan/Clutch does not kick in at initial engine startup for a few seconds as someone suggested, but it does stop instantly on engine shut down, and does not spin freely, very difficult to move by hand also.
Someone suggest that I cover grill with a blanket to get temp up 15-20 degrees over the Thermostat openning, but cannot locate spec's on the Thermostat.
Understand if I do this test, remove the blanket, if temp lowers quickly, I need to pull the radiator to repair/replace.
Thermostat spec's and/or other suggestions would be appreciated.
Eugene.
Surprised to have no feedback, perhaps someone can give me some input on this. I heard something about checking the engine radiator with an Infared sensor, which would indicate if the center of the radiator is giving off the same temperature as the sides.
Does anyone have experience with this procedure and where can I purchase an infared sensor?
Thank again. Eugene.
i know if this was me, i would replace the parts with oem and use motorcraft coolant, check all your filters air filter and stuff, but running the truck with the needle on hot is not good i hope you didnt crack the block. Thats what i would do first
All filters are done, pretty certain I did not crack the block, only just barely gets close to the red marker, reading about 237 degrees, before I cool it down. I did replace the Fan CLutch with OEM ford part in October,
Confused about the spinning of the blade with my hand with motor off. I replaced the original fan clutch because it was just barely spinning by hand, so bit the bullet and replaced it.
Does that mean the original unit sitting on my workbench is still good,and the brand new out of the box OEM Ford fan clutch is defective?
I cannot attest to the condition of either fan clutch without seeing them but WILL tell you that you should be able to spin the fan with your hands when the truck is off and cold. I just went out and turned mine by hand. I will get in it and start it in a minute to take the kids to school and it will roar for about a mile until it "let's go".
I was responding to this comment. "The Fan/Clutch does not kick in at initial engine startup for a few seconds as someone suggested, but it does stop instantly on engine shut down, and does not spin freely, very difficult to move by hand also."
I have no idea why yours will seem to spin 1 to 1 with the engine but still not keep it cool unless the thermostat is not opening. You can actually pull that out and test it in a pan of water on the stove and a household thermometer.
Hi guys,
Had the rig checked by a local rad shop, did work there before, great people, they checked the fan clutch, 1 to 1 running warm engine. Stopped it, fan spun a couple of seconds, he then turned it by hand and said it was working fine.
After explaining how the fan clutch does not kick on @ 230-237 degrees, he said it's the aluminum rad ... Pulled the rad, it dropped out the bottom by raising the wheels up on 2x8's and then raising again on the RV jacks.
Pricing on rads are 340.00 for Ford OEM and 217.00 at Napa (Modine Brand) and 243.00 at Autozone.
Any suggestions, or should I just stick with OEM?
Gene.
Just to update on my progress, installed the new radiator yesterday, then flushed system with garden hose (home softened water), with engine at operating temp for 10 minutes. Redrained system.
Supposed to be a 30.6 quart refill according to the ford manual, only managed to get 16 quarts in. Stabilized the Prestone to -43% for my climate.
Now, need to find a big hill on a hot day to test if the fan clutch will function. Someone suggested to cover the front of rad/grill with heavy blanket to get the temp up to fan clutch engagement, considering that, rather than wait till next winter on trip down south through Virginia/Carolina montains.
Attempted to get the temperature up to 208-212/220 to test the fan clutch engagement, after reaching normal temp. 182-190, placed cardboard between the rad and condensor, really did not do much but maintain it at 190 at idle, so revved it to 2800 rpm for a couple of minutes, only brought it up to 197-200 degrees, so let it idle, cool to normal temp and shut it down.
It will have to wait till I go south next winter in the hills of Virginia on route 64, a nice long steep grade. Otherwise, quite happy with the new fan clutch and new radiator, cooling system is running cooler by 8-10 degrees at idle.
Gene.
my 2001 v10 EX got hot pulling my 30 ft camper down I81. stopped it cooled down and i continued on, without the a/c running. when i got home, noticed that the condenser coils in from of the radiator was clogged. i power washed and replaced the thermo stat. napa says the oem temp is 195 deg.... hey GENE if you drive down I81 toot as you come through east tn. i'm about 10 miles from bristol motor speedway. : )
I've been driving a V10 powered motorhome for the last 6 days. I can attest that the fan clutch will come on on this unit in town when the temps reach 197*. Lotsa heat under the hood.
I don't understand what the mechanic said. It said it was because it was an aluminum radiator or that the radiator was plugged up? Not sure how the aluminum part has anything to do with it.
Thanks for all the input fella's, Ken, you're right the tech was not stating an issue due to the aluminum rad, just that the rad was plugged and it was of an aluminum structure, that's all.
Well GREAT NEWS< on a trip to NH & Maine from last Monday to Saturday, going south & east, found that the new radiator kept the temps lower than the old rad, on steep hills only managed to hit about 207 degrees when reaching top of hill, no fan/clutch kick in.
However, on the return trip west & north, managed to get it up to 220 degrees before reaching top of hill, fan/clutch kicked on and the temp was down to 198 when reaching the top of the hill. Very pleased with my work, great improvement.
All temps are per my Scan Guage the dial guage on the dash never left it's position in the lower 1/4 point when temp hit 220 degrees.
Did not change the thermostat when doing the rad, so picked up the stat & gasket "O" ring and will do that next, who knows, it still has orig stat at 70K, may see some cooling improvement as well if the old stat is not functioning properly. Thanks again.
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