better gas mileage?

[massey0317]

I have a 07 ranger V6 and I am looking for ways to up my miles per gallon, any suggestions?

[rubydist]

4.0 or 3.0? Stick or auto?

The 4.0 actually gets better mileage if you drive it a little harder - it will upshift too soon if you drive like grandpa, and below 2000 rpm that engine doesn't have much torque.

Keep it under 70, since the truck isn't particularly aerodynamic. Keep lots of air in the tires - as much as you can w/o having the tires wear funny. Put 0W30 synthetic oil in it at your next oil change.

[hillbilly1025]

I understand the syn part but why the 0w30? sorry if thats a stupid ques

[sfcwoodret]

You will get pretty much what the truck is rated at with reasonable driving habits and there isn't much that can be changed about that.

[oldgoat49]

I think that running the tires with some more air in them will help along with driving a little slower. However I wouldn't go to the max that is on the tire. I go more to a split between what is rec for the truck and the max for the tire. Too much air pressure will reduce the contact patch with the road which will reduce braking and in the rain will reduce grip. The Ow30 doesn't help except at startup. Once it is warmed up it is still up to the vis of 30 weight. On my 3.0 I am suppose to use 5w20, which is suppose to help with gas milage. I'd just try different driving styles and see which one seems to suit your truck better otherwise.

[snowdog79]

Put a vacuum guage in it. You see just what your right foot is doing, and how much it's costing you. You can usually use smaller throttle openings and still maintain your speed. I play the "how many MPGs can I get" game with all my vehicles. It's fun and keeps my money in my pocket instead of Chevron's.

[rubydist]

Originally Posted by hillbilly1025

I understand the syn part but why the 0w30? sorry if thats a stupid ques

Not a stupid question at all, since many people don't understand how oil is categorized.

XW30 oil is all virtually the same viscosity at 100 C, which is roughly the temperature that the oil runs at once the engine is warmed up.

0Wxx oil is less viscous than 5Wxx oil when measured at 0 C.

So, the 0Wxx oil will be less thick during the engine's warm-up phase. This has 2 significant advantages. First, the vast majority of engine wear occurs when the engine is cold (well documented by scientific studies), and a less thick oil results in less wear when the engine is cold. Second, the oil that isn't as thick when cold will have lower pumping losses, so the engine is more efficient and returns slightly better mileage.

[bazzman1953]

here
This should answer some of your questions.

[whitebassbenny]

I can't get better then 14 city in mine driving under 2K at all lights and at around 55 on HW i get about 20-22.

[billj6]

Whitebass, you must have the 3.0 also. About 14 city and just under 22 highway is what I have always gotten in my '99 x-cab, 2x4. It now has 95,000 miles and I just punched some very small holes in the paper air filter as an experiment. Haven't clocked mileage since but it still runs like a watch. I recently changed AT fluid for the first time ever and I think that contributes to my feeling of well being. Next long drive I'll watch mileage. Usually I just drive to work and back - 28 mi. r/t. In 1998 I had a Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder with 5 speed stick. Didn't stop at gas stations nearly as often then and it had guts too. Love my Ranger, but gas mileage is the biggest disappointment. I said that even when gas was much cheaper.

[scottm]

Bazzman meant to say: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/73...about-gas.html

[bazzman1953]

Thanks, scottm, my link was a dead click.
I pulled 22.5mpg last week 30%city and 70%hwy in hilly country fighting strong headwinds climbing up out of Marquette back to Ishpeming for two days. Not too bad for a truck with 180.xxxmi. on it and a front end needing repairs and a non-existant rear shackle bracket.
It has a bad MAf sensor, also.
Shows what can be done by connecting the graymatter to the truck.

[scottm]

Since I didnt see the stock answers for helping mileage, here goes:

Tune up. New wires and plugs if they arent new already.
Airfilter. Low restriction, either a new paper one or a KN filter. If an FIPK gets you from 20 to 22 mpg, it'll pay for itself in 10,000 or so miles, not counting what it'd cost to replace 3 paper filters in that time. (assuming gas at 4$/gal, and you can keep your foot out it...)
Exhaust, again, another couple MPG can be gained there.

Drive slow, accelerate slowly, decel slowly, don't idle if you can help it, and tailgate semi's.

Or, move to the not so great white north like bazzman, where the air is always cold and dense :-p

Scott

[Bear River]

Any money you save on a K&N gets eaten up when it destroys the MAF sensor. IF you want a washable filter, go for the AFE ProDry. I switched from K&N to ProDry, and I'm never going back.

[bazzman1953]

I will NEVER put another K&N on my truck. My MAF sensor is ruined because of one [installed before I got the truck]. They are not cheap to replace.
Anyhow... more ways to increase mpg, kick the air pressure in your tires to 42psi is a good comprimise, TIMEING LIGHTS... make this one a video game that you are out to win by not stepping on your brakes [-points for touching them]. Learn your route and how to antisipate traffic patterns. Adjust your driving accordingly, remember, every time you touch your brakes you loose points, and the harder you hit your brakes the more points and MPG!!! you lose. When you start to turn this into a game your ride will become more interesting and more challenging. You are now competing against OPEC and yourself.