1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck
Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.
You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
I finally got around to playing with my '71 and surprise surprise the engine is seized from setting up so long. It turned over just a few years ago but I guess the rings are set against the cylinder wall. I've tried moving it with a wrench and bar against the pulley bolt, but it is so tight I couldn't get it to budge and nearly broke the socket.
Considering the engine did not ingest water, and is most likely just seized from setting still so long, what are my odds of loosening it up? I keep reading online of people squirting penetrating fluid in through the spark plug holes but I have yet to read of anyone have any luck with it.
I'm new to the forum, but abit of a backyard mechanic. I read your post about the frozen engine and it reminded me of the last time I had to repair one. I had a "63" galaxie 500 (2-door hard top) it had a 352 in it that had sat for over two years in Oxnard Ca. (Ocean front property ) it didn't have any plugs, carb or distributor and was froze up tight, I squirted Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders and let it set for a couple of weeks and replaced all the missing parts. It took two batteries too start it but it broke loose and started. The more I ran that old 352 the better it got. If you go the MMO route try turning it over with the plugs out and the coil disconnected.
It just seems a bit odd to me that it would seize up like this. The truck didn't ingested any water and has been fully assembled and parked in a shed since it last ran, so it shouldn't be so hard to break loose.
I appreciate the advice, Glenn, if the PB blaster doesn't work i'll for sure give it a try. How much did you put in each cylinder? Did you just pour it in or find a way to spray it?
It could be a weeping head gasket that seeped water into a cylinder or two... I took a 289 apart with a hammer that had that happen on several cylinders. (put together without the head dowel pins, so I was told)
I used one of the old style squirt cans and gave it two or three good squirts and of course let it soak for awhile.
Like cntdrv said, it's possible for a head gasket to seep into a cylinder, but old engines that have sat for quite awhile will sometimes freeze up, it's also possible that it had gotten condensation into the engine over time. Since it's already frozen you really don't have anything to lose by trying something in the cylinders and turning it over. The alternative is to start tearing it down.
I was able to pull 7 of the 8 plugs (one would require removing the exhaust manifold) and sprayed PB Blaster liberally inside. I did find a hint of rust on the ends of a couple of spark plugs. I guess some condensation could have gotten in through the open intake or exhaust valves. I can only pray the head gasket is still good.
I'll give it a couple more trys over the next week to see if I can free it up. I'm unfortunately not a good enough mechanic to tear down an engine so if it doesn't free up eventually I'll have to just call it a loss.
Daggum this is depressing. Until today I thought I had an engine that only needed a few tweaks to get running.
If it's frozen up good there's a likely chance you'll damage something even if it does free up. The Marvel Mystery oil is a good trick and may work, let it set overnight. I knew some guys that had a 74 F250 4X4 with a frozen up 390, they actually put it in gear then pulled it with another truck until it broke free. It was a 4-speed manual truck. It ran after that but not very well if I recall.
'05 Excursion LTD 6.0 4X4, 01 F250 7.3 4X4 Crew
73 Bronco, 66 F100 CC LWB, 62 Uni LWB
69 Cobra 428CJ, 4-speed, 64 Fairlane 2dr Post
See my other projects at: www.fullsizeford.com
if it is a straight drive ,you can try this ,put it in the highest gear that will slide the rear wheels and get several buddies to rock it forward & back [with plugs removed & belts removed from crank]. if the tires slide real easy put some weight in the trunk.keep the cylinders sprayed real good . good luck. just a reminder== when you are trying to break it loose with a socket on crank pulley bolt, make sure it is in neutral,[ easy to forget ] .
Don't mean to discourage but we recently put a qt. of Marvels in a 4 cylinder Farmall that had seized from sitting. We rocked it in high gear, drug it with another tractor after letting it set for a couple weeks.
We sold the tractor and the new owner had to pull the pan and heads to get the stuck piston out. (We were getting it ready to sale when we found it seized.)
Good luck with yours.
In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
I let the PB Blaster set overnight, and tried pulling it off in 4th gear today. No dice.
I even put a 55 gallon barrel in the bed over the rear axle and filled it with water. Even with 500lbs weighing down on them the tires just slid. I guess I'll let it set for a couple more days before I try something else.
I've thought about putting some biodiesel in there. Its really good at eating up gunk and lubricating things so I figure it is worth a try if everything else fails.
You will have to pull a head if this works but Get a fitting for one of the plug holes that you can connect to a grease gun. Pump it up and it will force the piston down and break loose. Have done this on tractors befor it does work about 99% of the time. But like I said you will have to pull the head to clean it back out. If you are not going to rebuild this may not be your best option but it does work.
Remove all plugs, with fluids in the cylinder you do not want to turn it over with them in.
Pull the distributer (make not which way the router is pointing so you can put it back) and drive the oils pump to get things circulating.
I have used diesel fuel, fill all the cylinders and crankcase (some times not necessary) and let it soak over night. If still stuck let it soak longer. I have had some that it took a week to get freed up, so be patient other wise you will break something. I only use a break over bar on the crank, that way I can work it back in forth. Going through the tranmission you can break a piston (the land between the top ring and top). Then you will be forced to tare it down for a rebuild.
If you don't like the diesel, another good penetrating oil is Kroil. I have found it works when nothing else does.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.