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1961 - 1966 F-100 And Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck





Is F-150 Still King?


 
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:58 PM
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65 owner with 68 cab

I have a 65 stepside with a bad floor and bad cab mounts but solid every place else. A buddy is buying a 68 with good floor and cab mounts for the motor. Will the cab mounts fit if I take them from the 68 parts truck, and could I use the floor from the 68 if I cut it out and welded it into the 65. I know the big change was 67 but I thought I remember a lot of the interior cab stuff stayed the same for a while. Any hlep? what parts from the cab of the 68 will fit in the 65?
   
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Old 05-15-2008, 12:57 AM
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Sounds like a lot of work. The 67 and up was a different truck cab wise. A few things will interchange like the seat but sounds like it would be easier to just buy repop floorpans from NPD or Carpenter and fix your 65. The doors, dash, etc is all different in the 67-72. The frames however are pretty much the same.
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:25 AM
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Sorry Jhooch, the floor pans are identical on 2wd drive trucks from 65 to 72, in 73 4" was added to the rear of the pan and that can be cut off if needed.


I would suggest cutting the pan under the seat and cut the welds out in the seam on the firewall. Make sure when you cut out the donor that it will be larger than the original where cut to weld back.


John
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Old 05-16-2008, 01:21 AM
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I wasn't sure if the floors were the same or not. Now I know. My Dad once spent a day cutting the floor out of a 64 Falcon at a local wrecking yard to weld into his Falcon. Looking back, he would have saved a lot of time and money by just purchasing the repop floorpans and installing them. But if you've got the time, tools, and know how then go for it. Just my opinion.
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Old 05-16-2008, 05:19 AM
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Don't disagree with the other part. I am about convinced tis better to swap the complete cab, than do all of the work required to make a pan swap.


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Old 05-16-2008, 03:43 PM
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If you are keeping the rockers and kickpanel area as is...I would cut out only what you need plus an inch or 2 around...if you keep the rockers it will help the cab keep its shape and all...if you need to do both pans and rockers with rthe floor...I would do the weaker part first and then go to the others...the cab mounts, from what Ive heard on here and seen appears to be a fairly straight forward ordeal...measure 3 or 4 times, cut once and weld slowly and patiently checking fit and movement as you go...
my dad a few years ago replaced the entire floor pans except the trans tunnel on an Ausin Healey...tons of time...tons of spot welds to drill out...but the end result is flawless...and it wasnt too expensive either...a good welder is a wonderful thing



- cs65
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:36 PM
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Thanks guys, it sounds like it might be a better and much quicker idea to buy the repop floor pans. I saw where jowilker suggested a new cab. I have been looking but living in Ohio it is not easy to find any that are much better than what I have. And I run into problem of the top being rusted if the bottom is good or the other way around. My top is great, but the floor and cab mounts are trashed. Oh and I'm on the new baby budget so shipping a cab or truck with a nice cab from the south or west is not going to happen this year. Thanks again.
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Old 05-17-2008, 05:48 AM
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jowilker has a very good reputation on FTE.jowilker has a very good reputation on FTE.jowilker has a very good reputation on FTE.
It's hard to tell by your profile where you're from, but now that you have told us Ohio, I understand a little better. You good folks love that free salt deposit that is up there.

A cab can be hauled in the bed of your truck, you might think about driving one in from a neighboring state.

John
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