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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:15 PM
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The Official Ibleedblue SAS write up

Well lets see here, where to begin...

Here is some basic info about the truck:

1986 F-150 XLT Lariat
5.0 HO
C6 w/ shift kit
NP208
Ford 9" Rear
Dana 44

The truck had a Rough Country 4" suspension lift on it that I had installed around 6 years ago. My plans included 37" IROKS and I knew the ttb was not up to the task. I dont like the ttb axle anymore than the rest of you, so something had to be done about. Like get it the heck outa there. This entire swap took roughly 2 weeks to complete and cost me less than $500. Here is a picture before the swap:



Pulled in the shop:



The ttb axle took all of about 45 min to remove. Now dont do as I did and use cinder blocks, they were switched out right after the axle was removed. One of the things that really fought me the entire time (and possibly the biggest pain of the entire swap) was the positioning of jacks. Once the truck is that high up in the air it really becomes a job trying to re-position stands without the truck completly falling over. I ended up with a homemade lift positioned in the front, and that seemed to work the best.




And of course:



I removed and kept all of my old lift minus one axle pivot bracket that I had welded to the frame.

Well next comes the new axle, what it came from, what was wrong with, so stay tuned for more...
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1978 Bronco
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Last edited by Carlene; 05-15-2008 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Changed "finger" shot to link.
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:19 PM
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Awesome, can't wait to see the rest of the build.

Cinder blocks are ok if stacked the correct way, but I think you'd want to put a piece of wood over the top before putting the jack stand on to distribute the load evenly.
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:42 PM
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Hey I use cinder blocks all the time to get that little extra lift, but as Paul said, ad a piece of 2x6 between the block an the stand to even out the load on the blocks, especially if the truck shakes just right on the bare block, could casue stress cracks, and a truck potentially falling on you. Other than that, looks good so far, and get more pics!!
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:45 AM
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looks good so far...
x2 on the 2x6 for load distribuion...
as for pics... the more there are the better it is...
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:17 AM
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Great job man. Rep given
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Old 05-15-2008, 09:28 AM
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looking great man, looking great! i love the color too!

-cutts-
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:54 AM
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Ok the following pictures are of the front axle. It was pulled from a 78' F-150. I got it from a relative for $100. A quick look over and I could tell the wheel bearings where so bad on one side, other damage "might" have occured. Also the Warn lockouts had seen better days, as they only worked when they wanted too.

Pic after It was unloaded, and 4" lift springs removed:



Sure as heck the wheel bearing ruined a spindle. I had some extras laying around so no big deal.



Ok next was to get the axle cleaned up and ready for paint. I used this ancient 800hp grinder w/wire wheel to get the job done.





After it was cleaned sprayed it down with primer...





Went to TSC and picked up a quart of Valspar Anti-Rust gloss black paint. It was a shot in dark, being that i've never used it before. But the results could not have been better, and i'd recommend it to anyone! After two coats...




More to come. Such as: radius arm extension, modified 78' coil buckets, and other misc. parts.
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Old 05-15-2008, 12:50 PM
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looks sweet, rep to ya.. I like your tires, you wanna sell them since youre getting new ones?
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Rocking a 79' f150 with a 300 and a 4 speed........
Full York OBA Install
Welding a 9"
Very simple front bumper
Lowering Spring Towers

Hi, I'm Andrew and I have a wheelin problem that is often disrupted by fabbin and drinkin, glad to meet yall.

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Old 05-15-2008, 01:08 PM
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This thread is getting better by the minute. Great job again man.

Im still a little concerned about the punisher skull avatar though.
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:16 PM
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Hey Jesse, where are you located at?
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--Andrew--
Rocking a 79' f150 with a 300 and a 4 speed........
Full York OBA Install
Welding a 9"
Very simple front bumper
Lowering Spring Towers

Hi, I'm Andrew and I have a wheelin problem that is often disrupted by fabbin and drinkin, glad to meet yall.

STGs MinionsTechnical Advisor
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:00 PM
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Thanks for the response guys. Located in Ann Arbor, MI
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1986 F150 4x4/5.0/SAS/5.13's
1988 F150 4x4
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:31 PM
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Cool, then you're really not that far from me, 2 and halfish hours.
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--Andrew--
Rocking a 79' f150 with a 300 and a 4 speed........
Full York OBA Install
Welding a 9"
Very simple front bumper
Lowering Spring Towers

Hi, I'm Andrew and I have a wheelin problem that is often disrupted by fabbin and drinkin, glad to meet yall.

STGs MinionsTechnical Advisor
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Old 05-15-2008, 04:30 PM
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This part will explain the modifications that were made to the radius arms. I lengthened my radius arms 12". This was done using DOM tubing with .250" wall thickness. I picked up a 30ft stick for about $30. Plenty enough for my extensions and a trac bar.

Now instead of using bushings at the mounting point, heim joints are used. I used 3/4" heims, but some people have told me I should have went with 1" heims. If I do it again (or have to repair these) I will get beefier ones. Had them ordered from a local parts, paid about $20 a piece.

Stock:


Extensions welded on:






I also welded a 1/4" thick piece of angle iron nearly the whole length of the arm for strenth.

Finished:

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1986 F150 4x4/5.0/SAS/5.13's
1988 F150 4x4
1978 Bronco
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:38 PM
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Like the work.
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Ok so apparently some small minded people dont understand that the truck in this signature is a combination of many sarcasims. Please quit being stupid and study up before you run your mouth about it.
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:40 PM
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I deffinately wouldve went beefier on both the DOM and the heims. Personally Id use 1 3/4 .375 wall DOM and 1 1/4" heims.

Id check out the big EVOs that Nick (quadzjr) has
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