Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
#1
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
hello, i have a 292 in a 1957 Ford F-600. i have put in a new distributor, replaced plugs, points and wires. It runs good but when you drive it you can put the pedal to the floor and it only goes about 35 - 40 tops. it has a top loading Borg Warner trannsmission, four speed with first creeper. it takes a bout a half mile to get up to 35-40 in 3rd and then you have to have it wound up pretty good to get it to have enough power to not chug when you shift into 4th. This motor is plenty for the truck, but i would like to find out what is cuasing the lack in power. I have the throttle adjusted at high idle when sitting and runs about 3,000 rpm wound up tight. So i don't believe the throttle adjustment is the problem. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'
Thanks,
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'
#2
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
Brad,
I'm not too experianced with the y-blocks yet, I just started with mine this year. Have you tested the compression yet? Adjusted the valves? Whats your plug gap?
Compression has a lot to do with power. Your rings could be worn or you valves could not be closing/opening properly. Did you make up your own plug wires? Check to make sure you have spark at all plugs.
Let us know your results.
Krosati
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I'm not too experianced with the y-blocks yet, I just started with mine this year. Have you tested the compression yet? Adjusted the valves? Whats your plug gap?
Compression has a lot to do with power. Your rings could be worn or you valves could not be closing/opening properly. Did you make up your own plug wires? Check to make sure you have spark at all plugs.
Let us know your results.
Krosati
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Visit my homepage at ClubFTE
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#3
#4
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
I would think if the clutch is slipping at 3000rpm, he'd be smelling clutch at every red light. I still think a compression test will tell the story.
Krosati
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I need new friends
Krosati
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Visit my homepage at ClubFTE
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My friends say I'm too old to play with toys.
I need new friends
#5
#6
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
hey guys,
it isn't the clutch. it runs ggod at idle put when you drive it, it doesn't want to pull anything. in other words it has more bark than bite. even at idle it tends to have a slite miss. it really misses when you shift into 4 th. gear.
57_F600
it isn't the clutch. it runs ggod at idle put when you drive it, it doesn't want to pull anything. in other words it has more bark than bite. even at idle it tends to have a slite miss. it really misses when you shift into 4 th. gear.
57_F600
#7
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
Hi 57,
It might be your fuel system. The "fuel system trouble diagnosis guide" in my 1959 shop manual lists a few symptoms and some causes that sort of maybe fit your description. Here they are:
Rough engine Idle
Engine idle speed set too low.
Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not properly adjusted.
Float setting incorrect.
Air leaks between carburetor and manifold and/or fitting.
Fuel leakage at carburetor fuel bowl.
Poor acceleration
Inoperative accelerating pump inlet ball check.
Inoperative accelerating pump discharge ball check and/or weight.
Accelerating pump diaphram defective.
Float setting incorrect.
Throttle linkage not properly adjusted. (You said you checked that though)
Accelerating pump stroke not properly adjusted.
Leaky power valve, gaskets, or accelerating pump diaphram.
Dirt or corrosion in accelerating system.
Distributor vacuum passages in the carburetor blocked (223 six and 292 MD V-8).
Engine does not develop full power, or has poor high speed performance
Clogged or undersize main jets and/or low float setting.
Clogged or undersize secondary jets (4 barrel)
Power valve clogged or damaged.
Restricted air cleaner.
Secondary throttle plates not opening (4 barrel)
Fuel pump pressure.
Distributor vacuum passages in the carburetor blocked (223 six and 292 MD V-8).
Sorry for the long post. I figured if I typed it all out, maybe you might recognize the culprit. Anyway, I hope it helps you.
It might be your fuel system. The "fuel system trouble diagnosis guide" in my 1959 shop manual lists a few symptoms and some causes that sort of maybe fit your description. Here they are:
Rough engine Idle
Engine idle speed set too low.
Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not properly adjusted.
Float setting incorrect.
Air leaks between carburetor and manifold and/or fitting.
Fuel leakage at carburetor fuel bowl.
Poor acceleration
Inoperative accelerating pump inlet ball check.
Inoperative accelerating pump discharge ball check and/or weight.
Accelerating pump diaphram defective.
Float setting incorrect.
Throttle linkage not properly adjusted. (You said you checked that though)
Accelerating pump stroke not properly adjusted.
Leaky power valve, gaskets, or accelerating pump diaphram.
Dirt or corrosion in accelerating system.
Distributor vacuum passages in the carburetor blocked (223 six and 292 MD V-8).
Engine does not develop full power, or has poor high speed performance
Clogged or undersize main jets and/or low float setting.
Clogged or undersize secondary jets (4 barrel)
Power valve clogged or damaged.
Restricted air cleaner.
Secondary throttle plates not opening (4 barrel)
Fuel pump pressure.
Distributor vacuum passages in the carburetor blocked (223 six and 292 MD V-8).
Sorry for the long post. I figured if I typed it all out, maybe you might recognize the culprit. Anyway, I hope it helps you.
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#8
#9
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
A vacuum leak can cause the symtoms you described. Check the bolts holding the intake manifold for tightness, then the carb studs. Check the bolts holding the top of the carb on also. Check the vacuum line to the distributor. If it has a leak you won't be getting full advance on acceleration. There may be a vacuum port in front of the carb on the intake, check to see what it is connected to if anything. When I got my 55 F100 home, I found this port open to the air and the timing retarded to allow the engine to run. I plugged the port and the engine died immediately. I reset the timing to original specs and it purrs when it idles. I know you said you replaced the distributor but it may need the mechanical advance adjusted. A clogged fuel filter can also cause poor performance. Dirt in the needle valve of the carb can cause flooding at idle that will make it run rough and accelerate eratically. This will also foul the spark plugs.
Just some of the been there done that things I can remember.
Hope this helps.
Rogerf100
55 F100
Just some of the been there done that things I can remember.
Hope this helps.
Rogerf100
55 F100
#10
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
hello,
say, would it help if i were to put thread tape on the vacume line fittings from the carb. to the dist.? or would it still have a vacume leak if that is the problem? also, when i ran it and it missed and chugged i was running it without the air cleaner on it. i also left out the bolt that runs through the center of the carb and holds on the air cleaner, would this cause a vacume problem?
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'
say, would it help if i were to put thread tape on the vacume line fittings from the carb. to the dist.? or would it still have a vacume leak if that is the problem? also, when i ran it and it missed and chugged i was running it without the air cleaner on it. i also left out the bolt that runs through the center of the carb and holds on the air cleaner, would this cause a vacume problem?
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'
#11
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
The tape is not necessary but would make it easier to take apart later. Do you have the original hard line from the carb to the vacuum advance? If so it may have a fine crack that is not noticable, or one of the ends may have crossed threads.
The air cleaner and stud would not create a vacuum leak when removed.
rogerf100
55 F100
The air cleaner and stud would not create a vacuum leak when removed.
rogerf100
55 F100
#12
#14
Runs Good, But No Power? Whats Going On?
hello,
i checked the conpression this weekend and we seem to have a problem. on the drivers side the compressions were, (sarting at the front) 85lbs. 105lbs. 105lbs. 110lbs., and on the passenger side, (starting at the front) 95lbs. 115lbs. 130lbs. 130lbs.. the book that i have says that the compression should be around 150lbs. so as you can tell i have a problem. i checked and all the cylinders have spark through the plug so even at 85lbs. it should fire, but it won't fire. what is your verdict now guys?
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'
i checked the conpression this weekend and we seem to have a problem. on the drivers side the compressions were, (sarting at the front) 85lbs. 105lbs. 105lbs. 110lbs., and on the passenger side, (starting at the front) 95lbs. 115lbs. 130lbs. 130lbs.. the book that i have says that the compression should be around 150lbs. so as you can tell i have a problem. i checked and all the cylinders have spark through the plug so even at 85lbs. it should fire, but it won't fire. what is your verdict now guys?
57_F600
Keep 'Em Crankin'