water pump took a dump

THUNDERBOLT5150 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-11-2008, 11:00 PM

Well i saw a little puddle of coolant under the F350 the other day and got under it to find coolant seeping out of the weep hole on the housing where the shaft goes in.I need to get in there and R&R it within the next week or two so any tips/tricks/shortcuts I should know about before i go take on the job? The reason i ask is im in the middle of recovering from a shattered collar bone (dirt bike/desert thing) and its going to be a little more difficult than normal with a bum shoulder. I need to consider all things before i go jump headfirst into this. Whats a good place to get a quality replacement part for a decent price? should I buy new or rebuilt? what does a replacement pump run these days? Im also replacing the upper and lower radiator and heater hoses. what brand should i use and where should i go for the best price? Vato zone or dealership? or? any input would be appreciated. ThanksRick

Joe_D · #2 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 12:23 AM

If they would fit I would get one of the water pumps that has a spot to screw in a coolant filter. That's what I'd like to do when mine goes t its up. Anyone know if those will fit our trucks and how much they cost?

kawa · #3 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:24 AM

ThunderBolt:
Any of the popular auto parts houses have the pumps. They are all made by Carter and a new one with a lifetime warranty will run about $100.00. When I changed mine I just went with Napa Auto Parts all the way hoses and all.

With that bum shoulder you are going to have quite a bad time I would imagine. If you have any moving blankets they are the best to place over the front and you just kind of lay on them. Hopefully you have a bench to stand on or if your 8 feet tall, no problem. lol

You will need two (2) special wrenches to get the fan off. Loosen the fan shroud and slide a large piece of corrugated cardboard in between to protect the radiator should you slip.

Take all of the hoses off (You said you were replacing them). Once you have the nut loose from the W/P it can be unscrewed and the fan can come out the top. I cut my shroud in half so I would never have to go through working over the shroud again. I put it back together using "L" brackets and bolts, If you decide to do that let me know and I'll get you some photos.

Now would be a good time to change and upgrade the thermostat to a 203*. Also, order a new stat housing as they are so thin they only have one side and are more prone to leak than not.

If you don't have the Fan Wrenches some parts houses will loan them to you so I have been told. That doesn't hold true in No. Cal. though

I really hope that you have someone to assist you, the job is not hard but it will be difficult with your bum shoulder.

You can get the Thermostat and housing at: DIESELSITE - DIESEL MAINTENANCE and PERFORMANCE
Bob Riley, or Ford but ford will not have the 203*, International will.

Let us know how your getting along, there are many guys here to lend a hand.

Rog

kawa · #4 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe_D

If they would fit I would get one of the water pumps that has a spot to screw in a coolant filter. That's what I'd like to do when mine goes t its up. Anyone know if those will fit our trucks and how much they cost?

Joe, I think that the pump that your referring to has a plug on the driver's side. Most guys use that port for an after market water temp gauge.

Generally the coolant filters are "T'd" into the heater hoses. The hose that comes from the passenger side head is the pressure line and the coolant return will "T" into the hose that dumps into the top of the water pump.

There are diagrams available if you need them.

Rog

WALJON · #5 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:41 AM

[quote=kawa;6144264]ThunderBolt:
Any of the popular auto parts houses have the pumps. They are all made by Carter and a new one with a lifetime warranty will run about $100.00. When I changed mine I just went with Napa Auto Parts all the way hoses and all.

How much were the hoses ROG ?

kawa · #6 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:58 AM

[quote=WALJON;6144272]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kawa

ThunderBolt:
Any of the popular auto parts houses have the pumps. They are all made by Carter and a new one with a lifetime warranty will run about $100.00. When I changed mine I just went with Napa Auto Parts all the way hoses and all.

How much were the hoses ROG ?

It's been awhile and I replaced everything. If it was long, black and had fluid running thru it it got changed. I will just guess $150-$175.00 plus the coolant. I didn't even take the time to shop around.

It needed to be done all of the hoses were OEM from day one and Ford in all of their wisdom allowed that heater hose on the pass. side that comes off of that "T" lay and rub on the frame ans 79K and 10 years latter it blew while I was in the desert with my fiver. Lucky that I had the fiver as I was able to cool it off with hot water, fill it up and made it to a camp ground
where I finally found the leak, Cut the hose and inserted a barbed connector and a couple of clamps and it lasted til' I got home.
Rog

WALJON · #7 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 02:21 AM

Thanks for the info.

Yeah I hear you having problems on the road sucks!

Joe_D · #8 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kawa

Joe, I think that the pump that your referring to has a plug on the driver's side. Most guys use that port for an after market water temp gauge.

Generally the coolant filters are "T'd" into the heater hoses. The hose that comes from the passenger side head is the pressure line and the coolant return will "T" into the hose that dumps into the top of the water pump.

There are diagrams available if you need them.

Rog

No, I'm referring to the pump where you screw the coolant filter right into the pump. I've heard about them but I can't recall if they fit in our trucks. I was hoping someone here would know.

immastrokinnow · #9 (**permalink**) 05-12-2008, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe_D

No, I'm referring to the pump where you screw the coolant filter right into the pump.

he is talking about the international T444e water pump. it has the coolant filter mount right on the pump. i dont know if they would fit our trucks or not.

THUNDERBOLT5150 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 10:55 PM

Wow thanks for the info. see that special wrench info was what i was looking for and that just saved me a lot of trouble. good thing i found that out before i started in on the job.

not sure if i need a 203 stat. the truck runs way cool all the time and i have a hard time gettting heat into the motor as it is. I will check into replacing the housing though.

I'm trying to find Goodyear hoses right now. anybody know a parts place that carries them? the local Kragen does not, i know that for sure. I only run Goodyears and my friend who used to get them for me just retired.

Robbgt · #11 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THUNDERBOLT5150

not sure if i need a 203 stat. the truck runs way cool all the time and i have a hard time gettting heat into the motor as it is. I will check into replacing the housing though.

With the 203º stat the truck will run warmer than a stock 195º. Your old one might have failed in the open position and that why the truck isn't warming up. Basically that change in 8º coolant temp allows the oil in the HPO system to get hotter and the engine runs smoother and more efficiently. Check out the article here...

DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat

-Robb

WALJON · #12 (**permalink**) 05-18-2008, 06:41 AM

Thunderbolt did you get this fixed?

Todd525 · #13 (**permalink**) 05-18-2008, 07:33 AM

Man, trying to work on ANYTHING, even as small as going to the bathroom hurt when I broke my collar bone. I was racing at mid ohio sports car course on vintage motorcycle days, came around the backside in the rain, highsided, broke my collar bone, dislocated my choulder, broke thre ribs, dislocated my wrist, (from what I hear thats kinda rare) and got bumped and bruised ALL over. I couldnt imagaine even pulling out a tool box droor without a collar bone. GOOD LUCK>

THUNDERBOLT5150 · #14 (**permalink**) 05-21-2008, 10:00 PM

ah i didnt know the stock stat was 195. yeah the truck runs way too cool and during winter i sometimes block part of the radiator with cardboard or a shop towel to get some heat in the motor. i will do the 203 swap for sure. havent done the waterpump or hoses yet but i picked up the parts. I was busy working on my bike to get that sold. i will be doing the waterpump this weekend though. I am told i can use an adjustable wrench instead of buying/borrowing a fan wrench anybody know if that will work?

actually shattering my collar bone wasnt too bad compared to the surgery i had to install a titanium plate and 8 screws. that was 10x more painful than the actual injury but yeah i was scared to move for at least a week cuz of all the crunching around that sucker was doing. .

THUNDERBOLT5150 · #15 (**permalink**) 06-25-2008, 09:23 PM

ok i finally got this thing taken care of and it wasnt so bad even with the injury. i was able to use an adjustable wrench instead of a clutch fan tool.. no cutting to the shroud necessary. i replaced all the hoses and installed a flush kit and installed 3 gallons of fresh anti freeze (dang that stuff is $$$$ these days) . i did end up putting a 250* stat in and let me tell you the truck runs the best its ever run!!! Only negative thing about the install was i picked the weekend of a major so cal heat wave to do it. triple digits ugh! i had to set up the easy up shade over the front of the F and it took a few more cold beers to keep me going and get er done. I'd say it took almost 2 hours but that was taking my time to stop and enjoy many beverages and teach my friend some mechanics.

Thanks for the input from everybody. Oh and the waterpump was $197 on the average but I hunted one down for $144. Hoses ran about 80 for Goodyears. i think it runs good enough to pull the toy hauler out on vacation (1500 miler round trip) in august.