So how come I see my syn oil getting dark by 3000 miles, yet don't change it until 10,000 miles and everything is like new at 130,000 miles, huh? The color says it's working as it should but it doesn't need changing. Heck, why not change it every 1,000 miles? Reduce Mideast oil dependency....change oil at 5,000 miles! Do it out of patriotism!
Wow, a whopping 130k miles. At 130k miles I probably could have gone longer. At 335k I don't dare. You said ALL oil will last longer and that's the stupidist thing I've ever heard. It depends too much on what it's in.
3000 vs. 5000 isn't going to mean a thing for our oil dependence. If half of every barrel of oil can be refined into gas, I'd be burning about 20 barrels of oil every 3000 mile oil change. At 5000 miles it would be about 27 barrels. 1.5 gallons out of 840 gallons vs. 1.5 gallons out of 1100 gallons. 1.7% of use vs. 1.3% of use for a whopping reduction of .4% of fuel. How 'bout if I keep my 3000 mile oil changes and agree to shift 100 rpm sooner?
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1990 F-150XLT Lariat Stillon the original engine with no squeaks or rattles at over 300k miles
4.9/M5OD/3.08
16.89@77.09
145 rwhp, 272 rwtq
2001 Lightning #127
13.18@104, no chip, no pulley, no nitrous
Confuscious say "Man who have no use for jackstand have promising career as jackstand".
I have an 89 F150 I6 with 252,000 miles on it. I have always and still do oil changes at 5000 mile intervals. Doesn't smoke or leak or burn oil. Oil and filter always look good, just the normal dark color of used oil. I could actually go much longer between changes because I use synthetic but I just do it at 5000 miles out of habit.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "synthetics" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.
Be careful what synthetic you buy, you can waste your money, there are no hard standards.
I use 15-40 Shell synthetic and I change it once a year, my last truck I drove over 500K and I abused it a lot. I even use the same oil in my mower and weedwacker(4stroke) and it doesn't leak or smoke. If your engine doesn't leak or use oil you will probably be OK.
5 qts of mobile1 fully synthetic 10w30 in it with a mobile 1 filter...planning on changing both at 7000ish...then going with the mobile1 whatever that they claim is good for 15K...then changing filter at 5K and oil at 10K.
i just put regular Valvoline Mercon atf in the transfer and tranny (manual 5)...the stuff that came out was NASTY looking...but it's kind of nasty looking goin in. i figure maybe 20-30K down the road i can switch to synthetic there too if i want...after the new atf has done some cleaning.
I kind of think that the Ford 300 lasts so well because it has a large volume of oil, doesn't lubricate any better, just that the dirt/oil ratio is smaller.
I kind of think that the Ford 300 lasts so well because it has a large volume of oil, doesn't lubricate any better, just that the dirt/oil ratio is smaller.
Yes I agree because v8 have same 6 quarts but don't last same 300 do. Due 8 pistons so oil go bad quick.
I notice if you drive very slow not fast oil will look gold if you drive manic it will become dark quick because I learn that when I see.
Is cooling oil system worth? I thought put one on my truck so it would help cool oil in summer.
Just switched my 300 over to Mystick Syn 15-40 and had to change oil at 1500 because it got dark fast, but second time around oil looks clean at 2000 miles. The synthetic cleans better than conventional oil, so it did a good job of cleaning all of the sludge and junk that has accumulated over the past 28 years. It is now burning/leaking LESS oil than it used to.
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