4.2L Help

[E150]

I need help! I've got a 1998 E250 4.2L V6. I have several problems that might be related, I'm sure I will create more questions than answers, but here goes. I rebuilt this motor 15,000 miles ago. It got a crank kit,pistons/rings,and new cylinder heads. It took around 8,000 miles for the oil consumption to drop to around 1/2 quart per 5,000 miles. It has always had a pinging under heavy load, poor fuel economy (11,5-12,5)under load. I drive a delivery route of 220 miles a day. I start with a heavy load. My 1998 E150 gets a religious 14.5-15.5 with the same load. I developed a water leak between the lower intake,block and left side head. I also have a cam sensor making noise. I removed the upper and lower intake today. I found the EGR passage has a thick wet black soot,the same soot which blackens the fender. I'm obviously running rich. Since I have to change the camshaft sensor too I tried to read as many post on this subject. Can the timing be changed by moving the camshaft sensor? Or will it effect the fuel injector timing only. Since it is installed the same way as a distributor, the position of this sensor must change something. I know there are other sensor I need to check out.As stated at the start I'm sure I'll have more questions to answer. I'll start here and see. Any and all help is appreciated.

[E150]

Since posting the 4.2L help topic I have pulled the camshaft position sensor. The sensor surface is covered with metal fillings,very covered. No OBD2 codes were in memory. What would this do to gas mileage and or timing.

[monckywrench]

Can't help injector timing or gas mileage. I'd replace it and time it electrically. On cars with this sensor I've seen poor running when it wasn't timed properly. I haven't had one die on a truck yet.

How to Line Up Synchronizer Without Special Tool

[E150]

Thanks for the reply monckywrench.I have installed a new sensor and positioner.I'm not sure what you mean by timing it electrically.The Ford manual and other posts here say to install the new positioner at #1 cyl at top dead center on compression positioning the arrow on the positioner tool at 54 degrees to the water pump mounting surface.It does not look possible unless you install the positioner then turn the positioner to 54 degrees.With the motor running what will happen by turning the positioner much like a distributor.Thanks in advance.

[monckywrench]

"With the motor running what will happen by turning the positioner much like a distributor."

It may skip and run rough, which is what our Taurus in the shop did when we tried to eyeball it. I found out about timing them electrically (that's the link in my previous post) after the shop had already had a buddy with the tool do it.
Of course, timing it with a meter is more precise so I'd go with that instead of the tool, but the tool is fine if you like.

Remember, the drive is just like a distributor, so don't point the rotor directly at the spot you want it to arrive at when the drive is inserted and the gears mesh.
You'll figure it out by stabbing it a couple of times. So long as the relationship between stator and rotor is correct when installed, it technically doesn't matter where the connector is facing, but it will only fit within a certain range or you won't be able to install the plug.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/20...acement-3.html

[khadma]

Posting to subscribe.....

I just got the code(today) about the Cam Pos sensor on my 95 Windstar, and I hope I can get my sensor lined up. I will try to use the link information, but I hope one of you can walk me thru the install as needed.

I guess getting it to 26 degrees past TDC will be the toughest part for me. You guys have any tips?

[E150]

Thanks again monckywrench. The link about timing electrically was great.I felt there had to be a way to be more precise about setting the positioner.When I get the manifolds and A/C compressor replaced I'll be ready to fire it up. I'll update you on how it went when I'm done. Thanks for the great info.

[E150]

Finally I've hade time to finish the camshaft sensor and intake leak.The info to set the sensor electrically worked great.It was however very difficult or I should say impossible to set by bridging the sensor to the sensor connector.I ended up using a 12v gell cell battery which worked fine.I have also since purchased an EEC-V 104 pin breakout box for future work.I do not hear any pinging so far but I have not used it on my delivery route with a load.However test drives and filling up showed mileage at 13.9 which is up from 11.9.Another big thanks to Monckeywrench for all your input.

[BrianA]

Just a quick note to say "Thanks". I had virtually know knowledge or experience in this area so I could do little more than sit on the side lines and cheer.

Compliments to both you guys for your teamwork - and hope it will help somebody else one day.

Thanks guys!