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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 02:17 AM
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Oil Filter/drain plug q??

Ok so i changed my oil today, and was noticing and remembering that even though i put my oil filter and pan bolt on nice and tight (not stripped, just snug), when i went to remove them today, i was able to unscrew the filter with my hands (and i had tightened it on there to where it wore off some of frams sure grip where the teeth on my wrence are) and my oil pan bolt was barely tight on. like i barely pushed the wrench and it was loose and streaming oil.

has any one else noticed this problem before?

oh yeah, i did something differen't (cuz it's all i had) i used 3qts of penzoil high mileage dino oil, and 2 qts of penzoil truck/minivan synthetic oil, and an oil filter for a 4l (no leaks!!! it DOES work!!).

so yeah, are they supposed to back themselves out? or should i look into getting a new bolt and who knows what else?

Thanks in advance!
   
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2008, 02:29 AM
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Ford oil filters should only be hand tight and be able to be removed by hand with no tool. always apply a thin film of oil to the gasket and wipe off the machined steel mating surface on the filter mount so there is no dirt there.

run for a day and check for leaks on side of filter. only needs to be tight enough not to leak. to tight and it gets expensive, sledge hammer or cutting torch time

always use a clicker torque wrench on the oil pan bolt, 20 lbs ft. too hard to tell the correct torque with a greasy end or cresent wrench slipping off and taking corners off bolt head.
too lose and engine smokes a quick death
too tight and it's new oil pan time
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Old 05-10-2008, 02:46 AM
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh clicker one eh? dang, that's the lowest setting on my torque wrench. no cresent wrence used, i'm not crude. lol i have a 5/8" impact socket (i DO NOT use an impact gun/ratchet/w/e tho, i'm not jiffy shlube). but thanks!
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats

'89 civic shell "PROJECT EF"
'89 civic donor car
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:28 PM
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DCRB, this is not the first time when mechanics screw filter on and get it loosen when engine was warmed up several times. How much oil was spilled, how many engines failed.....
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:01 PM
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wait... so you're saying this happens alot? the losening bolt/filter would explain my oil loss too. every time i change my oil i notice that there is a drip stain on my filter
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats

'89 civic shell "PROJECT EF"
'89 civic donor car
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:01 PM
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First off, loose the Fram, they are junk filters. Get yourself a Ford Motorcraft FL1A on there.

Second, High millage oil is just a scam, stick with good Castrol GTX, Valvoline, or Motorcraft oil.

As for tightness of filter and bolt, you want them slightly tighter than hand tight. With the warm up and cool down cycles things do get loose over time. I would hate to see you delivering pizza's and dumping your oil miles away from home.

My .02
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Old 05-11-2008, 01:41 AM
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Yeah, it happens sometimes. One advice, change oil, rrive around and retorq filter and bolt till engine is warm. I do not like fram, Man-filters ore motorcraft are better
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:25 PM
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Best way, put oil around filter gasket, tighten as tight by hand as possible. Warm up engine ,allow to cool a bit & then retighten.

Oil pan bolt, make sure threads are clean, tighten to 20 ft lbs, check again after warming the engine while checking the oil filter. use 6 point socket.

ATB Aeroman.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93nighthawk View Post
First off, loose the Fram, they are junk filters. Get yourself a Ford Motorcraft FL1A on there.
For all you Fram die-hards out there, take a Fram filter and cut it open and compare it to an identical filter that is a different brand. No matter what brand you compare it to, the Fram will have less filtering area and when you compare the build quality you will see the difference. The Fram will probably also have cardboard end caps. With few exceptions, (like Ford diesel filters)
you can easily see the better filter.

Fram is paying for all the sponsorships, the Wal-Mart shelf space and the patent for the sandpaper grip.

Yea, I know you've got X millions of miles with your Fram filter. I used to use them too. There's probably nothing wrong with it, just there are better values out there.
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Old 05-14-2008, 01:21 AM
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I have seen Frams fail too. Chances are it will never happen to you, but they do fail. And for vehicles with small oil passages, that can mean certain death, or can at least damage some components. My Mazda runs good, but if you put a Fram or other cheap filter in, it will begin making a lifter noise. You then have to clean the oil with a product like AutoRX, to clear it up. The theory is that the Fram actually sheds fibers which get caught in the small passages.
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Old 05-14-2008, 03:13 AM
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i don't have a problem with using a differen't filter, i've just found that for those hard to reach places, fram's been handy, beacuse (for example) bosche filters have like, 3 rings of threads vs. frams 10. idk, it's what i get from the auto store. i'm always scared to go to ford to get stuff, i don't want the sales guys to talk smack about my aero (especialy since it has "oops i backed into something" damage on both corners on the back of the van....)
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats

'89 civic shell "PROJECT EF"
'89 civic donor car
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:29 AM
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Have you ever checked the the block for the remains of an old filter gasket still clinging on? It has happened to me. It might explain the leak and looseness.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:42 AM
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yeah, this last time actualy when i changed my filter. but sadly, no filter gasket residue, unless the gaskets are now shiny like machined metal.
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats

'89 civic shell "PROJECT EF"
'89 civic donor car
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:32 PM
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Most auto parts stores and Wal-mart sell Motorcraft filters, and their price is only pennies more compared to the base Fram filter.

BTW stay away from the extra-guard brand, teflon is like dumping sand into your engine.

BTW2, why would the parts guy laugh at you for owning an Aero?
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'96 Ford Contour 2.0 I4 MTX 77k mi- Rear Ended 12/22/07
'97 Ford Aerostar AWD 4.0L v6 AT 81kmi
'97 Chevy Lumina 3.1 v6 ATX 135k mi Parents old beater, temp vehicle

Future: 2009/10 Taurus SHO, Loaded

My Car Domain
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93nighthawk View Post
Most auto parts stores and Wal-mart sell Motorcraft filters, and their price is only pennies more compared to the base Fram filter.

BTW stay away from the extra-guard brand, teflon is like dumping sand into your engine.

BTW2, why would the parts guy laugh at you for owning an Aero?
idk cuz i'm 18? i still have SLIGHT identity issues w me and my aero. but i'm getting over it. i'm now proud to admit that i drive it. and i still can PWN honda's IF i ever had to. for a 3l to be able to 90 going up a grade and still accelerating w an auto tranny = skills right there (did that when running late to work and pplz in fast light mistook it for the SLOW lane.)
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats

'89 civic shell "PROJECT EF"
'89 civic donor car
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