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my roof rack fix

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  #1  
Old 05-08-2008, 09:15 PM
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my roof rack fix

While reading other posts most others have just removed their roof rack cross members to get away from the scratching that happens on the roof. I need to have mine so I can use the tule box, but didn't want to spend on getting a new set of racks. So I used 3/4 rubber matting and cut into 3in pcs and placed under each screw. Used full pcs under front and back end caps because they are plastic ends. Added new longer stainless screws and sealed them as I put them in. Even ended up looking decent so I thought I would write it in here for everyone else as an idea of a quick and cheap fix.
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Last edited by wallz; 05-08-2008 at 09:37 PM. Reason: larger photos
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:27 AM
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That plastic is hard? The pictures make it look like foam.

That is a GREAT idea and one that I haven't seen posted...ever! Kudos! Rep points to ya!

I'd like to see a picture of the truck from say...10 to 15 feet away. Can you do that?
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:12 AM
Yesprofit Yesprofit is offline
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I was just going to search the site to find out if I had defective roof racks, as they aren't worth a darn! Does Thule or Yakima have crossbars that can fit into the side rails?
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:19 PM
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I actually used rubber blocks. They were cut from a garden type rubber mat that I found at the local garden store. The rubber is recycled, and is grainy, hard yet soft enough to compress when I screwed it down. The system works well enough to grab the bars and be able to pull myself up to stand onto the rear tire to tie things down or move the cross bars.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:10 AM
AltaEx AltaEx is offline
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Excellent job!!!

The raised height probably reduces the wind turbulence around the cross members too!

In you opnion - if you'd one really had long piece of material would it have have worked as well or would it squish out on one side or the other? (Probably ttough to cut a consistent width.)
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AltaEx View Post
Excellent job!!!

The raised height probably reduces the wind turbulence around the cross members too!

In you opnion - if you'd one really had long piece of material would it have have worked as well or would it squish out on one side or the other? (Probably ttough to cut a consistent width.)
One long pc of material, would 1. be hard to find
2. i wanted the vented look
I actually used a table saw to cut the rubber into same widths, and then a utility knife to cut the end caps to the same shape as rack. There are ten screws across one side, so they are close enough to prevent movement to either side when installing, (I also cheated a little and put double sided tape under each pc so they don't turn during and after install). I had everything precut and drilled on a bench and pre-assembled before going on the roof.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:46 PM
thegorilla thegorilla is offline
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Great solution to low crossbars!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AltaEx View Post
Excellent job!!!
In you opnion - if you'd one really had long piece of material would it have have worked as well or would it squish out on one side or the other? (Probably ttough to cut a consistent width.)
Thanks Wallz! Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have some info to add that took me a bit to figure out:

I did this mod, but with continuous coverage (no table saw to cut the mat), and it works great. Now I can even grab my hand over the side rail to help me stand up on the tire or door sill. I would have preferred to cut segments like Wallz did so water could run out the side, but I was lazy and in a hurry.



Some notes:
The factory screws on mine were M6 by about 20mm of thread and were with T20 heads.
The mat I purchased was a 'horse stall mat' from Tractor Supply for $40 and was 4'x6'x.75". (Rubber Mat, Black, 4 ft. x 6 ft. - For Life Out Here)
I bought M6-40mm stainless Philips pan head screws from Tacoma Screw because I couldn't find any Torx head screws. (M6 (1/4")-1.0 x 40 mm (1-9/16") Metric Pan Hd Phillips Machine Screws ? Type A2 SS - Coarse, 50/PKG)

Construction method:
I cut one 4' section off the end of the mat, and cut a 6' (minus 2.5") from each side, so that the mat factory cut was what showed on the outside of the rail. Mind which direction you place the side rails as I accidentally cut one backwards so the factory mat cut is on the inside of the passenger side rail. I used a snap-off blade utility knife and a Harbor Freight 48" aluminum ruler and a silver sharpie to mark and cut 2.5" strips.
knife (Shop Kobalt 18mm Snap-Off Blade Knife at Lowes.com)
ruler (48 in. Aluminum Ruler)
pen (Shop Sharpie 2-Pack Silver Metallic Fine Point Permanent Markers at Lowes.com)


Now my roof top cargo box mounts easily, my truck is still a hair under 7' tall and may still fit in some parking garages in Seattle.

Thank you for the idea!
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Last edited by thegorilla; 02-01-2016 at 06:47 PM. Reason: formatting
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:29 PM
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Great to see these old ideas still being used. After almost 8 years the rubber is still holding up well with no maintenance of any kind to the system.

I have also been using a full length alum roof top basket on there to the last 3 years that I screw down onto the rails for summer time use, again with no issues.

It is nice to have the openings to wrap around to help strap things down on the roof.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:41 PM
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I took explorer roof racks and extended them. Works perfect
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:44 PM
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Hey Vince, like this ?

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Old 02-02-2016, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalEx4x4
Hey Vince, like this ?

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Ya just like that. If u know a tig welder he can weld them. Think thats the guy did in that pic u posted or he used the original cross bars on the explorer towers. I bought 4 from a junk yard for 40 bucks and use one to extend the other 3 and i hammered down a pipe to slip inside and screwed them in and works great for me. My ex never came with the original cross bars so i couldnt try and see if they would work on the towers
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince79vette View Post
Ya just like that. If u know a tig welder he can weld them. Think thats the guy did in that pic u posted or he used the original cross bars on the explorer towers. I bought 4 from a junk yard for 40 bucks and use one to extend the other 3 and i hammered down a pipe to slip inside and screwed them in and works great for me. My ex never came with the original cross bars so i couldnt try and see if they would work on the towers
What year Explorers work?
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigGreenEx
What year Explorers work?
Im not really sure what tear but its the 95-98 body style ones. I just walked around in a junk yard and looked for a explore and picked the style of towers i liked. There are a bunch of different styles
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