Ok guys,I'm fixing to ask some dumb questions on here so please bear with me. I have an 1974 F-100,just rebuilt 360 (.030 over). 2 bbl carb.2wd.SB. 350 gears in the rear.
1-What the heck does FE stand for?
2-I'm wanting to go back and replace the stock intake with an edelbrock performer and a 600 cfm carb.headers(best brand?) install new dual lines with flowmasters.Is this a good set up?
3-I have been told you get better gas milagg with a 4 bbl. carb and headers if you stay out of the throtle to much.Is this true?
4- Thanks for all your help and sorry for such a long post.-Ken
Bigfoot, I had a 352 that was bored, a 390 crank, high comp pistons, new bronze guieds, an Elderbrock intake with a 4bbl, mucho power, 16 mpg on hwy. 2700 rpm. True duals with glass packs. mmmmm good.
__________________ 66 F250 with utility body, very rusty oxidized red painted over PG&E colors. Ugh? A real restorers dream
90 F250 HD 4x4 - gone to a better place
67F250 4x2, 352 w/ 390 crank and RV cam, NP 435, 4 tube radiator, dual exhaust. Sob! sold it.
1. FE stands for Ford Edsel or Ford Engine depending on who you ask, but I think it is generally agreed as Ford Edsel.
2. Any FE benefits from headers. The performer is really no better than a cast iron intake maniflod except for weight, so spring for the RPM.
3 You can get better milage with a 4 barrel because it has smaller primaries than a 2 barrel.
1)Here's what Ford says in their Muscle Parts Book.
2)Unless you really have a big need the aluminum intake and stock Ford iron intake will give better bottom end preformance and probably better mileage too. Look for an "S" intake. A 600 will work fine.
Do the headers with duals and a crossover pipe first. See how you like it.
It is true you CAN get more MPG with a 4bbl, but odds are you won't. If you are going to balloon foot the loud pedal to stay out of the secondaries, why have a 4bbl? Once you hear the atmosphere collapsing into that thing, you'll want to hear it again and again...
What size tire you running? You might be able to change to a 3.00 gear too.
are you saying run the headers and duals and keep the 2 barrel and stock intake.Man you're saving me some money here.I did'nt know what the stock set up would sound like with the headers and duals alone.Thanks
are you saying run the headers and duals and keep the 2 barrel and stock intake.Man you're saving me some money here.I did'nt know what the stock set up would sound like with the headers and duals alone.Thanks
It will sound the same as it would with a 4 barrel.
thanks guys.Looking for an exhaust shop that will install the headers and dual lines.Talked to one guy today.He did'nt want to mess with the headers,just the lines and mufflers.I'm going to call around on friday see what i can come up with.
Ford used a tube to connect the dual exhaust. Mellows out the tone, gives another path for each exhaust pulse, supposed to help torque. I changed to one on my Mustang and the difference in sound was noticable.
With those tires at 28 inches and the 3.50, you should be turning approx 2730 rpm at 65. Change to a 3.0 and you are turning 2340.
Your engine should pull those revs ok with light to medium loads, but if you are towing or hauling heavy loads, you should probably stay with the 3.50s.
Our '66 Country Squire was close to 4000lbs with a 390 2v, C6 and 3.0 and similar sized tires. It was tolerable off the line.
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66 F250 with utility body, very rusty oxidized red painted over PG&E colors. Ugh? A real restorers dream
