1983 f150 300 6 wih a c6 I had 2 rocker arms that had the rocker arm stud come out a little.(Press in studs) I put washers in and double nutted the rocker arms in place. I put it back together. Then I realized it had run out of gas. I put gas in and after a few minutes, the fuel pump started pumping again, and it started, but ran bad. I decided I had at least one of the two rocker arms too tight, so I pulled the valve cover, and I guessed right. Backed it off and put it back together. Same problem. I messed with the mixture a little and got it a little smoother.
It idles a little rough, but the main thing is that it sounds like a dead miss when I rev the engine. Smooths out when it revs to wherever I have the gas pedal.
I'm thinking either some trash got into the carb when it ran out of gas (It has a filter that looks pretty new, and it isn't clogged) or there's a vacuum hose off somewhere(I've looked everywhere and can't find anything other than on the passenger rear bottom of the car there's something with 3 or 4 vacuum openings, and one was open. I capped it off, and it seems to run a little better. Also, maybe everything might just need to be readjusted since all the valves are opening like they should.
Any ideas? Because all mine suck lol.
Actually, the valves will not operate as they should with your stop-gap fix...and adjusting the carb is usually a fruitless endeavor until all the other systems (including the valves) are operating properly.
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1983 F150 300 I6, Comp Cam 260h and lifter kit, Port/Polished head, Offy DP Manifold, Holley 4360 Economizer 450 cfm, EFI Exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe to 3-Way Cat, generic Turbo Muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a & MSD Blaster 2 Coil, Taylor Spiro Pro Wires, EFI plugs.
What do you mean by stop-gap? All I did was add washers above the rocker washer and below the nut to put the rocker arm back where it should be. It sounded like a diesel motor before I added the washers, and now it's quiet.
It is not a particularly uncommon problem but the washers and multiple nuts will not necessarily stop the studs from coming out further. It is only a very temporary fix.
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1983 F150 300 I6, Comp Cam 260h and lifter kit, Port/Polished head, Offy DP Manifold, Holley 4360 Economizer 450 cfm, EFI Exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe to 3-Way Cat, generic Turbo Muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a & MSD Blaster 2 Coil, Taylor Spiro Pro Wires, EFI plugs.
Well, I just took the washers off and put it back the way it was. It ran better with the washers and double nuts, so there's something else going on. I guess I'll put the washers back. I know it's a temporary fix, but that's all I can do right now. Been off work since Thanksgiving taking care of a sick parent, so times are hard. It's only going to be 2 - 3 weeks. It ran decent before I took the valve cover off the first time, besides sounding like a diesel motor.
I guess I'm looking at it like this...if the studs come out further, then that's less distance I have to pry them out lol.
If only I had a compression tester, a timing light and a genie in a bottle.
I do have one question...if 2 intake valves were barely if at all opening, and it ran decent, would making the valves open correctly throw the mixture, timing or anything else off? Vaccuum problems?
A genie in a bottle would be great...and none of us would need a tool box. A cheap vacuum guage is one of the best investments one can make for diagnostics and tuning. Might try that before going for the compression tester and timing light.
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1983 F150 300 I6, Comp Cam 260h and lifter kit, Port/Polished head, Offy DP Manifold, Holley 4360 Economizer 450 cfm, EFI Exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe to 3-Way Cat, generic Turbo Muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a & MSD Blaster 2 Coil, Taylor Spiro Pro Wires, EFI plugs.
ok I put washers back on the rockers and put it back together. It idles pretty good, but a little too low. When revving, it pops just a little when it first starts to rev. I'm going to mess with the mixture tomorrow and see about getting some new plugs and a vacuum tester. And maybe a rebuild kit for the carb. I'll post as soon as I do a little more work.
Thanks for your help
Go to the parts store and buy 2 new studs, pretty cheap only couple bucks, then take the offending rockers off stack washers on the studd up about 3/4 the way, put the nut back on and tighten down this will pull the stud. Then clean the hole with brakekleen and let it dry.Use loctite stud and bearing locker on the new stud, put a nut on it to prevent thread damage and drive in.try to set it as close as possible to the height of your remaing good rocker studs. Allow the locking compound to dry overnight as a precaution reinstall rockers and away you go. Pining would be a good option if the head were off but with the head still on there is a chance shavings would migrate into the engine and cause problems. With the loctie method there is no chance of this.The loctite probably isn't necessary as most replacement studs are slightly oversize but it is a good precaution .So for less than $20.00 your truck is fixed.
Ok, so I'm ready to remove and replace the two loose rocker studs, but I'm a little concerned that I might crack or cause some kind of damage to the cylinder head, or not be able to get the stud all the way in. THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID. Can anybody make me feel a little more confident about this procedure, give me any pointers or just tell me I'm crazy for even considering it? It's a little bit difficult to cross your fingers with a hammer in your hand lol.
I could just leave the washer/locknut setup i have now on until I can afford to rebuild, but I don't want to be pulling the valve cover off again in a couple of days. There's no way of knowing how long that's going to hold.
Sorry if anyone was offended by the joke above, but if Steve Carell can say it on prime time nbc, it should be ok, right?
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Help! I fixed it, but I broke it.(Kind of long)
