1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Transfer case problems

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Old 05-03-2008, 07:52 PM
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Transfer case problems

Hey guys you all have been so much help maybe you could help me out here. I was driving down the highway from work about an hour drive. about half way home while going down a hill with the cruise set the rpms just fell off to an idle. if i pressed on the excelerator and bring the rpms back it would engage and pull on along. i was able to make it home but as i was trying to back out reverse gear wouldnt work and if it is in gear it wont hold itself from rolling forward. fast forward a day i was driving to my moms house to meet my crew goin out of town i lost all drive in 2wd high. cycled through all gears finally tried the transfer case bingo 4wd low pulled just fine. if i put it in 2wd high and hold the shifter forward it will stay in gear.

ok heres the deal i have read some other threads on here and they have had the same problem but nobody has had a solution besides replacement.and i do not want to do that. is there anybody out there with soe suggestions?? besides the 2x4 jammed between the seat and shift lever mod haha thanks in advance all!!!
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:09 PM
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sounds like the t-case is going south. is the tranny slipping? I had a gasser do that and it was the tranny.
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:35 PM
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I just fixed the same problem on a '95 F250 with a borg warner 1356 transfer case. it had a worn range selector gear and one of the plastic bushings had broken off of the shift fork and the shift fork was worn. you will also need to repair the case where the oil pump rides.
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:36 PM
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i dont think that its the tranny just because it works fine no prob in 4wd low and if i hold it in 2 hi so i really think its the t case. is there a difference between a 1995 4407 t case and a 1997 t case?
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:39 PM
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would it be a 4407 or a 1356? how hard was it to fix all of that?
 
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Old 05-03-2008, 11:01 PM
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should be a 1356, not a 100% positive though. as far as a rebuild not hard at all, you need a torques set and a pair of good snap ring pliers. I replace all the seals when I am in there and inspect all the bearings and gears. i bought my last parts from Riverside gear. good price only problem was I paid for 2 day air shipping and he sent them ground. so my customer wasn't too happy about the delay. waiting for a refund of the extra shipping.
Borg-Warner 1356 Repair Kit with Oil Pump

see if the link works
bart
 
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:47 AM
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helifixer nailed it IMO.
Take a look here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ce-needed.html
 
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:47 PM
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thanks guys i think im going to try and rebuild it se what i can do.
 
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:52 PM
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not hard at all to repair. if in doubt take your digital camera and take step photos. if you click on my link (previous post) the gear in the upper right corner is the gear that goes out, the last one I did the gear was over half gone.
they are dis assembled from the back forward and can be done on the truck but not worth it for just a few more bolts.
the range gear(upper right corner in picture in link of my previous post) on the 1356 has a update that may or may not be complied with (not complied with ) 38 teeth, (complied with ) 31 teeth so you must tear apart and count before ordering parts
 
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