My son-in-law (Jason) has a 2000 F150 Extra Cab V8 (the smaller V8 not sure which engine that is) with a little over 100K. Driving at 80 MPH yesterday it started losing power so he slowed down. At idle it seemed fine so he took off again. He drove another 10 miles with the truck running rough. At one point is started running fine again, then it started and continued running rought. When he got home it was idling rough. This morning it started and he thought he would drive it around the block but it stalled going out the driveway. Now it won't start. The check engine light was NOT on last night (don't know if it was on this morning). It cranks fine. I listened to it idle last it was running pretty rough. I don't know if the plugs have ever been changed or the fuel filter. The one thing that was done recently was we cleaned the EGR ports in the throttle body and replaced the sensor (can't remember what it's called) that senses the EGR flow. That sensor was throwing an error code and it would not pass smog. It's common for that to go out. Once we replaced the part and cleaned the ports it was fine. The ports were probably the problem because changing the part made no difference, but afterwards, cleaning the ports solved it.

I could really use some advice here as Jason is really struggling with his tile business, currently has a job 22 miles away, and only has my daughter's 90 Camry (pos) to get him there.

The truck will be towed to my house today.

Thanks!!!

 

The original problem sounds like a pretty typical misfire. Look for posts by either jbrew or myself for lots of tips on how to diagnose and resolve.

As for the no start condition, you'll need to figure out if you're missing fuel (check fuel pressure), air (crack the throttle), or spark.

Check to see if the CEL comes on at power on.

Check fuses F24 and F30. (don't have my books hand, doing this from memory).

If the vehicle is PATS-equipped, what's the THEFT light doing?

That will get you started.

Steve

 

Thanks, I am on my way home to meet the truck. Will post back...

 

The CEL stays on with the ignition on, but shuts off when the eng. starts. I was able to get it started and limped it into my driveway from the street. It was "surging", RPMS were erratic, not super fast or slow, just running bad. There was white smoke, and it smelled rich.
I connected my ODBII and pulled P1121. The meter described that as "Manufacturer Contrl. Fuel Air Metering"

MAF??

I've worked on a lot of cars, and I know computers and electrical, but I haven't done a lot with newer cars (I'm old - 53).

I've cleaned MAFs on other Ford Trucks (ok SUVs). You think that could be it?

I will be looking at the posts.

Thanks for any replies!!

I am assuming that you wanted me to check the fuses to figure out why it wouldn't start, but since it did, I assume there is no need to check them, right?

 

Since all ODBIIs codes are standardized between makes, after a quick searching, that code means the throttle position sensor is not matching up with the values reported by the MAF. I would look to replace the throttle position sensor first, and if that doesn't do the trick, then replace or clean the MAF.

 

Oh, BTW, I don't think it has an PATS, and the engine is a 4.6L.
I am going to check the connector for the TP since I had to remove that to pull the TB when we cleaned it. I'll clean the MAF while I am at it and if that doesn't help, I'll test the TP. Never done that test before, so any tips would be welcome.

 

Ok, so I find instructions on how to test the TP - which seemed like a logical first step - oh, keep in mind that Jason had told me that BIG-O had recently replaced the Air Filter.

The TP tests out fine, I was a little disappointed, but thought ok, I will clean the MAF. I did and it started and ran fine. So, like Jason had done earlier, I pulled it out into the street for a test drive. Big mistake - as soon as I put it into Drive, it started missing and died.

I disconnected the TP and it started but I couldn't rev it at all. I basically idled back wards uphill, then jambed into drive managed to get the big thing back into the driveway.

So, while it's running it's also making a high pitched scream/whine. Sounded kinda like a bearing going, and it leaks badly from the heater core, so I thought maybe the water pump was going. That kind of made sense too because there would be more load on the engine than there should have been.

So, I start it again in the drive way to see if I can figure out where the whine is coming from, and I happened to look at the rubber boot that's connected to the intake manifold and it's all pulled in, like it's under extreme vacuum!

So, at this point you should know where to look, I know I did. I pulled open the air cleaner, and sure enough, it looked brand new - BUT, the end was wide open, and there was a big black plastic piece that looked like 1/2 of an Ostrich Egg just lying in there (used to be PART of the air cleaner).

I surmised that the plastic piece would rattle around inside, allowing air to flow until it jambed into the opening close to the MAF and sealed it off almost perfectly. Then, when the engine shut off, it would fall back out of the way for the first few seconds, until it jambed in there again.

What a trip, I've seen a lot in my 45 some od years of working on motors, and I never thought I would see anything that would really surprise me again, but this sure did!

Anyway, thanks for the help, but how come YOU didn't figure it out!!! LOL - HEHE....

Thanks!!!!!

 

Geez, that's a first..

Steve

 

Glad you got it fixed!

If I am understanding what happened here correctly, then I have heard of this type of air filter element failure before. What brand fliter was it?

 

What brand filter was it? What is a fliter anyway? DUH!