This may not be applicable here, but... Several years ago on this forum I was sucked into a bad joke. A guy presented a problem. I gave an answer. Another related problem came up and on and on until the thread literally turned in circles. As I recall at least 3 times I brought up the need for him to have a manual. Finally said "I Quit", after I realized he was just dicking around.
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1946 1/2 ton with 305 cu in Y-block
1990 Ranger 4WD
Yes he really does need to step back and read the manual, I believe everyone on the various sites tried to help. He seems to be going in circles and not really listening to the advice that has been given them. And it occured to me that he is reading the advice and relaying it to his dad which may be losing something in the translation??
I don't think he's dicking around because of the way the engine sounded in the videos, though.
On a side note 46Y, hows "my" rear main side seals working for you?? ha I was just up in Oregon visiting the inlaws, was going to show up on your door step on the way home (at about 2 am)... just kidding.
Y-blockhead, the seals are reinstalled and seem fine. Motor just sits on the stand waiting to be installed.
I knew this was going to happen when I took the old motor out. Ended up taking off all the front end to beef up frame. Also reworked running boards and installed different, better seat. While motor is out I am going to try to modify an SBC header set to pass through the rear of the inner fenders. Still looking for an aluminum radiator that can be made to work. Also need to set into frame a bare block with regular type bellhousing and 303 synchronized 3 speed to see if that can be made to work. There are a lot of things that have been building up in my mind over the last 3 years and I want to give them a go.
I was going to say "why didnt you stop by", until I saw the 2Am part. Dont think you would have made it past my 150 lb Pyrennes. He is up all night.
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1946 1/2 ton with 305 cu in Y-block
1990 Ranger 4WD
You say your getting fuel to the carb, is it getting into the carburator? When you pump the throttle does the accelerator pump push fuel into the carb throat? Have you primed the engine by pouring a small amount of fuel into it? Are the plugs wet or dry when you pull them out after trying to start it? Kotzy
Actually we left Roseburg at ~ 10 am and wanted to hit Sacramento, CA in the afternoon to spend the night. Then to home (Redondo beach, CA). So I was just joking about the 2 am part.
Getting to old to drive straight through anymore, (800 + miles).
Sorry about your car. I had same problem awhile back on a motor that sat for some time and took all plugs out put some squirts of 30w oil in each hole. then turn over engine with plugs out to blow oil out, check your plugs and clean if needed put back in then try. Worth a try.
The real sorry thing about this fiasco is that a motor without a known history, was installed without anything being checked out, i.e. compression, bearings, timing chain, etc. Even if he does get it to run, there is a good chance it wont for long.
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1946 1/2 ton with 305 cu in Y-block
1990 Ranger 4WD
It's not a total loss if he comes away learning a lesson from it! Or in this case, several lessons. He reminds me of my older brother, except my brother would have given up by now and left another 1/2 finished project to disintegrate.
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Grossly overestimate the cost at the start so you can tell your wife you "saved" money in the end! - paraphrasing airharley
First off, it's great that a guy your age, 18, is interested in old cars. Lots of us grew up with these cars, but you appreciate it for itself.
'58 is an underappreciated year for Fords, plus it was an economic recession year so all car sales were down. That makes a '58 a good year for a project.
Now about your problem, didn't I read somewhere that you had some pushrods that had dropped into the valley? What happened with that problem? Disconnected pushrods are a symptom of something else wrong, so you need to figure that out too. "Y" blocks have mechanical lifters that must be adjusted. By '56 the "Y" block had interference nuts to set the valve lash. Before '56, and replacement rockers, used a nut and set screw. You just need a feeler gauge to get it set.
I've seen some tired engines that still ran, as long as everything is even close to the proper settings and there is minimal compression.
My best advice is, before you pick up a wrench, read! Get yourself a book on general engine operation so you know what happens and why. [When I was a kid I got ahold of my grampa's '41 Dodge owner's manual, and believe it or not it had some good basic information.] Get the factory service manual for your '58 Ford, it will pay for itself in time saved.
When you get your project on the road again, you might want to write Hemmings Classic Car. They have a feature article on young people with old cars every month.
best $35 i ever spent for my mustang and ranchero.
its full of my own notes as well from the years. stickies for quick reference pages and indexed to what i'm working on.
amazon/ebay is the way to go for availability.
then hit up the aftermarket books for Y parts. Concours, Carpenter etc.
if you got time and printer paper, check my previous post with 58 manual link.
high res for decent printouts, get a 3 hole punch and a binder. you're on your way.
I read in a past e-mail that you had loose or missing pushrods. If this is the same engine, make sure that the pushrods aren't too tight. Pull the rocker covers. Start with the rotor pointing to cyl#1. Check and make sure that you have a little clearance between the pushrods and the rocker arms. (you should be able to "spin" the pushrods with your fingers. Turn the engine so the rotor points to the next cylinder and repeat the process. go through all 8 cylinders this way. This is a mechanical lifter engine- you must have a little clearance for it to run. The correct valve lash is set with the engine at operating temperature. Someone help me out here- I don't have the specs for the valve lash. Hope this fixes it!
Good luck,
Craig at Ojo
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