I have a 81 mustang without motor and tranny. I also have a complete wreck truck with a 400 auto 2wd. I fit the 400 in the stang but the oil pan give me some problem. The oil pan hit the torsion bar in the front. I extend the motor mount with 3X3 tubing to give me extra clrearance for the oil pan but the motor is very high. I also try different pan but still have clearance problem. Maby i should modified the oil pan ? anyone have done this ?
thank you i have found a pan #15-720 that will fit but they said i still have to modified the motor support. I think i'm gonna install the motor without the pan and check the clearance and cut my oil pan to fit and weld.
just because you have the motor laying around doesnt mean the swap is practicle. that motor is heavy and horrible for making power with out major mods. the weight distribution is gonna be horrible.
less than a 460. I have aussie head, straight up timing chain, .030 over pistons and moly top ring, performer 400, 4 barr carb 600 cfm, extrem energy cam, spring to match cam, roller rocker, oil pump, main and cam bearing. I don't have headers now but gonna build set to fit in mustang. I know a guy who fit a 460 in mustang and it's heavier than 400 and the 460 is stock. He said he's gonna give me a hard time when my 400 is gonna be finish but i think is the opposite.
Those are my pics of the swap parts, I am glad I have been helpful.Feel free to ask any questions.I currently have the motor out of the car as I am doing a 460 swap so if you need some other pics of the parts let me know.351c,351m and 400 oil pans all interchange.I started out with a double hump oil pan from a 351m in a 4x4 Bronco, but the double hump oil pans from the 2wd trucks appear to be the same.I just dropped the motor into the car and marked off where the oil pan needed to be notched.I took a junk block I had and installed the oil pump and pick-up because on these motors the pick-up exits the oil pump at the back, right about where the notch is so this limits how much you can notch the pan.Once I knew how much I could notch it I took a piece of tubing about 3" in diameter and cut it in half and fitted it to the notch.It seemed to work out fairly well and was cheap.For the headers I just cut off the tubes where they interferred and re-routed them to fit using pieces from a junk set of headers.In hindsite there are k-member spacers available now which space the body above k-member and give a couple inches more clearance which would help as things are fairly close in the collector area.Since 400's have a taller block than 351c's these might be extra helpful in your case.Also there are tube alignment sleeves sold by companies like Hooker that I would use if I did it again.You may also want to watch the classifieds on the corral, the Network 54 Cleveland forum and Ebay as swap parts come up now a lot more frequently than they used to.
I think a 400 in a Mustang would rock!!! Make it work as cheaply as possible... What is this 'torsion bar' in the Mustang? Is that like a sway bar?
I don't know the 80's Mustangs at all...
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Mark in FL
restoretherepublic.com
first pic is my 400 test fit into my tbird engine bay. the second pic where the black bar goes at the bottom, is the second bar that goes across...not sure if this is the bar mustang81 is talking about. I plan on using an AJE universal K-member for my car for clearance, but that project has been temporarily changed. I'm just putting the 351W in for the time being. And yes, it would rock!! think of the torque as soon as you hit the gas pedal.
The torsion bar i'm talking about is in reality the standard front stabilizer bar. This bar is bolt on the frame with rubber and clip then attach to the stabilizer bar link on each end. It's supporting the lower "A" arm assy. I would like to post some pics but i don't know how.
You might be able to use the sway bar or just the brackets and links from another foxbody.I found a mid-size LTD or Marquis wagon at the wreckers and the sway bar brackets were about 1 1/2" longer than the regular fox brackets which spaced it down a bit.
I have a few option. I have another mustang for parts, not the same year, the motor 6 cyl. 4 speed. If i extend the one i have by cutting and welding with the 2, i can make 1. I dont know if it's make-able or not to weld on the stabilizer bar or material used.
1 1/2" more closer to the ground is good but i need 3 ". i already fit the 400 in with 3"X3" tubing bolt on the frame and the motor support bolt on the tubing.The motor is to high and bring my center of gravity to high and i can put my hood unless i make big hole.
i have a complete wreck 351m to try to fit and cut the oil pan the way you did. The transmission is the big block pattern but have to modify the trans support and extend my driving shaft by 2 1/2". I have the exhaust manifold on the old 351m and 3 feet of exhaust pipe on each end and everything fit. The 400 is in my garage since last october for a complete rebuild.
I haven't fit the C6 in mine, but I've read that a van C6 trans mount works on the fox body. However, with your engine up high, it may not work. FWIW, the 351M/400 block isn't any wider than the 302/351W block, except at the heads, so figuratively the 400 should fit into the original spot. It's the motor mounts that are a pita. My .02
What oil pan are you using?When I used the double hump one I didn't have any issues with the sway bar.Some of the late 70's T-birds and Rancheros used a C-4 transmission behind a 351m.If you find one of those you should be able to use a stock length driveshaft and mount.They are fairly rare though,I kept an eye out at the local wreckers for about a year until I found one.
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302 to 400 in mustang
