Would be mechanic asking for guidance on a '72 F-350 resurection
My father cared more about his cars than his family (sincere in every way possible). As part of this we were forbidden to work on/ try and fix car problems ourselves, and thus grew up knowing next to nothing about cars.
I have an El Dorado RV, with a 1972 Ford F-350 as its base. It has not been run in over 5+ years. The battery is dead, and will be replaced. Short of saying "how do I fix this", I am asking for what I need do, to safely get it running again, so that I may be able to get it somewhere where a professional can go over it, to asses any problems, etc.. I have not had any local mobile mechanics who ever show up, follow through, or call back, so I am learning to do it myself.
Aside from sitting, there appears no real problem with the truck itself. It has less than 50k on the engine (yes, that is correct.) I have ordered a copy of the Ford shop manuals for this model year, in hopes of some guidance.
I am quit adept with tools, and problem solving, and have worked on most of the RV over the years, save the automotive part. I would appreciate any input, suggestions or guidance.
First I would pull the spark plugs and check for signs of rust if you find lots of rust I wouldn't waste your time, if rust free put new plugs in and check the plug wires cap and rotor replace as necissary. Next the fuel system hopefully the tank has a drain, drain it out and rinse it good with some fresh gas and put a couple or five gallons in. Next I would replace all the rubber fuel lines and fuel filter (buy an extra or two you may need them) check out the carb if it is a two barrel take the top off and clean the inside out with carb cleaner if it is a four barrel I would leave it alone they are more complicated. Change the oil and filter and check the air filter, replace if needed. I would change the coolant and hoses, and all belts. Look the wiring over pretty good to make sure the mice haven't gotten it, nothing will ruin a camping trip like an electrical fire. Now put your new battery in and give her whirl. Always keep an eye out for fuel leaks especially in the carb if you have a four barrel. Well thats about what I do when I bring an old motor back to life I have done it several times.
-Johnboy
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-1979 F-250 4X4 400 4spd
-1989 Bronco 300six swapped in ZF 5spd
-1967 Mercury Comet Sports Coupe
Find a manual and just do some reading, poke around and familiarize yourself with the major components. Likely it will start/run with minimal work, but your best bet to have a failsafe trip is to replace most of the parts John mentioned. Nothing worse then a broken fan belt in the middle of nowhere and no parts store! Your best bet is to have a few "extra's" (belt, filter, couple qts oil) in storage compartment.
Have fun with it, sounds like a great ol outfit.
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1967 F100 352/4spd
1969 F100 428CJ/4 spd
and a few hot rod FORD cars too
64 Galaxie with blown 390 4 spd
64 Galaxie wagon with 428 5 spd 2006 UMTR POWERSHIFT
POINTS CHAMPION
While you have the sparkplugs out, squirt about a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders for lubrication. An oil can with pump handle works good for this. Maybe prime the carb a little before initial startup.
If all that gets the engine running again, then keep moving on and after you get the engine warmed up to operating temperature, run the trannny through the gears with the brake on and make sure it works. After it's all warmed up good and the transmission engages you should also change the trans fluid and filter..
Might also want to give some thought to changing the brake fluid.... Just open the bleeders at the wheels and let it drain. Refill with new fluid and bleed the brakes. Brake fluid attracts moisture and after the vehicle has sat for so long the brake fluid is cruddy in the lines.....
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Anybody can restore a classic, takes a man to cut one up......
I would rebuild the wheel cylinders before it moved. Everytime I have brought out a car that has been sitting a few years you end up with fluid all over the brake shoes in a week or so. Repack the front wheel bearings also while the drum is off.
It is a bit daunting, to one who has little knowledge of what he is getting in to, but the response and input I have gotten here make me feel as though it is not an insurmountable task, just will take a bit more time than things I am used to.
Given the age, and length of sitting, what oil should I run down the spark plug holes? So far as I know, its always used 10w-40; should that change, given the age/condition?
As long as it ran when it was parked, doing everything thats been posted should bring her back to life. My truck sat for 4 years and all that was required to get it home was fresh gas and a new battery. I would double stress the rubber part of the fuel lines. They may seem alright now, but they WILL come back to bite you later.
Make sure and check the master cylinder when you change out the brake fluid. I ended up just putting a new one on mine, it had at least an inch of crud in the bottom of the reservoir.
Good Luck!
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Darin K.
1971 F100 351W/C4
2006 Monte Carlo LT
Nebraska Chapter FTE
Been there and done some of what I hear people always talk about.
I got the Ford shop manuals in the mail, and have been looking them over and have started to put together a preliminary parts order for belts, wires, other rubber, etc.. Won't get time to really focus on the truck for a couple weeks (out of town, etc.).
One question: is there any real difference when buying batteries, or am I fine buying from Costco?
Thanks again. I'm sure I shall return with endless question.
Well, had a spare moment, and sat down with a copy of my rating plate, and the shop manuals, to see what I could figure out, but I am somewhat at a loss to figure out what engine I have, and therefore what part of the manual to read. Can anyone offer some clarity from this:
I got the Ford shop manuals in the mail, and have been looking them over and have started to put together a preliminary parts order for belts, wires, other rubber, etc.. Won't get time to really focus on the truck for a couple weeks (out of town, etc.).
One question: is there any real difference when buying batteries, or am I fine buying from Costco?
Thanks again. I'm sure I shall return with endless question.
Best.
Ray~
Costco's batteries are made by Johnson Controls which also builds DieHard, Interstate, Wal-Mart Everstart, Etc. They are fine.
Can anyone assist me on the rating plate? I get that it is a F-374, but I am getting hung there in the Ford ID part of my manuals, as I can't seem to pin that down reliably to an engine type.
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