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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by archangel View Post
That same 6 cylinder Cummins engine was offered in the larger Ford F700 series trucks, so it can be here.

If I could, (money and time both available) when the engine died, I'd swap the smaller Cummins 4 cylinder in.

Anyone know what price range the 4 cylinder Cummins going for?
I know it was in a lot of the smaller bread delivery, and dry cargo trucks.

But GOD, why bother with all the work, just buy a Diesel!
The 7.3 weighs something like 1100 lbs so you will need to swap front springs also!
Around here anyway the 4B motors are outrageously expensive. One guy wanted $8,000 dollars for one, I'll bet he still has it or he sold it for less. I have seen the '89-'93 (Bosch rotory IP) motors for $1500 but most are around $2000-2500.
One advantage the 4 popper has is less length (just as tall) so if you want to put one in a Chebie for instance you can buy a Frito-Lay truck that had one backed by a TH400 and bolt it to about any Chevy trans. with the right TQ. Conv. The CHEAPEST one I ever saw was $2500 and it sold REAL fast.
Seeing as how all of these motors (Cummins and I.H./Navistar) have been used in commercial applications you could find all of the right parts to bolt one to an I.H. pattern tranny.
They do get good mileage and if you put a turbo on them out of a Dodge P/U (bigger) they really hum with a few hop-ups.
That brings up another bit of trivia: All Cummins equiped Dodges were turboed, but not all 3 (yes there WAS a 3-Cyl. but not anymore),4 and 6 B-Ser. motors are turboed. So watch out if you're looking for a donor.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
Around here anyway the 4B motors are outrageously expensive. One guiy wanted $8,000 dollars for one, I'll bet he still has it or he sold it for less. I have seen the '89-'93 (Bosch rotory IP) motors for $1500 but most are around $2000-2500.
One advantage the 4 popper has is less length (just as tall) so if you want to put one in a Chebie for instance you can buy a Frito-Lay truck that had one backed by a TH400 and bolt it to about any Chevy trans. with the right TQ. Conv. The CHEAPEST one I ever saw was $2500 and it sold REAL fast.
Seeing as how all of these motors (Cummins and I.H./Navistar) have been used in commercial applications you could find all of the right parts to bolt one to an I.H. pattern tranny.
They do get good mileage and if you put a turbo on them out of a Dodge P/U (bigger) they really hum with a few hop-ups.
That brings up another bit of trivia: All Cummins equiped Dodges were turboed, but not all 3 (yes there WAS a 3-Cyl. but not anymore),4 and 6 B-Ser. motors are turboed. So watch out if you're looking for a donor.
a three cyl.i want one just to have in the shop
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by xgatorx1976 View Post
how can anyone talk about a cumapart on this site.
Bad feelings towards Cummins? You musta got spanked by one .

Actually had my truck out this weekend. And my tired old 7.3 put a hurtin' on a CRD 5.9. But only because the guy didn't know how to drive. I guess

I was sitting at a light, first in line in the slow lane. Newer Dodge ex cab longbed pulls up next to me. I was checking it out, but not paying much attention until he starts pumping the throttle. When the light turned, I eased off like normal as he left tire marks to pull away from me. I'm thinking, what is this guy doing?. But I caught something. He started out in second gear, and the shift to third was sooooooooo slooooooooowwwww. I'm thinking maybe, what have I got to lose. So I caught up to him at the next light. Stayed about a bumper behind as he started the revving ritual again. I timed the light and left hard just as it turned green. He saw this and immediately spun the tires. I shifted to 3rd at 2800. I was already a length ahead of him when he shifted. I hit
4th and settled down at 45 as he passed me. Did this a couple more times until he turned off. If he would have figured out to start in 3rd or roll out and short shift to 3rd, I wouldn't have had a chance.

Jason
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'08 Dodge 2500 MegaCab 4wd, 6.7 Cummins, 6 spd auto, DPF & EGR fell off
'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
'77 F150 4wd 351M, 435, 205
'79 F150 4wd lwb 400, 435, 205

Missing your Prius, check under my tires...
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 1994diesel View Post
lol, i wasnt questioning cummins reliablity, just the headaches it would cause to put in compared to putn in a 7.3, like night and day


btw, hows the '94 turbo treatn u? i remember u telln me about it, did you test what i told you, im just curious? lol
THERE IS NO QUESTION THE CUMMINS IS WAY HARDER TO SWAP IN- it's not even close, just in case I wasn't clear about that. I just think there is a good chance you'll never have to take it back out.

I should be picking up the '94 this weekend, the owner is finally back from Wisconsin. I FULLY EXPECT it will treat me just fine! Got my fingers crossed that it's as good as it looks. If I can figure it out with my almost non-existant computer abilities I'll post some pictures when I pick it up.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RCrawler View Post
Bad feelings towards Cummins? You musta got spanked by one .

Actually had my truck out this weekend. And my tired old 7.3 put a hurtin' on a CRD 5.9. But only because the guy didn't know how to drive. I guess

I was sitting at a light, first in line in the slow lane. Newer Dodge ex cab longbed pulls up next to me. I was checking it out, but not paying much attention until he starts pumping the throttle. When the light turned, I eased off like normal as he left tire marks to pull away from me. I'm thinking, what is this guy doing?. But I caught something. He started out in second gear, and the shift to third was sooooooooo slooooooooowwwww. I'm thinking maybe, what have I got to lose. So I caught up to him at the next light. Stayed about a bumper behind as he started the revving ritual again. I timed the light and left hard just as it turned green. He saw this and immediately spun the tires. I shifted to 3rd at 2800. I was already a length ahead of him when he shifted. I hit
4th and settled down at 45 as he passed me. Did this a couple more times until he turned off. If he would have figured out to start in 3rd or roll out and short shift to 3rd, I wouldn't have had a chance.

Jason
ya think he learned any thing
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by stevilknevil View Post
i just like the mechanical pump aspect of this section
I like mechanical diesels period. I just can't get into the electronic diesels which is WIERD because I LOVE fuel injection.
In my head I put a higher expectation of reliability and simplicity on diesel motors, maybe I have a mental disorder but I can't afford therapy, I'm to busy buying/working on trucks!
If it's a mechanical diesel and it doesn't run it's almost got to be a fuel or air problem. I like that there's virtually no electricity involved.
I had a guy in my shop the other day I told that to, and he actually argued with me that diesels had to have spark plugs or the engine wouldn't fire. We'd still be arguing if another customer hadn't overheard and set him straight.
This guy is about 75 or so and was in maintenence at Teledyne-Wah Chang.
I couldn't believe it!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
THERE IS NO QUESTION THE CUMMINS IS WAY HARDER TO SWAP IN- it's not even close, just in case I wasn't clear about that. I just think there is a good chance you'll never have to take it back out.
There are numerous companies offering kits and all the components to swap a Cummins into a Ford. There are guys buying new trucks, and immediately swapping the PSD out for a Cummins. From what I've researched, the swap isn't that bad. And the price is reasonable, depending on what drivetrain options you choose.
I'm stuck between a '98-02 24V, or a later 12V. I think it's going to come down to what I can find for a donor truck/ engine.

Jason
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'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
'77 F150 4wd 351M, 435, 205
'79 F150 4wd lwb 400, 435, 205

Missing your Prius, check under my tires...
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by stevilknevil View Post
ya think he learned any thing
Yeah, he went out and bought a dozen "boxes" and stacked them all together on the computer because the companies all told him it would work. Now his dash is lit-up like a Christmas Tree with idiot lights and fault codes. OH,and it won't hardly run now so he's racing against "tuner cars" hoping someone can straighten out his electonic "wonder". But he still can't drive.

Did I mention I don't like electronic controlled diesels before?
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
Yeah, he went out and bought a dozen "boxes" and stacked them all together on the computer because the companies all told him it would work. Now his dash is lit-up like a Christmas Tree with idiot lights and fault codes. OH,and it won't hardly run now so he's racing against "tuner cars" hoping someone can straighten out his electonic "wonder". But he still can't drive.

Did I mention I don't like electronic controlled diesels before?
oh,you've met my cousin i take it.that boob trashed a '03 with boxes and crap.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:17 AM
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There are numerous companies offering kits and all the components to swap a Cummins into a Ford. There are guys buying new trucks, and immediately swapping the PSD out for a Cummins. From what I've researched, the swap isn't that bad. And the price is reasonable, depending on what drivetrain options you choose.
I'm stuck between a '98-02 24V, or a later 12V. I think it's going to come down to what I can find for a donor truck/ engine.

Jason

Those swap parts are expensive by MY standards.
I would go with the '94-'98.5 donor, no (or less) electronics to wory about.
The intercooled ('91.5-'93) are even simpler and lighter (I.P. is not nearly as big or heavy, but also not as good), cheaper donor, and the Bosch rotory I.P. is "tunable" with out any extra parts.
If your goal is BIG power the Bosch P7100 equipped '94-'98.5 is the way to go.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
Those swap parts are expensive by MY standards.
I would go with the '94-'98.5 donor, no (or less) electronics to wory about.
The intercooled ('91.5-'93) are even simpler and lighter (I.P. is not nearly as big or heavy, but also not as good), cheaper donor, and the Bosch rotory I.P. is "tunable" with out any extra parts.
If your goal is BIG power the Bosch P7100 equipped '94-'98.5 is the way to go.
will the newer pumps bolt on to the older engines?
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
Yeah, he went out and bought a dozen "boxes" and stacked them all together on the computer because the companies all told him it would work. Now his dash is lit-up like a Christmas Tree with idiot lights and fault codes. OH,and it won't hardly run now so he's racing against "tuner cars" hoping someone can straighten out his electonic "wonder". But he still can't drive.

Did I mention I don't like electronic controlled diesels before?
It's ok D/C. Electronics are your friends. I don't want to alarm you, but that thing your typing on is not a typewriter with a tv attached to it. Its a computer. An electronic device useful for playing solitaire and minesweeper at work and for communicatiing with your buddies around the world (thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet).

Electronic engines aren't black magic. You just carry different spare parts in your tool box. Some of them happen to be a bit more expensive than you're used to. A failure in an electronic diesel will no more likely leave you stranded in the eastern Oregon desert than a electronic gas engine, or a mechanical diesel will.

I've heard of a lot of piggybacking chips and systems for more power and I don't understand why myself. Seems like the power thing is just a penile extension for a lot of these guys. They don't really have the use for it, other than bragging rights. I couldn't justify dropping $40-60K on a new truck with all the power you would ever need and then start bolting or plugging extra stuff on it to make it even faster. Risking burning the engine down or voiding the warranty. I guess I couldn't justify spending that much on a truck in the first place.

Jason
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'08 Dodge 2500 MegaCab 4wd, 6.7 Cummins, 6 spd auto, DPF & EGR fell off
'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
'77 F150 4wd 351M, 435, 205
'79 F150 4wd lwb 400, 435, 205

Missing your Prius, check under my tires...
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RCrawler View Post
It's ok D/C. Electronics are your friends. I don't want to alarm you, but that thing your typing on is not a typewriter with a tv attached to it. Its a computer. An electronic device useful for playing solitaire and minesweeper at work and for communicatiing with your buddies around the world (thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet).

Electronic engines aren't black magic. You just carry different spare parts in your tool box. Some of them happen to be a bit more expensive than you're used to. A failure in an electronic diesel will no more likely leave you stranded in the eastern Oregon desert than a electronic gas engine, or a mechanical diesel will.

I've heard of a lot of piggybacking chips and systems for more power and I don't understand why myself. Seems like the power thing is just a penile extension for a lot of these guys. They don't really have the use for it, other than bragging rights. I couldn't justify dropping $40-60K on a new truck with all the power you would ever need and then start bolting or plugging extra stuff on it to make it even faster. Risking burning the engine down or voiding the warranty. I guess I couldn't justify spending that much on a truck in the first place.

Jason
thank you al(manbearpig)gore.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:41 AM
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I don't know much about my computer either, I was dragged (drug--whatever) kicking and screaming into the internet/computer world.
And if it breaks I have to pay someone else to fix it.
If my truck was only as reliable as this thing I'd shoot it!
I DO think the electronic diesels are more likely to leave you stranded as they have all of the "regular" parts AND the electronic parts AND they are more suseptable to heat and vibration. SIMPLICITY breeds RELIABILITY.

I get your point but I haven't changed my mind.......yet.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by stevilknevil View Post
will the newer pumps bolt on to the older engines?
You can put the P7100 on the older rotory motors but it isn't real easy, not impossible. You have to change the cam and the whole front timing cover assembly. Maybe the lift pump too, I'm not sure.
The best set-up is the P7100 pump on a 24V motor but THAT IS A REAL PAIN as the throttle is computer controlled (drive by wire) on the 24V. One guy that did this uses a hand throttle rather than adapt a foot throttle as he only drag races the truck. There are other problems also but a 12V can make so much reliable power it would be a waste of time unless you're a "racer" which I most assuredly am NOT. The old rotory pump suits me fine even if the Bosch P7100 is "better".
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