With the third row seat, removing the large panel would be a major PITA anyway. As mentioned above, the panel can come back plenty far enough to replace both if needed.

 

Do you have any info on taking the trim pieces off to get at the actuator? thanks

 

With it still fresh in my mind....

Unless you're Houdini, you're not replacing the blend door actuator without removing a couple panels. Here's how I did it.
Tools: 17mm (or 11/16") socket and a T50 Torx bit on a 3/8" drive and a 4 or 6" extension if available, 8mm (or 5/16") wrench and socket on 1/4" drive and a 4 or 6" extension, small flat screwdriver ( a kitchen knife might actually be better suited for the task you'll be using it for).

On the D pillar, remove the 3rd row seat belt with the T50 bit. There is a cover over the bolt that is hinged at the top, just wiggle the tabs off of each side. Remove the center trim that going across the hatch by gently tugging down. Now do the same with the D pillar trim by tugging it towards the center of the hatchway.
On the C pillar, lower the 2nd row seatbelt all the way down. Gently pry the cover off that's at the top of the slot, trying not to mar the panel or the plug. This is where the kitchen knife might work better, being thinner. Unscrew the bolt with the 5/16" (or 8mm) socket on an extension. The bolts is captured so it won't come out of the hole or fall into the abyss. Remove the seatbelt with the 17mm (or 11/16") socket and extension. The cover is similar to the one on the D pillar belt. Don't drop the nut, as conveniently there is a hole right under it that is a black hole and the nut isn't your ordinary hardware variety.
Gently tug the panel away from the body, starting at the top. There is a hook at the bottom that hooks over the ledge on the big grey (or tan) panel next to the side window glass.
Remove the big tray on top of the panel, then reach in towards the front and pop the cupholder out. Now gently tug the big panel away from the body. Pay special attention to the 3 tabs in back, near the power panel and seat switches, if equipped. It won't come all the way off, but that's okay, you just need it out enough to get to the blend door actuator.
By using your forearms, you can hold the panel away so that you can use the socket on the 3 bolts holding the actuator to the blower housing. Try not to drop them.
The floor/ceiling selector is a little easier. Use the wrench or socket to remove the 3 bolts and replace. The panel doesn't need to be pulled out nearly as far as for the blend door, but it helps if it's out a little bit I found.
For the blend door, I found it eaier to fit if I turned the ignition on, set he the heat control to about 1/4-3/8 of the way warm, then inserted the D shaped shaft. The floor/ceiling actuator popped right into place.
Assembly is the reverse, paying attention to the 3 tabs at the back of the big panel, the hook on the C pillar panel and the toothed slot on the D pillar panel, next to the side window glass. The trim that goes across the top of the hatch just pops into place with the hooks towards the back. Line up the tabs for the panels and pop them into place with your palm.

 

The instructions are great and I thank you! The only thing I need now is to somehow get a diagram of the trim that tells me what the D pillar and the other trim pieces are that you mentioned. You must have one since you are calling the trim by name, can you tell me where to find it, I haven't had any luck with this. Thanks again.

 

The D pillar is the fourth pillar back. Windshield is A, between the doors is B, behind the rear door is C and the way back is D.

 

No diagram, sorry. Just go do it.

 

So, I took the time to remove the panel and check both actuators out for a few reasons...

I came to the conclusion that it is really a poor design in the electrical circuit, and the fact that the motors are driven really hard in the stops/extreme positions that cause the plastic gears to fail as they are the weakest point in the chain - not the gears themselves. If the gears were metal, something else could fail...

I noticed that the top actuator that controls where the air comes out has a lot of torque when installing.

Sure enough the blend/temperature actuator has the same thing.

Now, if there were switches in there to stop the motor at the extreme positions instead of continuing to torque the motors - two things:

- they would be less prone to failing
- they would cost a lot more...

So, I'd have to go back in the records on mine, but it has 125K on the odo and these could very well be the originals.

My temperature actuator needs to be changes.

It did not click at first and then when I put it back in, it started working... Went hot and then cold a few times, then it started clicking...

SO, I'll put a new one in.

I did notice that one of the heater hoses is just starting to leak a little at the heater core - it is very slight and the coolant is drying up and hardening... So, it could be a good thing that I had to end up taking the panel off.

Removing the panel is not really that hard if you have any experience in removing interior panels.

One last thing/recommendation - one way to relieve the stress on the blend/temperature actuator is to keep the temperature selected a tad off full hot or full cold...

I think I'll do a little test before putting the screws in on mine to see exactly where the torque is removed from the actuator...

 

OK, so mine lasted a whopping two months. Acted up on a trip, so I will be replacing. I ended up buying at Advance...

I did do a calibration, and max cold or hot was one mark away on the dial - basically about 1/8 of a turn.

On this recent trip, could not get the rear A/C to go full cold. Sure enough, by the end of the trip, the clicking started...

 

[quote=Jeckler;9990719]With it still fresh in my mind....

Unless you're Houdini, you're not replacing the blend door actuator without removing a couple panels. [quote]

Well, not really, but sort of Houdini like...

The small screws are 8mm that hold the blend door actuator in. There are 4 of them.

When I removed the recently installed actuator because it failed within 2 months (bought from Autozone) was determined to save a few steps and as previously posted, if you remove both the cupholder and the rectangular tray there is enough room to get in there if you pull out the panel a little bit from the quarter panel (it pulls out about 2 inches).

What helps are straight gearwrench ratcheting box end wrenches. That and the fact that I had already removed them once, they were easy to turn.

There is one screw towards the bottom of the actuator that is the hardest to reach.

SO now I ponder... Do I order a FORD part, or just throw this one in again.

I think put this one in, try to prevent the temp select ***** from going to the ends and see what happens...

 

Hey all,
I'm trying to locate the gears in the temp/blender actuator. The salvage yards here do not have any expeditions for me to get parts off. If anyone has any extras or knows where I can purchase just the gears will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks

 

Not worth running around trying to find... You can get the actuator for as low as around 35 with a coupon at advance or some other places... Gas, mileage, and time screwing around with junkyards looking for an actuator adds up.

I also found that some Ford dealers have it for around 50 plus shipping.

 

So both of my rear doors were bad. One had stripped gears and one had a bad motor.

I went to Advanced Auto parts, and to my surprise they had the part (Dorman 604-202). I bought 2 of them thinking that they could be both used, but this particular part has the variable "sensors" in it so that it can turn just part of the way depending on your temperature ****. The one that directs air flow is either all the way open and all the way closed. I actually rebuilt the top one using the gears from the other box, and it is currently working. I would like to purchase the correct part, and here is what I found:

1L2Z19E616BA = Air conditioner and heater - Auxiliary ac and heater unit - Actuator - Air dist door Air dist door 2003 - 2006

YL5Z19E616AA = Air conditioner and heater - Auxiliary ac and heater unit - Actuator - Temp blend door Temp blend door 2003 - 2006

The temp blend door is the one I replaced successfully and all is ok. The one that I am having a hard time finding is the "Air Dist door". I did some cross referencing on the internet, and found that part number referenced Dorman 604-213. That won't work on my truck, since I don't have the cross shaped insert, it is the regular D shaped insert.

Any tips on the correct Dorman part number?

 

i have replace the rear blend door actuator it worked when i put it in but 5 hours later i am back to same place, with the thumping noise, any ideas?

 

Chime and in and tell me your experience with the Dorman unit. FORD OEM $63. Dorman on Amazon $23.

I am leaning towards the Dorman due to the fact we do not have many people in the back row.

Thanks, Scott

 

Dorman = JUNK for Blend Door. Mine lasted a few days of use... Went back to Autozone and they gave me a replacement sure, but it will fail if you set the temperatures to the extreme as I explained above...

SO:

Ford - probably better and may last a few years... Why? See the same above explanation as to what is the root cause of this problem.

IT IS NOT WEAK GEARS - like many people claim. IF the gears were made of brass or steel - then something else in the assembly would likely break. The root cause is no feedback to shut off power to the motor when the extreme position is reached.