I suspect my valve seals being bad, because of the oil it burns. Hopefully its them and not the rings. When I look for the seals they have two different types. one set says low oil shield and the other is high oil shield. What set do I need?
Also this can be done with the heads on correct? but how do you keep the valves from dropping in the engine? Ive heard about it being able to be done without pulling them but don't know the concept in which it can be done.
Thanks PLC. When I look online at partsamerica.com they show a set that says long oil shield then the other says short. Here is a description from the site of both.
If the truck is running, you can test for blow-by of the rings by taking the oil-filler cap off and feeling if any air comes out. no air = good rings, blowing oil and air = bad rings or other such problems. Someone on the forum recommended Auto-RX (sold directly from the company) to slowly break loose sludge/soot and free stuck parts. I think it he said auto-rx. just a thought.
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1985 F250 Ext Cab 4x4 C6 auto, 3.73:1 final, 198000 miles, unknown mileage on the engine, 14mpg (city).
I searched NAPA also they have 2 types of seals long and short........ both fits the engine you have. Has me baffled too........
Note ...unless your prepared to get a manometer and test the engine blowby at 3000 rpm+ don't even worry about it. The CDR valve takes care of blowby.... as long as the CDR is working things are fine in my opinion.
Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in.
There are two versions of oil seal, the earlier one was made to allow a small amount of oil to leak past the seals to lube the guides. This means that a healthy 6.9 can always use a SMALL amount of oil. The later 7.3 engine had different seals that were intended to eliminate the oil consumption. Great idea, right? well the result was increaced valve guide wear, and often premature failure.
I say go for the one that allows slight oil consumption. My guess is that "high oil shield" is the one that seals perfectly, and "low oil shield" is the one that offers better lube for the guides. Better check to make sure though.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
David85: "Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in."
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above. CRAP-the more I read the less I know!
Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
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1985 F250 Ext Cab 4x4 C6 auto, 3.73:1 final, 198000 miles, unknown mileage on the engine, 14mpg (city).
David85: "Mine always had blowby comming out the filler cap, Its a little less now that there are a few miles on the fresh rebuild but not my much. The chevy 6.5s seem to have a more powerful vacuum on the intake (possibly via intake restriction) to pull the gasses in further, but unless you feel real pressure under your hand, its normal so don't worry about that. After 1000 RPM, it gets pulled back in."
Great, now I'm worried about my truck because it has NO blowby at any speed, idle or above. CRAP-the more I read the less I know!
Just trying to help eliminate possible places of oil consumption. I would assume rings would be a prime place to look also. I guess a leakdown test with a compression gauge is the only way to test them if the blowby method is bunk.
If your rings are worn, you will have blowby. I wouldn't sweat it too much, my engine had a fair amount of blowby even with the lowest compression at 410 PSI but still ran great. The only reason I rebuilt it was because of crappy glow plugs ended up damaging one of the pistons. I did notice that there is more vapor comming out of the filler neck when the engine is nice and hot after a long day of running. But thats not really blowby. Start worrying if you feel actual pressure or pulsing on your palm when you cover the filler neck with your hand.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
At over 20 to 1 compression ratio, you will have a bit of blow by even with new rings.
A small amount of blow by will be sucked in by the CDR, so at idle you may not see any at all.
That last statement is more true if the air filter has much restriction or is dirty.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
My 93 was using oil and I found the CDR was plugged. I replaced it and problem solved. Tom
i was going to check my cdr valve today,but the rubber bushing it goes into seemed pretty stiff so i left it alone till i can get another one.speaking of,where can i get a spare rubber bushing?
__________________ '79 f-250 7.3 idi,4x4,4.56 gears,4-speed,some rust,lots of fun
i was going to check my cdr valve today,but the rubber bushing it goes into seemed pretty stiff so i left it alone till i can get another one.speaking of,where can i get a spare rubber bushing?
I bought one from Green Sales company for $15.00, they can also ship it if you want. Highly recommend the company. I'm sure you could also get it from IH or the Ford Dealer.
Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A
IH part #1805319C1
Crankcase Depression Regulator ... The seal does not come with the CDR. The ford Part Number for the CDR Seal is E3TZ-6A892-A. ...
The part # for the rubber tube on the CDR... Retainer # E8TZ 6A892A ...... I believe they upgraded to a single part now hose and VP sealing end all in one.....
Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
CRAP-the more I read the less I know!
