You should be able to. They do carry the Ideal product line. If they don't have it for some reason do you have any electrical supply houses in your area? They would carry it. If you can't find it shoot me a pm and I'll send some to you.
sweet,i have to go to the one here in town tomorrow.does it come in a squeez tube or a tub?
__________________ '79 f-250 7.3 idi,4x4,4.56 gears,4-speed,some rust,lots of fun
Make sure you clean the terminals good. Also don't forget that Noalox is electrically conductive so you can put it on the battery terminals and then put the clamps on. Then i put a thin layer on top of them.
__________________
Jim
2001 F350 4X4 DRW
Bilsteins, 4" Turbo Back MBRP, 6637 w/ Custom Cold Air Intake,Autometer guages,The one and only DP TUNER
One thing I found to keep the battery posts clean is to clean verry well with breake cleaner, then put a bead of black RVT around the base of the post, let it set for aprox. 15 min. then push battery terminal down and clamp... On hot days gasses from battery leak up between the lead post and plastic suround causing battery acid to acumulate on the connection.....this worked for me when I lived in redding, cal. temps would get up to 125deg. in summer time.....now thats HOT, and I drove 1964 nova with a facttory 283 that was built and ran hot till I put in a rad.from a 1969 cammaro. but in that kind of heat underhood temps. still stayed hot... hop this was of some help to someone...
One thing I found to keep the battery posts clean is to clean verry well with breake cleaner, then put a bead of black RVT around the base of the post, let it set for aprox. 15 min. then push battery terminal down and clamp...
Interesting idea. I used to have good luck spray painting the terminals and posts after everything was clamped down. Donno if it really did anything, though...
Interesting idea. I used to have good luck spray painting the terminals and posts after everything was clamped down. Donno if it really did anything, though...
I got that tip from an old racer one day at the drags when I lived Redding, 26 years ago. man 26 years.... old age must be creepping up on me sumthin fearce!!! L(way)OL...
I would't think that the spray paint would hold up well. But being an electrician I'll stick to my tried and true method!! I have batteries on my cab over that have been exposed to the wonderful NE weather and my shop is very close to the ocean and there isn't an ounce of corrosion!!
__________________
Jim
2001 F350 4X4 DRW
Bilsteins, 4" Turbo Back MBRP, 6637 w/ Custom Cold Air Intake,Autometer guages,The one and only DP TUNER
I agree, Noalox sounds like it might be the way to go. The RTV also sounds cool.
When I did the spray paintthing thing, I was young and poor and used what I had. A good heavy coat (of whatever paint I had laying around) did hold up OK, and I did seem to see a lot less corrosion.
In engineering terms, what you really want (for a same-material connection) is a gas-tight connection. Just about anything that keeps the air/water/acid out of the connection region should really help. Clean and tight goes a long ways toward that goal.
Unfortunately, the stock positive passenger-side cable tends to fair internally.
That's kind of what the Noalox does. It is an oxide inhibiting compound. We mainly use it on aluminum service wires. I do a lot of work on the coast and i use a ton of this stuff. A buddy of mine his daughters car used to eat cables. I have never seen something corrode so fast. We cleaned everything up new cable and Noalox. It never corroded again. Plus the stuff is very inexpensive!
__________________
Jim
2001 F350 4X4 DRW
Bilsteins, 4" Turbo Back MBRP, 6637 w/ Custom Cold Air Intake,Autometer guages,The one and only DP TUNER
