i just pulled off the tube that connects to the block for the oil pressure sending unit when i went to put it back on it brake at the male thread i'm can i put some jb weld on the two pieces to take them outn, i need a good idea fast.
I haven't p/u my IDI yet so I'm just throwing out ideas.
FIRST soak it in PB BLASTER, the best penetrating/de-rusting stuff I've ever used!
If it's steel and you can get at it ,which unfortunatedly you probably can't, you could have a nut welded to the stub, I've used this trick a lot if it's an area you can get to. The heat produced by the welding process helps too, so try it right after the molten metal of the weld cools from red to black.
If it's brass or something similar you might be able to drill it and drive an "e-z out" "screw extractor" etc. Just remember to drill an undersize hole. Sometimes you can even drive an allen, or better yet, torx driver in a drilled hole and back it out.
These last ideas might work on steel to if it's hard to get at with a welder.
I think you are saying that the 1/8 pipe piece broke off in the block. That is easy to get out. If you don't have any square extractors get you flat tip screwdriver. A #2 will probably fit right. Tap it down in the piece that is broke and see if it will spin out.
There are a few 1/4 pipe tapped blocks but they aren't common in these trucks. I think the only ones are the factory turbo motors from 1994.
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79/83/86/95 F-??? 6.9 4speed
94 350 4x4 SRW 7.3 factory turbo
1930 Model A Original
My wife has three of her own.
If you get it removed, when replacing it do not use Teflon tape on the threads use Liquid Teflon or you may run into a no ground situation for the sender.
ok ive wrestled with this thing for 4 days after school i'm considering pulling off the intake manifold. is there a way i can do this and not hafto time my ip? is there any gaskets i need at autozone they say it only takes a valley pan, reuse?
You cant get a valley pan gasket at autozone.
get an easyout and unscrew it. There is NO need for tearing down the motor.
You can get to this with and 1/4 rachet a 3" extention and a socket that fits an easyout or pipe extractor. you can get them at your local hardware store.
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Randy
99.5 F350 Regency conversion kit 4x4 DRW
DP TUNER with: nostart,stock,high idle 1300,60t,decel,80e,120,140
Full 4" exhaust straight piped
6637 air filter --------
If an easy out don't pull it right out, you must have a bad easy out.
I had one break while I was out on the road once.
All I had was a flat file and an adjustable wrench.
Tapped the tail of the flat file down in the broken piece with the adjustable, the used the adjustable to turn the flat file and pulled it right out.
Luck was with me that day, I also had a pipe plug in the toolbox so I could make it home.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
i don't know if you can put heat on what your working on or not but if you heat it up then splash some water on it the rapid change in temp will sometimes crack the threads loose form the hole, then maybe the easy out will work better.
after consulting my neighbor he told me that since i cant get it out plug it with JB Quick. This worked, but after driving it for thirty minutes the engine got too hot and the JB quick opened up. Thankfully the engine is okay. he told me to cover that with jb weld, which ive done. the jb weld didnt cover all of it i suppose because it still leaks VERY BAD. i was pulling the intake when i realized that that thread might be on the blck, does anyone know. i guess if it is I need to clean it and use all of the jb weld on it.
oh boy, if your talking abouth the same thing im thinking of, then its a pain in the butt to access, you dont need a million dollars to remove this part from the block, just get a set of good ez outs, you get your moneys worth with these things drilling a hole where it is will be a pain, so try to pound the biggest one in that you can, soak it in some pb blaster like the others said, soak it odnt spray it and reef on it in 4 minnutes soak it over a period of hours, like before and after school, soak it, then after that try reefin on it but go easy because the ez out can snap or strip if you go to hard on it, and if that fails get a small torch, a small one not an oxy acetylene one a small one, like a pipe fitters one, rempve the ez out and heat right next to it try not to heat the piece directly, as this will make it super maleable, and will do nothing but bend and twist against the ez out, heating right next to it will hopefully expand the threads holding the piece in place and let it go. I wish you luck this is gonna be a tough one.
if you remove the intake then you have to remove the ip to put a new vally pan on. i could not get the vally pan back on my 6.9 without removing the ip you would have to bend it but the amount that you have to bend it it would not seal once you got it in. i have found that the easy outs that have the spiral thread looking deals on it works better than the strait edged ones. Good luck to you hope you get it out
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2000 f350 4 door short bed 7.3 pwsd bigger turbo,140hp chip,4 inch lift
well unfotuneatly easyouts are no longer an option as the jb weld is already on there is that thread on the intake? i'm going to try to patch it one more time as it is raining here and i cant pull the intake. i was going to pull the ip but get it to where you can adjust the fuel as to not loose timing. i hope this patch holds, i just need it to last till september then i can do whatever i need to do.
