Hey whats up guys?

firstly, I wrote about my missfire last week(thanks guys for the info), well I replaced the bad coil.
My motor has just awaken and this thing is a BEAST!!!

I have a 01 f250 with the 2v V10.

I am going to change out all my coils and plugs, then i am thinkin about doin nitrious.

Has anyone done this? Anyone have any ideas, or info, or warnings for me?
Any help or info would be much appreciated.
I looked in the turbo,supercharger, nitrious section, but did not see alot of info.
im thinking of getting the ZEX kit for trucks.(Zex rep gave me the part number for my app)

I am thinking of doing a 150 shot wet.
I hear you can do a 20 shot(WET) per cylinder on stock motors(as a round about guide), so i was thinking 150wet would be safe.
Quick question- Do we have cast iron rods? if so, should i step down to a 100 shot?

Thanks guys for the info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

 

The manifolds are stainless. I saw the Zex kit in a mag a while back. I would like nitrous but I'm smart enough to know I'd be spraying it all the time and would eventually wreck my engine. I know I wouldn't behave myself with the juice.

Remember that the numbers for Nitrous are RWHP, if it were me I'd start conservative with like a 50 or 75 shot. Some custom dyno tuning would help also.

 

rg200amp, go ahead and do and let us all know.

I would love to have nitrous! That'd be fun! Not sure when I'd ever use it though...

 

I am going to do it in a couple monthes.

My buddy has a 65 shot of wet on his stock chevy colbalt 2.2 ecotech V4.

He runs it ALOT and it is fun.

When I get mine, im only going to use it 2-3 times a month. I am not going to go crazy. i think i am going to go with a 150 shot wet.

Its going to be a real kick in the pants for sure!!!


I know a great tuneing shop about 40 miles from me. they work on the company Injen's 94 mazda rx-7 (twin turbo rotary) among others.

they are also the makers/owners of the fastest honda civic 1/4 mile on the east coast.

I am going to go through them. they did my buddies cobalt. they are a bit$$$, but you get a lot of experiance and know how with the extra cash.


I will post pics and vids when i do it.

 

start with a 75 and then go from there. btw good luck

 

This will be interesting, and if you do try to post some dyno numbers if they do an dyno tuning, and my advise is what ever you do DONT HIT THE REV LIMITER with nitrous, but if you do post picks of the carnage.

 

sock V10 has forged crank and rods and six bolt mains. your problem wont be with the bottom end. check for plastic intake manifold though, that will be a goner with 1 misfire. matt

 

They dont have forged rods, they have cast rods (same as 7.3L i think) and only a few years have the forged steel crank. only the mustang "terminator" motor had the forged rods. and you can find a cast aluminum lower plenum for the v10 because back in 99 they weren't plastic. I had this misconception like a month ago.

 

dont know where u got your info from, but i have 3 V10 engines apart in my garage. i have sent art, krewat many pictures of various parts. if he would like to share them with the group here, that would be excellent. matt

 

I said the same thing as you in this thread about the rods and crank, as i understood it they were discussing the 2v, so the 3v could be different, i dont know alot about the 3v other than the difference in the valves, other than that i thought that was the only thing they changed but this is were i got my info look at pg 2,3,4 it is an interesting thread though. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tecnology.html

 

meanv10, thanks for that post. i cant stop laughing at the arrogance of some of these guys. however, all you have to do is go to Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L Modular Performance Parts, and click on tech. it will tell you that ALL ford v10 crankshafts are forged steel. and it will also tell you that the rods are sinter FORGED powdered metal rods. i was right about the forging, but they arent steel. dont believe everything the so called builders on this site tell you. the 4.6 and 5.4 are basically car engines. the 6.8 V10 was built to be hammered like a truck engine. this is a strong bottom end. only thing u might want to change for nitrous would be the hypereutectic pistons. u would want to change them anyway to lower compression for a turbo setup. hope this helps. matt. if u need any pictures of internals, let me know

 

DON"T DO IT! the motor's inards can't handle nox . you have cast pistons.they can't can't handle nox and will burn up with as little as a 75hp jet. in a very short order.

guys come on cast rods? NO ! they are powder forged! which means the rod is forged out of metal that starts off as a iron powder before it getts melted down and made into the forgeing. the powder melts and makes a much cleaner, stronger rod.

the crank i don't remember fully but some how i'm thinking cast also. but cast?/forged of powdered metal which again makes for a stronger part due to how cleanly the metal melts and can be molded into shape

yes the plastic intake would melt with just on back fire just as the plastic one on my mustang blew apart several times from the boost levels from my stage 3 procharger .
now even that is going byby for a explorer express x_charger unit that has a alloy maniflod parts and uses a eaton m90 blower with a much cleaner installation.

with all the items we at level 10 tried on my 05, and to be frank they all were a waste of time and money. BUT the one item that did work either a whipple or kenniebell blower kit. is not made by any one any more.

save your money.put it in the bank and when we get the new boss motor trade up to it. the v10 is one motor you drive as is and enjoy the money you are now saveing at the gas pumps.

 

Yeh and everyone told me I couldn't run 125 shot on my Hypereutectic pistons either. 2nd season now and still going strong and it's a DRY kit. As long as it's tuned right you won't have any problems. Anybody blowing up parts has a bad tune.


I told myself the same thing, "I'll only use it at the track, or maybe once or twice on the street." I went through two bottles before I even made it to the track. At $45 a fill, N2O gets expensive.

 

All im saying is that i had the same belief going into that forum, they told me i was wrong and i posted a link, Before that fourme i was under the belief that it had forged rods and crank. and if you could post some picks that would be SWEET, ill take your word for it until someone can prove you wrong ( im hoping your right though) and my bad on the forged steel,

 

the guys that told you that you were wrong have never seen the inside of a 10. they have built the 4.6 and 5.4 engines, and naturally assume that the insides are the same. i can list you a dozen sites that will tell you the same thing. the wide parting lines on the counterthrows of the crank signal a forged crank. even wikipedia says that it comes with a forged steel crank and powder FORGED metal rods. the reason i put up sullivan performance was because i have watched them race a mod mustang here in gainesville and moroso motorsports park. they know the modular engines inside and out and their info on their site is factual. they sell awesome parts too! anyways, like captain charlie said, the pistons would be the only thing i would think twice on. and a well sorted combo with nitrous should be a winner i would think. but i would set it up as all race then. it wouldnt be my daily driver anymore. art, do u still have my pictures posted? matt