Hi,
Converted from Dodge to Ford and in the process of doing some mods.What do you all recommend for a Air Intake system, I thought I would start here first and then go with a 4 inch exhaust and then the Xcal2. Looking to get better MPG, without breaking the bank. Right now I get about 13-14mpg. I know the tires cut down a little bit, but hope to get maybe 16- 17. What do you all think?
IMO i would stay with the stock intake system....if you read more on the forums the truck seems to run better with it and the stock intake is good for like 400 hp or something like that but dont quote me....and if im wrong please somebody correct me....
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2004 fx4 f250, all stock with a pro-comp 4in lift soon to have xcal2 and gauges.......wait scratch that i need a new motor
The stock filter is the way to go. Save the turbo and stick with stock. I supports up to 500hp anyway. I don't think you will find many, maybe 1 in 100 on this site that recommend an intake.
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2005 F250 KR CC 6.0L
DashDAQ - soon to be Phalanx Monitor
ARP headstuds
Silverline Turboback
SCT X3...Spartan and Innovative tunes
DFuser Coolant Filter
FROM FORD: 6.0L & 6.4L Power Stroke Diesel
Super Duty and Excursion Air Filtration Q&A
Q: Don't all filters stop the same amount of contaminants from getting into the engine and turbo?
A: Absolutely not! The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filters, produced by Donaldson Company, Inc., stop 99.99% of contaminants the size of one micron or larger. Some aftermarket filters trap only 95%. What does this mean to an owner? Driven in the same conditions, a 95% filter would pass 50 grams of contaminant through to the engine that would be trapped by the OE filters! Even a 99.00% filter would pass 10 grams of contaminant. This could mean an early end to your engine or turbo.
Q: Won't aftermarket airbox modifications, which use a lower priced filter, save me money?
A: Don't be fooled by aftermarket tactics of comparing the cost of one filter because you also need to know how often you'll need to change filters. The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filters hold more than three pounds of dust, dirt and soot. The aftermarket kits tested by Donaldson Company, Inc. held about half this amount. And don't forget, if these aftermarket replacement filters are less than 99.99% efficient, they pass some contaminant through to the engine that the OE filter would have stopped!
Q: How frequently do the 6.0L and 6.4L OE air filters need to be changed?
A: Everybody's driving habits and environments are different.
Owners/Dealers should check the air filter restriction gauge (located on the upper housing of the air cleaner assembly) at each oil change interval to determine when the filter needs to be changed. Some vehicles also have a dash light that will illuminate when the filter needs to be changed. No replacement is necessary until the filter minder (or dash light) gives indication.
Q: My filter minder doesn't seem to move, so shouldn't I check or change the filter to be safe?
A: The filter minder is a gauge that starts registering only after the filter reaches a certain point of being filled. This is why owners do not see it consistently move (like a gas gauge). Rest assured, the filter minder works and there is no reason to check on the filter by removing the airbox cover, thereby increasing the risk of contaminants entering the air intake system. Remember, the 6.0L and 6.4L OE air filters hold more than three pounds of contaminant – so it will take some time to fill!
Q: I want maximum airflow through the system to provide more power. Don't some aftermarket filters provide more airflow than the 6.0L or 6.4L OE air filters?
A: Airflow should not be the determining factor in buying a filter. Think about it: would you ever operate without a filter in place even though you'd get maximum air flow? High airflow generally means the filter is less efficient at stopping contaminants, too. Owners should instead look for the combination of three factors: airflow, how small of contaminant the filter will stop, and how much contaminant the filter will hold. The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filtration systems provide a great combination and it comes standard on all Super Duty and Excursion trucks!
Q: If the 6.0L and 6.4L OE filtration systems are so effective and efficient, why would anybody pay to modify them?
A: Excellent question. It makes no sense to pay hard earned money to go backwards in technology – especially considering that such modifications may even put future warranty repairs in jeopardy. You invested in your 6.0L or 6.4L Power Stroke Diesel truck to provide years of dependable service. Ford engineered it with a great filtration. So just why would anyone pay to modify it?
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20
DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod
Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; CCV filter
Fumoto; HFCM Plug; Harpooned fuel tank
JimmiJammers; Ravelco; DashDaq & britebox on deck
Line-X, CPOhighway Prod. tool box, tracrac
Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers
Stanadyne Perf. & B2 for lubricity
most would say as long as it is a progaurd 7 filter you should be fine...however, w/ that being said most would say you do not need one until you reach higher hp. i got one....seems to spool faster...you hear the turbo outside the truck more, but not sure it was worth the bill. jmo
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2003 F250 6.0 PSD SB Lariat 4x4 4" superlift, 35 x 12.5 x 20 Toyo Open Country MTs on 20 x 10 American Racing - Chrome Cannons, Volant Ram Air Intake, Silverline 4" Turbo Back Exhaust, SCT tuned by SDT, ARP Head Studs, ISSPRO Gauges - Pyro, Trans, and Boost, Air Dog 100, ITP Reg. Return
Being a noob and reading these forums for a couple of months I would NOT change the air intake.
When I first got my 05 back in 07 I had all sort of mod plans. The first two were an air intake and exhaust mod. The truck works fine and does everything I ask in its stock configuration. The 6.0's seem a little moody and I worry about the impact of mods. Others on this board have had great success with various aftermarket configurations. I am just urging caution. By asking your question here it looks like you are off to a good start.
Definately, both great mods. You should also look at a good set of gauges. Boost (unless its newer than 05), trans temp, coolant temp, and egt are the most popular.
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2005 F250 KR CC 6.0L
DashDAQ - soon to be Phalanx Monitor
ARP headstuds
Silverline Turboback
SCT X3...Spartan and Innovative tunes
DFuser Coolant Filter
If you tow or like to haul a**, you definately need better than the stock dumby gauges. Those usually don't warn you til it is too late.
rdj184, there are plenty of people with just one gauge and it doesnt look bad.
What are you saying the gauges are not accurate.....d**n I never really thought about that I was just happy to have them
now I am going to be all stressed
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