Well, here starts my project log (plog). I'll record all my work on my new pickup.
I inherited my Grandfather's 1975 F-100 (from what I can tell - VIN is F10HLV43579). It's in rough shape, but it runs. Driver's door doesn't open very well, it has a flatbed instead of a regular, it's dumping tons of coolant out of the radiator overflow line, and it's overall in poor shape.
But I really want to get it fixed up, due to the sentimental value. My grandfather liked to dodge taxes, so all his property went in other people's names. Consequently, the family didn't get much to remember him by, so they all want this truck done. Anyways. I have a few questions about this truck I'd like some answers to.
Fist off, the vin decoder I found said this was a 2WD truck. However, it does have a bell housing with drive shaft u-joints on the front axle, and a transfer case shifter on the floor. It seems to just be missing the front drive shaft.
Second, I'm looking to replace the bed. I found a 6-3/4' for $100, and an 8' for $175. The truck is currently a standard cab. I'm assuming that a 6-3/4' bed available means that I might be able to switch to a crew cab? If so, which years and models would be compatible?
Third, I was told it has power steering, but I didn't look. Definitely doesn't work if it does. Any repair tips?
I wold guess that the 6 3/4 bed if for a regular cab short bed as I am pretty sure the supercabs didn't come out till 77 or 78 but I could be wrong. I am also pretty sure that the supercab beds dont interchange with the standard cab stuff I was thinking they have different frames. I would start with your coolant problem if it is all coming out the small over flow hose it is most likely a bad cap, as for your power steering check the fluid level and check the system for leaks. If you have a transfer case and a front axle with a drive shaft yoke I would say your truck is a 4x4, the missing drive shaft could be a sign of front axle damage or you might just need a new one. I'm not quite sure what you ment by bellhousing that is what goes between the engine and the tranny it has nothing to do with four wheel drive. Hope this helped some.
-Johnboy
Sorry, I wrote all when I was barely awake. I meant the Differential, not the bell housing Indeed, I was told by someone that there was front axle damage.
Going down to pick it up today - has to be towed, waiting for the forms from California so I can apply for a title in this state.
1975 was the first model year for the Supercab. As for the frame I think they are the same except for the dual wheel trucks but not positive. Did your grandfather replace the cab at some point? Look on the frame on the passenger side top rail behind the radiator and see if the numbers match. I say this because of the 2WD code but obviously 4X4 truck. I know what you mean about sentimental value I have a '58 IH Golden Anniversary A-100 the belonged to my Grandfather, Dad, Brother and now mine. Good luck with yours
I thought I had mentioned that it was a dually, but I see now that I hadn't.
Unfortunately, the trailer we rented from u-haul was just a few inches too short - it fit, but the driver didn't feel safe pulling it (back tires part on, part off). So now I have to pay $230 to tow it, or drive it back.
I'm leaning towards driving it back (it's 40 miles), but that means I need to get the coolant problem fixed, as well as the power steering and brakes. The brake fluid reservoir (master cylinder?) is completely rusted outside, although the inside looked fine (new MC is $20-$92). I filled the power steering pump up with fluid (didn't have time to take a good look at it though), drove it for a few minutes, opened the hood and fluid was everywhere. All over the hood and engine. Might have a broken line or damaged pump (pump is $58 with a $25 core).
As for the coolant, I figure I'll flush the system, replace the thermostat, replace the cap and hoses, and see how that goes. If hot coolant is coming out of the overflow tube, I figure it must be circulating, and I'm not blowing any belts, so pump sounds alright (although a new one is only $25-$70).
I'd much rather drive the truck back, since to drive it I have to do some maintenance on it; I'd rather pay for the maintenance than pay for it and a $230 towing charge.
Only problem is I'm waiting for the title search to come back from California. As soon as that comes in I can apply for the title here (assuming the cab hasn't actually been changed - the VIN tag was replaced and a Colorado Assigned ID tag was on the door frame).
Any other places I can check for the VIN at? Also, the steering wheel has a ton of play - from 11' to 1' is pretty much a dead zone. any advice on that?
Wow, sounds like you do have a bit of work ahead of you. You might want to look into AAA, I don't know the cost, but you get like 3 tows within 100 miles in a year. Friends of mine have had it, and it's how I got my 79 4x4 and 62 T-Bird home.
Do the T-stat and radiator cap, and hoses if they're leaking. Drain what's in there, and just put pure water. No point in wasting money on coolant if it might just start blowing it out all over.
Your power steering probably has a leak in the high pressure line, that would make it blast everywhere, the return line wouldn't make as big of a mess. If the pump is shot, and you don't get it towed, I'd say just drive it with manual steering for now.
Bleed the brakes and see how it does. The MC on old trucks are always rusted on the outside (I needed a chain wrench to unscrew the cap on my t-bird's). But if they work and don't leak too bad, you should make it for your trip. Just check them as you go, and be safe. The brakes are the LAST thing you want to be giving you problems on the road.
I'm betting the cab was changed if it's coming up as 2wd. I've never heard of a 75 F100 4x4 dually, but plenty on here would know better than I. Sound's like the truck I'd want...
Keep posting back with updates and questions, and we'll all do our best to help you get your truck home, safe and sound. Good luck!
That was already mentioned, but I haven't had a chance to go back out there yet, and I probably won't for at least another week.
I'm thinking I should definitely verify the vin and take lots of pictures. It's definitely a dually with 4x4 axles and a transfer case. And that vin was from the cab (although it had been painted over). If I got the wrong vin, then the forms I sent to Colorado and California were wrong and it's going to take another 3 weeks each to get the right info.
The truck was won in a poker game in California by my grandfather (supposedly), so it has no title and I have no info. I can't even run a vin check due to the age of the vehicle.
I'm going to try and get out there as soon as possible, or get someone out there for me.
2 or 4WD Rear Axle: Dana 60 verifiable ID tag = 2" x 1/2" bolted to the left axle tube, adjacent to the inspection cover. The tag will have a 7 digit code like: 603010-1.
4WD Front Axle: Dana 44 or Dana 60: The ID tag is bolted on the right axle tube. Otherwise the above info applies.
Automatic Transmission ID: The Ford ID tag is bolted on the transmission case left side, above the manual control lever. The code will have a three digit prefix beginning with the letter P and a 1, 2 or 3 digit suffix.
Manual Transmission (New Process or Warner 4 Speed): The tag is bolted to the trans case at the front or rear. The code usually is similar to: D3TA-7004-AA.
Transfer case: The Ford ID tag code will be similar to: D0TA-7A195-AA.
Quote:
Passenger frame rail, you can see the cab mount. They are all in this general area.
Quote:
Buck Tag: the lip where the body meets the back back of the Hood, slightly bigger than a military dog tab and has 3 lines
one on cowl, one on the chassis where the cab and bed meet
1970/72 F100/350: have a rectangular shaped grille of gray moulded plastic. The parklamps are below the headlamps, mounted on the gravel pan. 1970 F100/350's have a three spoke steering wheel with either a horn button or a horn ring. 1971/72's have a two spoke steering wheel with a vinyl horn pad that stretches across the center of the wheel. The same wheel and horn pad were used thru 1977.
1973/77 F100/350: The grille surround is anodized aluminum. The two grille inserts are plastic. The parklamps are mounted within the grille surround above the headlights. 1973 thru early 1976 have clear parklamp lenses, late 1976's & 1977's have amber parklamp lenses.
1978/79 F100/350: The grille surround is anodized aluminum. The large "fish mouth" grille insert is plastic. The amber parklamps are mounted within the grille surround below the headlamps and wrap around slightly to the outside.
NOTE: No in-cab fuel tanks were used after 1977.
Thanks to NumberDummy, ranger429, and others.
NumberDummy, you said in a post last christmas that you can call the California DMV's 1-800 number and run VIN checks. Once I get the correct VIN, would it be possible for you to do that for me? I sent in the title search forms to California and Colorado, and both came back negative.
1975 F-100 390FE Restoration Plog
Indeed, I was told by someone that there was front axle damage.
midsouthracers.com
