Shifter stuck in park, Anti lock lite flashing
#1
Shifter stuck in park, Anti lock lite flashing
Morning guys,
Yesterday trying to leave work I jumped into my truck to take off, hit the key put my foot on the brake pedal and went to pull the shifter down into drive only to find I could not move the shifter.
Took some finagling but got it home. I can usually get it to let me move the shifter it if I start it first, then shut it off, turn the key back on, without starting it, just as I start turning the key I feel it release the shifter allowing me to **** to neutral so I can start it and drive away.
At the same time this happen the anti lock light came on and now flashes as I drive. 16 flashes and it repeats over and over again, I used the diagnostic connector to check for any codes. Gives the same thing, 16 flashes. My book says 16 flashes means "System Operating correctly (RABS II) no action, system OK".
I thought maybe I confused it so I disconnected the battery for a little while to clear codes and it would return to normal, no such luck.
The light flashed the same code before and after disconnecting the battery.
Any of you have this issue before?
Looks like I need to drop the column down but I'll wait for some of you to respond with ideas before I do.
Dan
Yesterday trying to leave work I jumped into my truck to take off, hit the key put my foot on the brake pedal and went to pull the shifter down into drive only to find I could not move the shifter.
Took some finagling but got it home. I can usually get it to let me move the shifter it if I start it first, then shut it off, turn the key back on, without starting it, just as I start turning the key I feel it release the shifter allowing me to **** to neutral so I can start it and drive away.
At the same time this happen the anti lock light came on and now flashes as I drive. 16 flashes and it repeats over and over again, I used the diagnostic connector to check for any codes. Gives the same thing, 16 flashes. My book says 16 flashes means "System Operating correctly (RABS II) no action, system OK".
I thought maybe I confused it so I disconnected the battery for a little while to clear codes and it would return to normal, no such luck.
The light flashed the same code before and after disconnecting the battery.
Any of you have this issue before?
Looks like I need to drop the column down but I'll wait for some of you to respond with ideas before I do.
Dan
#2
What truck is it? On the earlier ones The only shift lock was on the ign. switch actuator and was prone to break. Later trucks had a lock operated by the brake pedal. If it is the actuator you need to pull the steering wheel, the turn signal switch plate and then the column shroud. You will then see the actuator. It has a thin square section prong which breaks off and jams the shift lever. As for your RABS problem I can`t see that anything in the column could be causing it. Check your brake fluid level and the wiring connections at the master cylinder. Check also that your stop lights are working as the computer must get a signal from the stop light switch. Also the Ford RABS does not store fault codes so no need to clear system.
#3
Blown brake light fuse, apparently they don't want ya to drive it with no brake lights!
Have blown the brake light fuse in my 94 many times, it never did that, must have made a small change in the 95's.
After discovering that with a couple of quick tests I would have thought a bunch of you would have posted "same thing happen to me, check the fuse".
I guess the worse part is my wife followed me all the way home yesterday, never said a word about me not having any brake lights!
Have blown the brake light fuse in my 94 many times, it never did that, must have made a small change in the 95's.
After discovering that with a couple of quick tests I would have thought a bunch of you would have posted "same thing happen to me, check the fuse".
I guess the worse part is my wife followed me all the way home yesterday, never said a word about me not having any brake lights!
#4
#5
It could also be two blown brake light bulbs as the local Ford dealer told me or as in my case, with my son's 1994 F-250, the brake light switch was bad. All fuses were good. I was told that you can by pass this by turning the key to the first notch and then putting the vehicle in neutral and then starting it.
#7
same problem but brakes are blowing the fuse
1997 F250 Parked it this morning and found the shift lever locked up when I got back in it. Couldn't get it out of park. ABS light was flashing 16 times (15 short and 1 long). No brake lights. Found #13 fuse blown (blue 15 amp that controls shift interlock and brake lights etc). I also finally figured out that I could, as people have mentioned, turn the key halfway and then shift into neutral in order to start the truck and then shift into drive. FYI, in the last month, I have had the steering column replaced AND the transmission rebuilt, but I have been driving it for about a week without any problems. Today, I replaced the brake switch on the brake pedal, just in case. After all of this, I did finally figure out that stepping on the brake is what is blowing the fuse. I put about 5 new fuses in it, until we saw and heard it blowing the first time I the brake was stepped on. So, I think all of my symptoms are due to the fuse blowing, but what is causing the fuse to blow???
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#8
#10
I had all those symptoms. Mine was caused by poor trailer wiring which got wet with rain. It blew the fuse #13 as soon as I stepped on brake pedal. Then the lock out occurred. I got it started by removing the rear stoplights to get it started in neutral. Then replacing the bulbs and lenses while running. Then driving with lights on. But soon as I stepped on brake, the fuse blew again, but I made it home with careful driving and hand signals if necessary.
#11
Hello
I saw a bit of smoke comming from arround the steering columb and then I could not get it in gear and the abs light is flashing...I need to get it out of the parking lot at work and it is 0 degrees ha ha .I am trying to get some info before I go there..where is the shift lock located on the 1995 f150?I will try some of the ideas above --the #13 fuse ....half turning the key and then going to neutral..
I saw a bit of smoke comming from arround the steering columb and then I could not get it in gear and the abs light is flashing...I need to get it out of the parking lot at work and it is 0 degrees ha ha .I am trying to get some info before I go there..where is the shift lock located on the 1995 f150?I will try some of the ideas above --the #13 fuse ....half turning the key and then going to neutral..
#12
1995 F250 Similar problem
I have been encountering the same issue as previous posts. The fuse #13 keeps blowing as soon as I press on the brake pedal. This started slowly at first blew out last Monday, then didn't do it again until Wed last week. Placed a 20amp fuse in for the 15 and it didn't do it again until yesterday. Now no matter the fuse it does it every time I press on the brake pedal. I have checked it after removing the wiring harness from the shift interlock solenoid, and after removing the added led brake light bar I put on. Still happening, nothing happens when I turn on the hazards, and I checked some of the wiring in the steering column. I do have a trailer brake system installed and I have not yet checked the wiring on that or the brake light bulbs. I am going to be doing that today. If there is anything else someone can suggest to check I would greatly appreciate it.
EDIT: So I resolved my issue. The cargo lamp assembly has a wire that was making contact with the sheet metal of the cab. Every time I pressed the brakes the center brake light would get power and would cause the short in the circuit. Since I have removed the assembly with the faulty wire I have not had an issue with the fuse blowing out or the shift interlock not disengaging. So my issue is resolved, I hope this helps at least one other person.
EDIT: So I resolved my issue. The cargo lamp assembly has a wire that was making contact with the sheet metal of the cab. Every time I pressed the brakes the center brake light would get power and would cause the short in the circuit. Since I have removed the assembly with the faulty wire I have not had an issue with the fuse blowing out or the shift interlock not disengaging. So my issue is resolved, I hope this helps at least one other person.
Last edited by Draconus; 03-19-2013 at 07:19 PM. Reason: Resolved
#13
I tried pulling a ranger outta the Mudd and the guy wrapped tow rope around my trailer wire and when I went to pull him shifter locked up and all the above problems. I got the abs lights to go off and changed 2 fuses. I big bus fuse and a dash fuse. But I still can't get it to shift. I really need to move my truck can anyone help me please.
#14
I just went exactly through this. Kept popin #13 (stop abs speed computor
trans) poped 4 more. Remove stop light plug wire, test terminal (put new
fuse in) one lights with test light (got power) with long jumper to the batt.
I jumped the other terminal -brake light on nice & bright. So there is no
dead short to brake lights. Either I fix it or burn it so I drop the column,
MAKE sure to disconnect the little prnd21 string when dropping or you snap
it steer. wheel on lap 3 tork screws on quadrant unplug the little SOB and
fling it in the woods put quadrant back, and while col. down good time to
shim up the plastic shift shaft bushings, I used .005 copper shim stock.
shift now nice and tight no more stepping on brake no more blown fuses
it was that stupid solonoid. Saftey Natzies
trans) poped 4 more. Remove stop light plug wire, test terminal (put new
fuse in) one lights with test light (got power) with long jumper to the batt.
I jumped the other terminal -brake light on nice & bright. So there is no
dead short to brake lights. Either I fix it or burn it so I drop the column,
MAKE sure to disconnect the little prnd21 string when dropping or you snap
it steer. wheel on lap 3 tork screws on quadrant unplug the little SOB and
fling it in the woods put quadrant back, and while col. down good time to
shim up the plastic shift shaft bushings, I used .005 copper shim stock.
shift now nice and tight no more stepping on brake no more blown fuses
it was that stupid solonoid. Saftey Natzies