I've only run across that once before. That truck had a couple of broken rockers and bent pushrods. Pretty easy fix.
Other than that....I couldn't even guess.
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Scott - FTE moderator
01 F-250 Lariat, 7.3, ZF-6, NV271, -38R, SII splits, DI tunes, Custom fuel, 5" stacks, IDM140....and more little mods than I can remember.
79 Bronco- 7.3 IDI diesel project truck - AWM
It shows what is probably going on with your valves due to worn guides..... right now your not hitting the piston with the valve, but how soon it does is measured in thousand of an inch.....
i wrapped & marked each one they are back in original position,i'll do that stem wiggle test in the morning,and from there i thought my buddy had a gauge that would do a diesel but he doesnt,so until monday i'll just be trying to check visually and by hand what i can.
Take the glow plugs out and use a rubber tipped air blow nozzle and charge each cylinder. See if you have any air going anyplace it shouldn't. Make sure the truck is out of gear and stay clear of the fan and the other goodies that spin and have no conscious. You may have a floated lifter or two.
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79/83/86/95 F-??? 6.9 4speed
94 350 4x4 SRW 7.3 factory turbo
1930 Model A Original
My wife has three of her own.
the truck was just traded for ,i swapped an old bronco mud truck for it,the guy i got it from said he just thought it was the batteries,i figured even if i had to put a motor in it id have me a really nice truck,but id like to try all options on gettin this thing going first (she is cherry,all for the not starting part)
From previous experience, I would say you have some bad valve guides and or seats, and possibly some burned or broken valves. If you wind up having to remove the heads, do yourself a favor and COMPLETELY rebuild them with all guides and seats and valves. You may be better off spending the money on new heads unless you can do them yourself. If it turns out you have timing issues ( not likely) you may want to start by yanking the engine
heads are coming out next,hopefully they can still be reused,i'll definately be dropping them off for a valve job if that turns out to be the only damage.
A hint for head removal-when removing the head bolts, the lower bolt in the back on each side will probably have to remain in the head until it is pulled off the engine because it wont clear the heater box and firewall. Just remember to put them back in before re-installing. Just had a head gasket job for a guy that thought he didnt need to re-install those 2 bolts! Anyway-good luck!
i did a leak down test yesterday, cylinder 1 blew out the exhaust,4 blew out the intake,no need to go any further i guess. heads will start coming out today.the good news is no air blew into the block that i could tell.
