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  #1  
Old 04-15-2008, 06:34 PM
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Happyreefer Happyreefer is offline
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Front 4x4 Hub Removal / Rotor change out

Changed the Front Disk Pads today to find out that the inner side of the Passenger Rotor is destroyed. I believe it is beyond just a normal Turning to fix and will need to be replaced.

Any and all comments on the removal of Manual locking hub and rotor removal would be appreciated.

Also any advise on where to look for a new one. Weather I should replace with a OEM or after market. Not sure what would fit.

Front end is completely stock, so i believe it is a dana 60, but not sure. I know someone told me on here at one point but could not remember or find the post.

Thanks in advance.

Gary
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2008, 12:45 AM
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You should have a Dana 60.

Your best bet is your local parts house for a replacement rotor. You want to stick to a name brand. There is some foreign stuff being offered that is junk right out of the box.

To replace the rotor, here is a basic rundown:

1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.

Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.

Jason
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:45 AM
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That's a real good write up by RCrawler. I'd purchase a snap ring tool if you don't already have one, it can save some headache. Really check the bearings and races for scoring or any other damage. If damaged you might as well replace them while you're in there. I think that I paid around $150-200 for all new bearings, races, seals, etc. from NAPA on my old Dana 44. Other than that keep plenty of show towels and hand cleaner nearby, it's a greasy job. Don't forget to pack the bearings well with a quality grease. I also tighten by feel. If you do it this way remember that you want just a little resistance when it spins. If you tighten it down too much it will burn up the bearings. Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 04-16-2008, 10:15 AM
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Thanks for advice.

Other than a couple spots and the special tool I will need seems pretty straight forward. I think I will tackle it this weekend.
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #5  
Old 04-16-2008, 10:32 AM
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I should also add that when you are driving the studs back in, it is a good idea to set the hub on a peice of wood to keep from distorting the end of the hub.

Jason
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'12 Dodge 3500 crewcab 6.7 HO, Not Stock!!
'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3 ZF and a ton of miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
Honey badger don't care...
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2008, 02:19 PM
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Just bought a new rotor and lock nut socket at napa, 50 for the socket and 60 for the rotor.
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2008, 12:56 PM
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Thanks for the help, here are a couple of pictures of the project.
Was not as hard as I expected. took maybe and hour and a half.



Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Gary/Desktop/truck%20spindle/spindle1.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Gary/Desktop/truck%20spindle/spindle1.jpg[/IMG]
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2008, 09:32 AM
knapikmichael knapikmichael is offline
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50 dollars for thatv toll id take it back and go to auto zone they have the same one for 20 dollars
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2008, 07:12 PM
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so do your brakes work better now. mines i have to stand on to get my truck to stop. though most of the time i just down shift. lol. i know my brakes are shot. though i've allready put new wheelbearings in the front. that was a job. though i blew through a couple of tires it was rattling so bad it was crazy. i got my truck it must have been sitting for 20 years all four tires and the spare dissintegrated before i put 1000 miles on it. pretty hairy looking tires came off one at a time. Pretty good truck . the 6.9 is like a tractor. not very fast though. my truck wont even spin the tires! But i used it to roll another truck on to it's side and cut the frame in half . no problem. 4low...forgettabout it. lol
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2008, 10:48 PM
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I bought this truck about 1 1/2 years ago. There are many round-to-its to get to. I never checked but the guy I bought it off said he just changed out the pads. Until the day I felt some grinding I have had no problems with my brakes. they have always been pretty firm.

When I pulled the pads I was in shock. I have never let brakes get that bad. The rotor was grooved about 1/8 of an inch on the inside. I now know to make sure I check these a little more often.

As far as pulling the Manual Hub assembly and removing the rotor off the spindle, I felt the job was pretty easy. I know I would have to have the inner bearing pulled and reset for me as I dont have the tools to press that in.

I could not have been happier with my purchase of this 7.3 IDI Turbo. Like I said there are a lot of things to work on but it gives me a reason to crack a cold one and spend some alone time with my tools.
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #11  
Old 04-24-2008, 10:54 PM
AndysFords AndysFords is offline
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My truck was the same way, supposedly had new ones, started grinding, took both wheels down, had three that looked brand new and one wore all the way down. Turns out I had a stuck caliper.
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2008, 05:21 PM
Steve_150_96 Steve_150_96 is offline
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Revisit the Rotor

This weekend I replaced my rotors as instructed to in this thread. I purchased a set of Raybestos PG plus rotors that came with the entire hub and rotor assembly already done. It was only $10 more for the hub so I thought the time saved pounding out the studs would be worth it… I was wrong.

It would seem that the new hub was slightly smaller in diameter than my old hub. The outer most gear ring (light gray in the picture) would not slide in easily. On one side I was able to heat up the hub and coax it in with a hammer and piece of wood. On the other side, I had to do A LOT more coaxing – in fact it is not all the way in yet.

Has anyone ever ran into this problem? I know I should have taken them back, but I needed to get it done. Am I screwed when I go to take this apart? I figured I could use a puller to get them out.
Thanks
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2008, 06:59 PM
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Not sure what you mean by the "gear ring".

As far as putting the Inner Races in the hub, I heated the hub AND putt the Race in the Freezer. This process allowed the race to drop into position with no need for persuasion with a hammer.

If what you mean is the race is stuck halfway into the hub, I would pound it back out and start over. This time put the hub in the oven and the race in the freezer. Even though this takes a couple of hours to work right, it saves on the cuss word and use of the hammer.
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1994 Crew Cab F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo 3" Downpipe to straight pipe

E4OD - 4.10's - 35" Mud Terrains Gear Venders Under/Overdrive
ISSPRO Gauges: Pyrometer, Water temp, trans temp, turbo boost

"But can it crush cars?"
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  #14  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:24 PM
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Steve_150_96,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

If the hub locking parts are not sliding right in, you have a wrong or bad hub.
They should slide right in with light finger pressure.
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  #15  
Old 09-22-2008, 11:19 PM
Steve_150_96 Steve_150_96 is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys. I think you got what I was talking about Dave, it is the largest diameter locking part that I was referring to not the races.

I triple checked that the part number is right so this must be a manufacturing defect. I wish that I would not have forced it in, but what is done is done.

I think I will leave it for now and deal with it on my next brake job. That will give me time to think how I am going to attach a puller to this thing to get it out ... perhaps of some kind of metal ring that can be secured with the cap screws.
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:19 PM
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1986, 2000, 4wd, 4x4, 60, bearing, bearings, change, dana, f250, f350, ford, front, hub, lock, nut, otc, parts, removal, toll, wheel

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