I know RP has been discussed alot, but I was just curious as to who is running it as there main oil? Are you happy with it's overall performance?
The reason I am asking is because RP is the current fill in my mark but I'm wanting to find out more about this oil before I start using it every oil change. BTW, so far I have 4K on this OCI and have been satisfied so far.
Heard of RP but not familiar with it. I've always used what Ford recommends per owners manual Motorcraft 5W20 and have had no problems. Very low cost 5qt. jugs at Wal-Mart for $10.36/jug last week. Motorcraft filters less than $4.00.
Not for the engine. But their other products like Gear oil, MTF,ATF and grease. Their prices are very decent on those products and with those fluids going 30k and beyond before service the cost is not bad. I get RP gear oil for 8.99 and ATF for 5.97 at the local parts house.
I run RP in everything on the truck (93 F350 460, E4OD). Diffs, t-case, transmission is coming(rebuild just installed by a shop on a road trip, soon as it hits about 10000 miles, it gets RP too..) and engine. I usually use it in the radiator too, but last time they were out so I used Red Line water wetter in it.. (RedLine is also very good oil, btw, but where I live, the RP is available local, RL is not)
RP makes a really good gun oil too..
My wifes Land Rover has always had a fairly "noisy" engine since it was new..Dealer uses and recommends Valvoline synth, I used Mobile1 in it for awhile and it was still "noisy"..just a bit clattery sounding. Put RP in it and while it is not completely silent, it IS noticeably quieter.
I ran trhe Ford stuff till it was broken in. Switched to Schaeffer's 5w40 and then to their 15w40. Neither one was doing much more than the Ford stuff according to analysis. I just got 15 gal. of Royal Purple. Will be putting it in soon.
My only direct experience with RP motor oil was not very good, but the application does not relate very well to a Ford V-8. In a Suzuki motorcycle, which shares engine, transmission and wet clutch from the same oil supply, RP sheared down within 1000 miles. I noticed gear shifting went to heck. Shell Rotella T synthetic, which is cheaper and supposedly made from inferior base stock (Group III) did not fail like that. Like I said, the applications are quite different.
I have used Royal Purple 5w30 oil and a Motorcraft FL400s oil filter in my Aerostar van with excellent results. No leaks, Did not use a drop of oil between changes. 144K miles on the van at the time, I used it in the hot NoCal summer, triple digit heat outside, freeway driving, stop and go traffic with the AC blowing ice cold.
Engine ran at normal temperature with Royal Purple 5w30.
Garage floor spotless, no drips or leaks with Royal Purple.
Engine turns over and starts immediately with (you guess it) Royal Purple.
I'd use any of their products, their MAX ATF is excellent, as well as their Purple Ice for the radiator.
Plus I've seen full race motors at the drags run Royal Purple street oils, these are American Muscle Cars, running low 9s 165+ MPH through the quarter mile. Royal Purple is a good oil, use with confidence.
I run it in both mustangs, the capri will have it as soon as it's due for another OC. The truck leaks/burns too much so I use cheap oil in it right now. When I put another motor in it this summer though, it will end up with RP as well.
1993 F-250 HD XLT Lariat SC 4X4 7.3/5spd ATS WG turbo @ 12psi, 3" DP 4" straight exhaust, 5" stacks, Hypermax cowl induction with inline filter, IP up 3 flats, DPS stage 1 injectors, GPR LED mod, SMF conversion, coolant filter, catch can, Pyro/Boost gauges.
1986 F-250HD XLT Lariat 4X4 6.9/T19, soup bowl mod, straight pipe.
I'm not sure if using Royal Purple is beneficial or not, but I have noticed some differences. I have a 1994 Ford F250 with a 7.5l 460ci V8. If you are familiar with the temp gauge, it has 2 lines on each end with the word NORMAL in between them. Using dino oil, Mobile 1, and Wal-Mart Super-Tech motor oil, the temperature gauge always showed around the "O" in the word normal. Using Royal Purple, it usually runs half way between the first line and the letter "N". Obviously much cooler. I went back and forth twice and confirmed the drop in temperature. Now, whether or not running cooler is good or not, I'm not sure. Some may say that if the engine runs too cool, the computer will try and run it richer; thus worse gas mileage and more carbon. Others say the opposite.
I'm not sure what if any, changes in fuel efficiency Royal Purple has. I experiment so much with things such as Acetone, Lucas, Seafoam, and others that I don't have a consistent enough baseline to determine if Royal Purple helps gas mileage or not. But I do know with Royal Purple, the engine runs cooler and smoother. There's almost no hesitation or stutter. Especially when idling. It's never bad, but you can tell a difference with Royal Purple. It's not a placebo affect, just hard to explain.
Now, is it worth using Royal Purple or not, that is the question. Because of the climate where I live, and the extreme altitude I drive at, I change the oil in my truck every spring no matter the mileage. (Mileage is around 6000 miles. I know synthetic can go more than that, but again with the extreme temperatures and high altitude, I change it once a year no matter what. Royal Purple is found at our local Checker Auto. Normally it's $6.99 a qt, but almost anytime I check it out, there is a sale down to $5.97 a qt. So, for the 5 qts I need, that's $30. If I buy the 5 qt bottle of Mobile 1 at Wal-mart, it's $24. So, $6 more isn't bad. If I buy the Super-Tech synthetic at Wal-Mart, it's only $14. The $16 is a big difference. Some people say that as long as the motor oil meets all the specs, then you are better off buying the cheaper oils. Some actually believe that Royal Purple, Mobile 1, etc... make a difference.The way I figure it; No one has ever really said that Royal Purple has DAMAGED their vehicle. So, for the extra $6-$16 for an oil change; once a year; thus equating to $0.50 to $1.35 a month. For that little extra, it was/is worth a try. So far, I haven't had any problems with it. Again, it runs significantly cooler engine; (Not sure if that's good or bad) and it sound smoother.
The Ford Family:
2000 Ford Focus - 143,000 miles
1994 Ford Explorer (4.0l V6) - 114.000 miles
1994 Ford F250 (460 V8) - 65,100 miles
1966 Ford Mustang (289 V8) - 141,200 miles
I Now, whether or not running cooler is good or not, I'm not sure. Some may say that if the engine runs too cool, the computer will try and run it richer; thus worse gas mileage and more carbon. Others say the opposite.
As far as I know, the engine computer uses the coolant temperature to determine whether the engine is warmed up, or not.
[QUOTE=aurgathor;6063184]As far as I know, the engine computer uses the coolant temperature to determine whether the engine is warmed up, or not.
EXACTLY! thanks for saying that as I was just about to. In fact, once the thermostat opens at or around 193 degrees, it's what the computer looks at to determine fuel mixture, which even then, has been reduced and it's not as rich as it would be during initial cold startup.
Quality oils help absorb internal, ambient heat, and also heat during heat soak conditions, which is always a GOOD thing.
An oil will never cause the engine to run too cool, as to cause problems with sludging, ect. Frequent short trips will, but that is not the fault of the oil, per se.
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