Put together my Kobal workbench last night and put two coats of minwax natural stain on it...sucked it in like you can't imagine and i'm sure it would suck in a few more coats.

I know the stain really won't protect it, so i'm going to clear coat it. any suggestions or will standard clearcoat (brushed) cut it? I don't want one so thick or glossy (like a bar's coating) that you can crack the coating and it starts chipping.

I'd prefer the suggestions be for easily obtained (ie: Walmart of Lowe's).

TIA.
Rob

 

I would use a polyurethane varnish. You can take it to whatever level of finish you want by applying more coats, sanding in between. When you're done, give it plenty of time to cure and harden before using it. I like to throw a piece of Masonite on my bench when I'm going to do heavy or dirty work.

 

dirty? I'll only be cleaning motorcycle carbs....oh wait, i might want to throw some cardboard on top.....

I think poly varnish will be perfect.....that small bench sucked in half a quart of stain in seconds, even the second coat.

 

As long as you go with an oil base top coat. You should be good. Oil base is repairable where as water base is not.

 

OK now you guy's are talking somthing I know about! The best finish is going to be a Marine Grade Polyurethane, If you seal with sanding sealer first you could get away with 2 coats of finish, if not you will need 3 or more coats to get the best results.
Do not thin the Poly with any mineral sprits, do not shake the can, Stir the material to get all the stuff that settles down to the bottom of the can, and use a good brush to apply the clear coats, The only thing i would worry about is the carb cleaner damaging the finish? Maybe a peice of tin would work better, just a thought.

 

great, i'll see if lowe's has some Marine Grade Poly.....and plenty of rags for when i work on the carbs.....

 

If you have a buffer you can spray a spritz of water on the top and then buff it out. What this does is re emulsifies the top coat from the heat generated and will bring the shine back, while taking out imperfections at the same time.

 

that's down the road, right?
I just per her together and haven't abused her yet.
haven't even bolted my 5" vice with anvil or my 6" bench grinder with gooseneck light on......starting out small....
have to take the coarse stone off the grinder and throw a wire wheel on it....I'll never use the coarse stone, and she has a medium on the other side.

 

That's down the road. Just trying to explain why you should not use water based products in this application.

 

If you want to keep it pretty then don't use it. 2nd the motion of putting masonite on top. An oil finish like tung oil can be used and easy to repair, oil- based poly would be more durable. A friend who owned a local bar covered the top of the bar with a 2 part epoxy finish that was very durable (until the place burned down)

 

what's "spar varnish" ?
it's the only one that said it withstands "marine conditions"
so i got it...but it says 2-4 coats, light sanding between each!

 

maybe i should have bought this
Cabot Stains Oil Polyurethane | Cabot

instead of what i bought tonight, this
Cabot Stains Spar Varnish Product | Cabot

 

Spar varnish is generally used for outside doors or other surfaces that will be exposed to the weather especially wet or humid conditions. Hope that helps.

 

thanks...that's what i noticed....so i figured it must be durable.....?

 

More durable as to wet and sunlight. However, as to objects being placed on it or (more to the point) hammered on it, not really. I am new to finishes but have been doing a lot of research on it lately as I have been refinishing my floors and I am going to redo the woodwork in my 90 plus year old home. From what I have gathered all finishes (other than oil finishes like Tung oil) can crack from being hit. I agree with the others that the only way to keep it looking good is to put something on top when working.