OK Here's the basic story.

Finished the truck up last week with the ATS upgrade kit, was driving the car around, only getting about 6-7 PSI showing on the boost gauge. Today I took the wastegate actuator arm off, turned it in about 3 full turns (just to see what I would get) and put it back on. Took the truck out for a drive and made a couple brief full throttle runs. First off, my gauge is still only showing 6-7 psi. Secondly, it doesn't even start showing boost until 1500+ RPM (even when I'm really getting on it) which also doesn't sound right.

I can sure as hell hear the turbo spooling up...I'm gonna have to take the gauge off and test it. I'm thinking there's either a problem with it (I DID buy it used) or that stupid nylon tubing that I plumbed it with.

 

Which way did you turn the rod? also you may have torn the diaphram in the waste gate. This didn't come about at the same time you put that shiny muffler on did it?

 

I turned it in, obviously :P I didn't turn the whole rod, of course. Just the end.

I would think if the diaphragm was torn, it would either not be opening at all or at a VERY low pressure or something like that. BTW I've had several other actuators that the rod spun inside of and I've never torn the diaphragm on any of them.

Also I haven't installed the muffler yet. Didn't get one of the strap clamps I was gonna use to install it.

 

Just had to ask to be sure thouse were the only things I could think of that could have changed when you adjusted the waste gate. Another stupid question though did it just start not building boost till 1500 or has it been doing that all along and there was no change when you adjusted th waste gate?

 

I didn't really pay attention to it before but I'm pretty sure it was doing the same thing. I recall winding it out and being surprised at how little boost I was seeing and how slow it seemed to come on (but, being used to gas motors, I don't always notice these things), especially since you can definitely hear the turbo spooling up by like 500 RPM.

I thought the EGT's seemed a bit low too. I forgot to look today, but last time I was really putting my foot into it and I could barely get 800 degrees (and that was my reading at the exhaust manifold). But Dave said that was pretty normal. I haven't taken it on any long drives since the pyrometer install.

I dunno, I'm gonna check the gauge first and foremost, and go from there.

 

Did you turn up the fule the recomended amount when you Did all you're mods? I'd also look for pre turbo exaust leaks or boost leaks. Of coure I think you have the right idea with testing your used boost gauge first.

The EGTS sound normal I've seen 1000 with a more restrictive exhaust and that was flooring it up a 5 mile grade to see how high my EGTs would go and The only reason i had to back off was i was doing about 90.

I'm sure Dave S. or David85 will be along with some wisdome for you.

 

The wastegate ATS uses has the rod attached to the diaphragm in a way that will tear the diaphragm if the rod into the actuator turns.

If the diaphragm tears, the wastegate will not open, but the line from the turbo to the actuator will be leaking boost through the actuator.

You may have to tun up the internal fuel screw, the external one you did your adjustment on just changes how much fuel is injected at lower RPM's.
The internal screw adjusts the max fuel delivery.

Do you still have the stock air filter box to over the battery intake scoop hooked up?
That thing is tiny and has to be causing an intake restriction.

Look carefully around all the turbo to intake hat connections.
If you have a leak on the pressure side of the turbo, it will show up as an oily film around the leak.

How much black smoke and when do you see it?

 

ghunt,
Before I did my mod, I could max boost at 10psi with the waste gate disconnected. After the mod, I can only max out at 5psi. I don't know how to explain it??

 

I turned up the external fuel screw like ATS's instructions said.

I thought the later model (turbo) injector pumps didn't have the internal screw? ATS makes no mention of it. And last time I tried to look in my side mirror, I wasn't seeing any smoke at all on acceleration. Where's the writeup on how to adjust the internal screw?

I do not have the filter box anymore. I have a 4" intake with a big AEM filter on it.

I guess I'll also test the wastegate actuator...

 

All DB2 IP's have an internal fuel screw.
The external fuel screw does not really adjust how much fuel is injected, what it adjusts is how much fuel is injected at lower engine RPM.
Big engines have what is known as an aneroid valve which is tied into the turbo boost that limits the amount of fuel injected at low boost pressure to limit smoke.
The so called torque screw on the DB2 pump does the same thing, but uses RPM only to limit the fuel.

On the passenger side of the IP there is a plate that looks like Home Plate in baseball held on by two bolts, 1/4" heads.
Remove both screws and carefully remove the plate, there is a thin rubber gasket behind the plate so use caution to not tear the gasket.
Also about a half pint of fuel will come out of the IP when the plate comes off, so a couple rags below the IP will catch the fuel.
Now use a 15/16" socket on the vibration dampener to rotate the engine till the timing mark is at 1 o'clock.
With an inspection mirror you should be able to look inside the IP and see the fuel adjustment screw.
If not, the adjustment screw is 180 degrees off, you need to rotate the engine exactly 360 degrees.
The IP makes one revotution for every two revolutions of the crankshaft.
Another way to check for correct alignment is to remove the IP drive gear bolt cover, when the IP alignment dowel is at 12 o'clock the fuel screw is visable.
Once the screw is in sight, you need a quality allen wrench, 5/32 or 3/16 I don't remember which right now.
Insert it in the fuel screw and turn it in one flat or 60 degrees which ever makes the most sense to you.
Make sure the allen wrench fits the screw good and is in all the way, you don't want to strip the screw or get metal particles inside the IP because of a poor quality wrench or the wrench was not inserted into the screw all the way.
Turn clockwise or in to increase fuel.
And if the screw bottoms out, turn it back just a little, having the fuel screw bottomed out has resulted in broken IP drive shafts before.

Now reinstall the cover plate, and go for a ride.
If you have to much bottom end smoke and none on the top end, you may have to turn the torque screw back in a turn or more to limit low RPM fuel delivery.

A little goes a long way on the fuel screw, after you adjust it do watch the pyrometer and boost gauge till you know what is going on.

When you can hit 1200 degrees climbing up to the Westover exit from the river bridge on 79 North with the truck in 5th and your throttle foot on the floor, you have enough fuel.

If anyone else uses these directions, you have to drive to Morgantown, WV to test your IP settings on I 79.

And a disclaimer,
IP fuel screw adjustments can and will raise your EGT's and can result in engine damage.
I do not recommend anyone make these adjustments unless you have a pyrometer installed.
EGT's over 1200 degrees measure in the exhaust manifold can result in melted pistons.
EGT's over 900 degrees with the pyrometer thermocouple after the turbo are the same as 1200 degrees in the exhaust manifold.

Neither FTE or myself assume any responsibility for engine damage resulting from using these instructions.

 

I'll have to try that this weekend. Maybe that's why I'm not seeing much boost.

Why do you have to use a mirror to see the internal screw? Can you see it with a flashlight?

 

Locate the plate that looks like home plate on the side of your IP and you'll see why you need the mirror. I don't think it possible to get your head in position to see the allen screw inside the IP.

 

Ah...that's kinda what I was thinking.

 

the easiest way for me to see it was to get on the drivers side and shine the light into the mirror but DO NOT try to put the allen wrench in and "feel" for it as you are turning the crank-my friend tried that and broke the allen wrench and chipped the screw. Know it should be common sense but sometimes you just can't help but be stupid

 

Here is a good picture of the plate.