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Yup, some have a thing like that that dangles in the hole, some have a dohicky that looks more like a smaller version the vent in the base of a radiator cap, some just a hole, some nothing. Nothing is a problem, and I prefer just a whole, it's more reliable, a little bit of coolant bypassing the thermostat certainly won't hurt anything. And by my thinking helps as it ensures the coolant under the thermostat is closer to the temperature in the rest of the engine, not just a stable pocket of cold coolant.
I like to learn something new everyday. That's my new thing for today. So can I go to bed now?
I flushed the heater core today… it was not hooked up so it may be leaking but I gave it a good flush and I can't see any seepage. I'm sure a good test drive will verify it's condition.
I also found an oversize, home made fitting coming out of the intake that had a heater by-pass hose connected to it… water pump direct to the intake. I'm going to have to heat up the intake and get that screwed out of there… the truck uses 5/8" hose… this is 3/4" in diameter.
I started about a week ago trying to change the valve cover gasket. As I posted in my other thread, I got the upper intake loose, but I'll have to remove the EGR in order to fully remove the upper intake. I guess the 1996 4.9L is not like the older 4.9L's since my EGR tube runs through both the upper and lower intake.
I'm going to soak the EGR connections in Kroil for a few more days before I try to tackle that again.
In the meantime, I started trying to replace the pushrod cover gasket. I got the first bolt off the distributor cap, but I snapped the 2nd one off. I tried using the reverse drill bit, but I think I need to remove the distributor. I tried to get at the bolt holding down the distributor clamp, but its TIGHT. And, I can't get a socket on it. I guess I need crow foot wrenches. It looks like the bolt is 1/2"? I tried my 13MM, but its loose and I don't want to round it off.
AUGH! Sometimes nothing goes right.
I'm going to call the JY's around me to get a new distributor. I have a feeling that I won't be able to get that bolt out.
I started about a week ago trying to change the valve cover gasket. As I posted in my other thread, I got the upper intake loose, but I'll have to remove the EGR in order to fully remove the upper intake. I guess the 1996 4.9L is not like the older 4.9L's since my EGR tube runs through both the upper and lower intake.
I'm going to soak the EGR connections in Kroil for a few more days before I try to tackle that again.
In the meantime, I started trying to replace the pushrod cover gasket. I got the first bolt off the distributor cap, but I snapped the 2nd one off. I tried using the reverse drill bit, but I think I need to remove the distributor. I tried to get at the bolt holding down the distributor clamp, but its TIGHT. And, I can't get a socket on it. I guess I need crow foot wrenches. It looks like the bolt is 1/2"? I tried my 13MM, but its loose and I don't want to round it off.
AUGH! Sometimes nothing goes right.
I'm going to call the JY's around me to get a new distributor. I have a feeling that I won't be able to get that bolt out.
The hold down is 1/2"… soak the base of the dizzy with a lot of that Kroil. You can gently tap 'up' on the underside of the dizzy to help loosen it's grip on the engine block, too.
Picked up an oil pan gasket. Tomorrow everything should be in for my parts but probably won't be able to work on it till next weekend as I have to help the neighbor this weekend.
Trav
So when I got my F-350 in July I noticed the heater hoses were 'jumped' coming from the water pump and going to the intake manifold. Someone had by-passed the heater core. Now you and I know what this usually means… leaky heater core.
Well today I pulled out the fitting (I use the term loosely) that was in the intake. It was an old chunk of 3/4" galvanized pipe… the 5/8" hose was stretched out to fit. Bad idea.
Due to space restraints I couldn't use a pipe elbow or "street L" so I grabbed a couple copper fittings and made my own set-up. Seems to work OK… too good, in fact, 'cuz now I KNOW I have a leaking heater core!
Sooner or later I'm going to pulled the front cover off and take a peek at that timing set… then I'll replace that crusty fitting coming out of the water pump, too.
Today i try to fix my ac......and didn't work well. Electronic panel works, fan doesn't blow, well it does whenever it want. Replace fan thinking it could be the issue.....and it wasn't. Drop truck at shop and they told me they don't know what can be the problem, they told me... go to the dealer.......and it is a rainy day....i almost forgot...my phone went down and the screen broke....
I got the locking lug nuts off the truck today. Oh yeah, the PO didn't leave the key in the truck or else the salvage yard threw it away. After several experiments I settled on welding a 5/8" bolt on to the end of the lug nut. It took a few tries on the first one, two tries on the second, and the third and fourth came on the first try. I'm stoked! Now I can get my front wheels off to figure out how much of the brake system to replace.
No comments from the peanut gallery on my booger welding. I have almost no experience and the last time I welded anything was 15 years ago using a fancy computer controlled Miller.
Darn autofocus! The computer should have known that I was taking a picture of the bolt in my hand, not the yard.
How to get off a locking lug nut without the key. No comments from the peanut gallery about my booger welding.
On the 92 F250: bought a new starter for it.
On the 91 F250: bough an original tail gate panel with one small dent with the red reflector for $20 and installed it.
On the 88 F150: got another set of head bolts this time for $4. turns out one set is for one side.
89 F250 drove to see if it is running right now. Seems when it doesn't have a load it stays cool. Put a load on it and it overheats. Not sure why yet.
Trav
Installed a new/used tilt column to "fix" a problem with the starter switch actuator rod at the ignition cylinder. In other words, rather than tear my non-tilt column apart to fix the actuator, I got a tilt column from a guy down the road from me, and just replaced the whole thing. Perfect.
At the same time, I finally installed my Borgeson steering shaft. Amazing! I no longer have the 20 degrees of play in the wheel, and the truck drives nice and straight down the road. I think it is a little better than my 03 SuperCrew. Except, in all my fiddling to fit the shaft, I got the wheel a bit cockeyed..
well I killed my truck!!! YAY!!!!!! (not really) trans went out on my truck so now im in the process of looking for upgrades to it so i can rebuild it and keep it for anouther 230K miles...
09-01-2014, 05:24 PM
