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Finished up the driver's side Radius Arm bushing this evening..
And yes, it CAN be done without pulling the wheel off, or the bracket.
My method for getting the Radius Arm up and back over about 3" to the Bracket's hole..
A piece of wood for leverage up, and my fat **** kicking it laterally.
And then used my come-along to pull the arm back and into place, and compress the bushing enough to allow me to reinstall the metal endcap and nut.
Once you got the rear nut off of the radius arm how did you get the axle forward enough to get the rails arm out of the bracket? I'm doing this tomorrow and I really don't want to drop the whole axle and I don't have what I need to grind off the rivets.
Today I replaced the exploded driver side radius arm bushing. I did it according to the manual and it was easy as pie. The only trouble I had was in trying to put the radius arm back in the bracket. I ended up putting a ratchet strap around it and the passenger side RA to hold the arm at the correct place right to left, and then I just grabbed the axle and lifted up and slid it into the bracket. It wasn't near as hard as some people made it out to be. I'll be doing the passenger side next weekend.
Rebuilt my ac system in the 91 and converted it to r152a. Yes you read that correctly. It works great and it got so cold in the truck on the highway that it hurt my hand lol. Probably high 30s or so while ambient was 106.
Replaced the worn out open diff with trashed carrier bearings with a new 31-spline Trac-Lok today. MUCH better.
Those are some trashed bearings, indeed. Love your electrical panel in your shop!! You must not have kids - or maybe you trust them more than I trust mine!
Replaced a leaking oil pan gasket. Contrary to the Ford service manual, I did not drain the coolant or remove engine mounts and lift engine 2"-3". I had about 3"-4" of drop between the bottom of the pan, and the top of the frame cross member. It was just enough room to get the job done. BTW, '96 F-150 4.9L 4x4.
Replaced a leaking oil pan gasket. Contrary to the Ford service manual, I did not drain the coolant or remove engine mounts and lift engine 2"-3". I had about 3"-4" of drop between the bottom of the pan, and the top of the frame cross member. It was just enough room to get the job done. BTW, '96 F-150 4.9L 4x4.
I need to do that. My 4.9 had been leaking slowly since I brought it home last March. It was leaking from the valve cover gasket, then the rear main seal and oil pan gasket started. Makes me want to pull it and see what else I can find wrong with it, the po half assed everything. I'd love to rebuild but it's just not worth the cost.
Once you got the rear nut off of the radius arm how did you get the axle forward enough to get the rails arm out of the bracket? I'm doing this tomorrow and I really don't want to drop the whole axle and I don't have what I need to grind off the rivets.
I did it with the wheels on the ground. Gave me leverage to roll the tire forward and pulled the radius arm stud clear of the bracket.
Most all dashcams run off of a mini-USB connection these days, so I picked up a Riorand 12V to USB converter off eBay and purchased a Belkin cable to connect it to the camera.
Those are some trashed bearings, indeed. Love your electrical panel in your shop!! You must not have kids - or maybe you trust them more than I trust mine!
No, I do not have children. I managed to grow up in that shop without incident, but I'm intelligent enough to respect electricity, power tools, sharp edges, and the like. The cover is off the panel due to a temporarily wired in circuit.