I just did a 4 wheel brake job on my buddy's vert. vair. That thing is clean

 

Today I decided to fix the "Empty at 1/4 tank" issue on my '94 CC 7.3L dually .

First I started on the rear tank. Not having any way to lift the bed, I had to do it the hard way and drop the tanks. First issue: The 2" receiver hitch was in the way... so I had to unbolt that V-5 150lb beast. Then I couldn't get a sipon hose to work to finish emptying the tank, which showed as 1/4 full on the gauge. Wrong!! When I dropped the tasnk onto my chest, I quickly realized it was a lot closer to half a tank... God it was heavy! Then, I could not get one of the quick disconnects to release... The supply line was no problem, but the return line wouldn't come loose for nothing. After fighting it for 3hrs.. I finally gave up and managed to remove the sending unit assembly with the tank hanging under the truck and the line attached. Then I found my gauge problem.. the float assembly wire was bent upwards.

After emptying the tank, I fitted a section of 3/8" fuel line to the end of the pickup tube, notching a V in the bottom so it wouldn't suck itself to the tank. Another hour of frustration and I had the tank refitted to the dangling sending unit assembly. After bolting the tank back in place, And remounting the hitch, I discovered the fuel filler neck hose laying in the truck bed.... Oops.
So, another hour contorting my hand into 12 different angles later, I managed to fit the hose unto the tank, and tighten the hose clamp.

No, I did not get to do the front tank... I sure hope it goes smoother than the rear tank did.

 

Wow that sounds like quite the job. All I did was finally replace those stupid door panel clips cause I got tired of my door constantly rattling all the time. Definently happier with it now lol.

 

Nice. I wish this one was clean, but my great grandpa has been carrying this thing around for 25 years. He finally decided he just wasn't gonna get it running and gave it to me.

It has some rust issues, mainly in the trunk seams and engine bay seams. The passenger door has 2 very small rust bubbles forming near the bottom which means the door has rusted through.

Once I do some more garage cleaning and get some funds together I am going to drop the motor and start rebuilding it. Once I have it running and driving reliably I will work on the body of the car.

 

I got the blasted air dryer canister thing in after getting assistance from a local shop to literally break off the bolts holding the rusted unit in place and i was tired of fighting it for a few months before hand and then last night I pulled a vaccume on the entire system so Im hoping that I got it all sorted well, filled the canister but I think the liquid from the can got into it, so I hope thats ok for the type of canister dryer/accumilator but ehh, it appears to work so I suppose its good.

also recieved the head lamps I ordered yesterday so im excited to get them on, and will be fighting those tonight and tomorrow night


my girl is looking younger and younger each day I fix something

 

Just a small update. Took Michelle in for the reaming 2 tires she needed.

$177.31 for 2, Mastercraft P235/75/15's mounted, balanced and the guy rotated the other new ones to the front for free.

Also, diagnosed 2 issues.

#1) The Axle Pivot bushings are SHOT. When I take off, I sometimes hear the classic "Clunk!" from it wiggling around. I already have the new bushings ($35.00? I can't remember) and the guy will install them for $80.00 (Sounds high, til you realize I have 0 air tools, no lift, and no truly level ground OR the ball joint press ($60.00-300.00) to do it with, and then the added part of me with back issues.)

#2) The truck kinda does a little "Bunny hop" when lightly braking from 35mph to a stop.

I had previously replaced the Rear Brake Drums with the new ones off Ethel, the 1994 F-150 I had previously (Was only installed 3 months before the accident). As I suspected, they were getting oblonged/worn in an elliptical shape, rather than round.

Cost for that is:

Labor for entire axle:$50.00
Turning each brake Drum down: $15/side, so $30.00
Brake Shoes: $35-ish (Gonna put Motorcraft on this time. I HATE the Wearever's from the partshouses.

So, to recap...Another $200.00 will have everything driving and stopping correctly!

*Also, Michelle turned 219,000 miles old yesterday.

 

Took a look at the transmission, rear shifter fork was shot. Fixed it, now have reverse again. Loaded up then flatbed with recycling and made a few bucks. All in all a good day

 

We got started on the rear headrest project today. I know the back seat in an extended cab isn't actually meant to be occupied (no engineer would be that cruel), but if it ever is, I hate the thought of someones head going through the glass if I get rear ended.

Linky to a picture. It's not finished yet, obviously. I need to get a dremel so I can cut the rear trim panel to fit, we forgot to buy enough hardware for both headrests, and then it needs to be prettied up and fine-tuned so it's less ghetto-looking. We're on the right track though I think, it's even adjustable (with a socket, but still adjustable!)

 

I'll be attempting to find the culprit to why my turn signal won't click off automatically today and I may throw in a shifter bushing because that's been driving me nuts having my shifter move as much in gear as it does when it's out.

 

Well finally out hunting for parts....
Lookin what I found

 

Got my new 17" Centerline Billet Trigon wheels installed. These things have been sitting on the shelf at work for 12 years so I worked out an overtime deal with the bossman.

 

Not to shabby huh?



Tutorial/How-to here

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...al-how-to.html

 

No news on my side... my parts are somewhere in Venezuela, yet to be delivered to me.

 

Nice job, looks really good.

 

Didn't do much besides vacuum out the truck clean the windows the little things that make a vehicle so much nicer. The cool stuff will have to wait awhile longer