What have you done to your truck today?
Put the new throttle position sensor on the '91, along with a coolant temperature sensor. TPS fixed that problem, coolant temp sensor didn't do anything. Must be a problem with the wiring, the gage goes to full scale on the zero side and have a code about it. Took off the tailgate access cover & took the handle & latches out, cleaned them up and soaked them down in chain & cable fluid. Now the gate is super easy to work.
I bought a set of those ratcheting GearWrench things today, Advance has the 5-piece set for 50% off at 14.99 so I picked up a standard & a metric. WOW they work great!
I bought a set of those ratcheting GearWrench things today, Advance has the 5-piece set for 50% off at 14.99 so I picked up a standard & a metric. WOW they work great!
Fixed Radio
Hello Guys!
I found the bulb for my radio at Batteries Plus and installed it and the Radio and now I can start on something else.
I plan on going to the boneyard tomorrow, weather permitting, and search for a 3G Alternator, Idler Pulley and some miscellaneous items.
Keep on Trucking!
Mark
I found the bulb for my radio at Batteries Plus and installed it and the Radio and now I can start on something else.
I plan on going to the boneyard tomorrow, weather permitting, and search for a 3G Alternator, Idler Pulley and some miscellaneous items.
Keep on Trucking!
Mark
I should probably do the same. 130 amps -- or even 95 -- from a 3G would make me lots happier than the 65 from the 2G that's in there now.
Then again this truck has dealt me more than one surprise, starting with steel reinforcements in the rubber exhaust hangers that ate the edge right off a brand-new Buck lock blade. I am a little leery of starting another project on it until I get my money's worth out of it.
Then again this truck has dealt me more than one surprise, starting with steel reinforcements in the rubber exhaust hangers that ate the edge right off a brand-new Buck lock blade. I am a little leery of starting another project on it until I get my money's worth out of it.
There are also 100 amp 2g alternators out there. That's what I'll go to if my 65 amp ever goes. I'm on a v-belt, so 3g gets even harder and it may even drag too much for the v-belt.
I should probably do the same. 130 amps -- or even 95 -- from a 3G would make me lots happier than the 65 from the 2G that's in there now.
Then again this truck has dealt me more than one surprise, starting with steel reinforcements in the rubber exhaust hangers that ate the edge right off a brand-new Buck lock blade. I am a little leery of starting another project on it until I get my money's worth out of it.
Then again this truck has dealt me more than one surprise, starting with steel reinforcements in the rubber exhaust hangers that ate the edge right off a brand-new Buck lock blade. I am a little leery of starting another project on it until I get my money's worth out of it.
Take Care
Mark
Welding on any pulley could warp it and cause premature belt wear, also getting it centered exactly can be a real PITA. I suggest going to broncoair.com and get their hybrid PS pulley. It's a little spendy but works great. They also have the bracket to mount the York pump on top of the factory AC pump.
You should also get a check valve. This lets the pressure bleed off the pump so it don't have to start under pressure. I think I bought mine from Grainger.com. I ran 1/2" from compressor to the tank(s) and then 1/4" to the lanyard valve for the air horn and pressure gauge. I found a used gauge from a Kenworth truck and mounted that in the dash. The pressure switch I used is a 110v from Menards and it had a pressure relief valve on it so I cut the Schrader valve off the discharge side of the compressor and tapped the hole to 1/8" pipe thread. This releases the pressure between the pump and the check valve.
Very handy to have a steady source of compressed air with you on the road. I've used a 1/2" air impact with it and had no problems plus it only takes a few minuets to inflate 33x12.50 r15 tires.
You should also get a check valve. This lets the pressure bleed off the pump so it don't have to start under pressure. I think I bought mine from Grainger.com. I ran 1/2" from compressor to the tank(s) and then 1/4" to the lanyard valve for the air horn and pressure gauge. I found a used gauge from a Kenworth truck and mounted that in the dash. The pressure switch I used is a 110v from Menards and it had a pressure relief valve on it so I cut the Schrader valve off the discharge side of the compressor and tapped the hole to 1/8" pipe thread. This releases the pressure between the pump and the check valve.
Very handy to have a steady source of compressed air with you on the road. I've used a 1/2" air impact with it and had no problems plus it only takes a few minuets to inflate 33x12.50 r15 tires.
I don't have factory air so that mount doesn't sound like it will help and I want the satisfaction of making it myself. Will talk to the senior weld lab professor to see what he thinks about welding the pulley on...
I have a 175 psi check valve at the tank as well as a drain ****; Is it bad for the compressor to start with pressure in the system? 120-150 psi pressure switch under the hood.
having trouble getting the ends in the lines to crimp them; going home friday for thanksgiving break and my dad will help me.
I filled the tank on the beast this evening. I calculated 10.7 MPG. All that start-and-stop city traffic I put it through on this last tank, along with 60+ MPH speeds, is killing me. Even with the speedometer reading about 8% fast, according to my GPS, correcting for the error only gives me 11.6 MPG.
This next tank I'll keep it out of city traffic as much as I can and hold speeds down to 55 to see what effect that has on my mileage.
This next tank I'll keep it out of city traffic as much as I can and hold speeds down to 55 to see what effect that has on my mileage.
I filled the tank on the beast this evening. I calculated 10.7 MPG. All that start-and-stop city traffic I put it through on this last tank, along with 60+ MPH speeds, is killing me. Even with the speedometer reading about 8% fast, according to my GPS, correcting for the error only gives me 11.6 MPG.
This next tank I'll keep it out of city traffic as much as I can and hold speeds down to 55 to see what effect that has on my mileage.
This next tank I'll keep it out of city traffic as much as I can and hold speeds down to 55 to see what effect that has on my mileage.
'96 F250 HD extended cab, 5.8L, E4OD, and 4.10 gears with 235k. I got 13.8 out of it on a highway/limited-access highway road trip about three weeks ago. (I goofed when I told the GPS I wanted lowest-mileage instead of shortest-time, and it took me through a bunch of small towns until I figured out I was going to be late to where I was going and jumped on the Interstate.)