I spent three hours on the road today driving around without an exhaust system (just the semi-rusted "Y" pipe - everything else is in the bed at the moment). Gave me a nice headache.

I then spent two hours trying to remove (or snap) the exhaust bolts that hold the "Y" pipe to the two exhaust manifolds - no luck. Tried a mapp torch, PB blaster, and good old fashioned "leverage", i.e. a 4' pipe slipped over a 1/2" x 36" long breaker bar.

Now I have a headache AND skinned knuckles, and the "Y" pipe is still on there!

Fun day. Guess I'm setting myself up for a headache tomorrow as well

 

bummer deal man.. good luck!

 

That's where air tools come in very handy. You have a friend with some compressed air? It'll pop it right off.

 

I got some Vanilla deodoriser!
Now just have to stop getting hungry all the time while sniffing it!

 

i always preferred pina colada

 

I got the vanilla because thats what the michelin man on my windscreen had in it!
Now i think that the best way to fill him up would be to inject him with it!

 

Oh, I have air. The threads of the nuts are rusted to the studs of course, that's to be expected, but the underside of the nut seems to be rusted to the flange as well. I also tried my electric impact gun thinking maybe that would have better luck but no.

I have a feeling I'll have to risk snapping the 10 factory original studs on the heads and take the manifolds off and cut the rusty y-pipe so I can work on this mess on the workbench. I was just hoping to avoid the opportunity to break more studs lol.

Maybe I'll pull out my bottles and torch it a bit. I just don't like flame near an oil-soaked engine.

 

If you have a torch or grinder, use it. Pop the heads off and use an air chisel or a BFH and a punch to knock the rest out. It'd take some time and a direct flame to ignite the oil leaks on your engine.

 

If you have room,use a nut splitter on them,then they will turn for you,if not,get the big torch out and go for it,heat the boss up on the manifold red hot and pull the studs out,then you can put nice new studs and nuts on when you put her back together.Way back when,Ford used to use brass nuts on them and that was cool as long as you didn't have much stud sticking through,because the threads on the stud would rust up,then the brass nut would strip and just set there and spin and that would **** you off. lol. I hate old rusty exhausts,always have,knuckle skinning,finger smashing sob's.Good luck 'ole buddy.

 

I can't get an angle grinder in there, it's too tight. I probably could get a die grinder (air) with a carbide burr in there if I had to. I'll look at it again tomorrow when it's light.

I'm embarrassed to admit I didn't even think of a nut splitter, considering I have a drawer full of 'em. I'll try that also.

I tend to fine until I get so frustrated with something then I just can't think anymore lol.

Thanks for the tips guys. Good stuff indeed.

 

I did that yesterday. And last weekend...

 

Finally got around to fitting the rubber moulding to the tope edges of my tray so that the paint wont get chipped and scratched up when loading and unloading !
Just used 50mm wide black side mooulding that is used on sedans.
Has double sided tape along each side which stuck on pretty good!

 

yeah i will be doing it again when i drive my truck tomorrow probably lol..

 

replaced window crank

 

A couple days ago, I changed my T-case oil and drained+refilled my crankcase to install on oversize drain plug.