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Took the headliner out of the 97 since it was sagging enough to blow in the wind. I was considering using black material this time instead of grey, since I eventually would like to convert the whole interior to black.
But I'm kind liking it without the headliner.
Son in law was using the blue & white truck for moving and had an issue where the top radiator hose got cut by the power steering pump pulley. He put a new hose on and got going. I started my day today by draining enough fluid out of the radiator to remove the top hose again. I trimmed another 1/2" off the end at the radiator to pull the hose further away from the pulley. Topped her back off with fluid and drove for an hour (hauling trash) to prove the repair. Only thing now is one of the pulleys has a chirp, squeal. Gotta take care of that, it's on the to do list.
Back to the '91, the driveway queen with codes 56, 91, 99. But first to drop the pan and check things out. First I removed the rear line on the tranny that comes from the radiator and put a big drain pan under it. Cranked the truck and let a lot of fluid run out, when it started looking like the sump was near empty I cut the engine off. Now remove all but the two bolts at the front of the pan and let the pan fall down and drain more fluid. Now the pan is light enough I could drop it. WOW, that is the way to do that. Thanks for this forum for the tip on using the rear line to the tranny to empty it!
The filter came down with the pan. I don't think it had fallen out of the pump, a common complaint with E4OD's. Plus my symptoms didn't match the problem of the filter dropping out of the pump. I believe this tranny has been serviced before, the gasket comes off just fine and it's a Wix filter. I had a new one and wasn't going to reuse anything, but I could have.
I let the tranny drip while I cleaned the pan. Then took a look at the solenoid valves. They are behind a plastic cover, which reveals a printed circuit board. Amazing you can have a printed circuit board covered in tranny fluid. No obvious problems.
Then I used the Stay Put Filter Clip to secure the new filter:
You can get one from here: E4OD, 4R100 Transmission from PATC, E4OD, 4R100
It's only $6 but with shipping and handling its just shy of $16.
Then I put the pan on. I measured the tranny fluid I took out by pouring it into old oil jugs. It was about 6 quarts. Then I put 5 quarts in the tranny.
Still no first gear, I hadn't really done anything to fix that, time to move to the E4OD tranny plug wiring with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190820576057?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITWhich is an excellent troubleshooting tool. All you have to do is plug this into the tranny and then you can use a meter to ohm out the solenoid valves, EPC circuit, and the transmission temperature sensor. All of which is what causes my codes 56, 91, and 99.
When plugging in the replacment flying lead harness I noticed it felt different than the wire plug on the truck. This turned out to be important. All the stuff inside the transmission checked fine with a meter. Which I was pretty sure it would, since the transmission works one day and then not the next.
Then when I went to plug the truck wires back into the tranny I spent extra time wiggling and seating it.
I then pulled codes. CODE 11 for KOEO!!! Still had 56 and 99 in continous memory so I used the scan tool to clear those codes. Took a drive and she's fixed. Not a driveway queen anymore!
Also installed the new driver side power window regulator, now both doors have new ones and they are quiet and fast.
While the first one I did on the passenger side took a while, I had this one changed out in less than 30 minutes (door panel was already off).
Now I still have to replace the power door lock actuators and they look like a beast. I think I will pay to have these done by someone who has done them. Can't see, have to feel.
Went on a junkyard crawl with my daughter and scored a replacement wiper motor, instrument cluster, factory jack & handle, cheap aftermarket stereo, and a '88 owner's manual. Not bad for only a couple of hours scrounging.
I'm going to have to transplant the speedo into my cluster since I couldn't find one with a tach from a 6 cylinder. There were a couple there, but they were pretty mangled. I nabbed a nice cluster from a V8 truck and will swap just the speedometer into the original cluster. The wiper motor is another attempt at making the wipers work reliably. I started with a switch, but that hasn't made much difference. Hopefully replacing the motor will straighten everything up.
After that, it's back to hunting down the idle surge. It is much better than when I bought it, but it still has its moments. I've cleared up all the issues throwing KOEO codes and need to run the KOER test to see what develops there. I've been told the gasket between the upper and lower intakes are prone to leaking, so I have one ready to be installed if need be. I also need to check the ignition timing, but the wandering idle speed makes that rather difficult.
The truck slid to the back burner when my boys were less than enthusiastic about driving it, but now my daughter is old enough for her permit. She's been chomping at the bit to drive it since I brought it home so I need to get busy on it.
I'm going to have to transplant the speedo into my cluster since I couldn't find one with a tach from a 6 cylinder. There were a couple there, but they were pretty mangled. I nabbed a nice cluster from a V8 truck and will swap just the speedometer into the original cluster.
As long as it came from a gasser, it's plug and play. Number of cylinders makes no difference.
As long as it came from a gasser, it's plug and play. Number of cylinders makes no difference.
That's news to me. Over in the van forums, there's a whole discussion on transplanting a F-Series cluster with a tach into the E-Series vans. They're pretty adamant that if you have the V10, you need a cluster from a V10 truck so the tach will read right. I assumed that the same applied to others as well.
Still no first gear, I hadn't really done anything to fix that, time to move to the E4OD tranny plug wiring with this: Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/190820576057?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Which is an excellent troubleshooting tool. All you have to do is plug this into the tranny and then you can use a meter to ohm out the solenoid valves, EPC circuit, and the transmission temperature sensor. All of which is what causes my codes 56, 91, and 99. 56 = Transmission oil temperature sensor fault 91 = Shift Solenoid 1 (SS1) circuit failure 99 = Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) circuit failure When plugging in the replacment flying lead harness I noticed it felt different than the wire plug on the truck. This turned out to be important. All the stuff inside the transmission checked fine with a meter. Which I was pretty sure it would, since the transmission works one day and then not the next. Then when I went to plug the truck wires back into the tranny I spent extra time wiggling and seating it. I then pulled codes. CODE 11 for KOEO!!! Still had 56 and 99 in continous memory so I used the scan tool to clear those codes. Took a drive and she's fixed. Not a driveway queen anymore!
Interesting tool! Cool find, I'll have to grab one. Thanks for sharing!
That's news to me. Over in the van forums, there's a whole discussion on transplanting a F-Series cluster with a tach into the E-Series vans. They're pretty adamant that if you have the V10, you need a cluster from a V10 truck so the tach will read right. I assumed that the same applied to others as well.
OBS never had a V10, but if it did that would put a twist on things, and be REALLY COOL!!!
I replaced front bearings and seals on my '96 F150 4X4. First time I've ever done this, which is my excuse for forgetting to put one of the seals in. I'm hoping it's not that important because:
1) They weren't installed by the PO
2) The service manual calls for them on F150's and Broncos only - not F250's and above - why?, and
3) I downloaded the blow-up diagram of my exact axle from Dana-Spicer based on my axle tag, and they are not shown in that diagram.
So, what do you guys think? Should I go back in and install them? It is #6 in this diagram, the "Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal". As you can see, #7 is the grease seal, and #8 is the inner race and bearing.
It would be a tight squeeze. The 2 valve V10 is wider than a 460 and the 3 valve is wider still...
I still would love to swap a V10 into a nice 87-96 ford truck but as of right now the price of V10s with a good ZF6 and a manual tcase would be a fortune plus it would be easiest if I had a whole donor truck.
Trav
Yesterday I just worked on my patch panel replacement (Almost finished with the D/S wheel arch!)
And removed the Reese hitch.
It was crusty and a mortal PITA to remove, but it's done.
Deciding whether to clean it up and re-install it or just keep the clean look the truck has now. Also, now I can remove the ball hitch from my bumper (The Reese Hitch impeded that)
That's news to me. Over in the van forums, there's a whole discussion on transplanting a F-Series cluster with a tach into the E-Series vans. They're pretty adamant that if you have the V10, you need a cluster from a V10 truck so the tach will read right. I assumed that the same applied to others as well.
Well imagine that - it worked like a charm. I didn't think engineers were allowed to make something that compatible...
10-25-2014, 03:08 PM
I didn't think engineers were allowed to make something that compatible...