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What have you done to your truck today?

  #1561  
Old 01-29-2010, 04:48 AM
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Scored a freebee reman alternator. It's always nice to have a spare.
 
  #1562  
Old 01-29-2010, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Redcat Diesel
Scored a freebee reman alternator. It's always nice to have a spare.
Nothing wrong with spares...I've been growing my collection of spare parts for a few months now.
 
  #1563  
Old 01-29-2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by daveyboy1
Realzed I need a stall converter. truck wants to drive through the brakes at a stop light, and found a bad u joint causing a nice vibration.
like buster said....also, proportioning valve?
 
  #1564  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 300 Buster
Maybe your rear brakes need adjusted? I used to run into to that on my vehicles in the winter,come up on a stop sign and have the back tires drive me right on by,usually the cold fast idle didn't help either.Once I adjusted the rear brakes,everything was good again.Usually if they were self adjusting,I'd do a few reverse panic stops,but if the shoes are bad,or adjusters not working,then it's more work.You don't realize it because the front brakes do so much braking,but actually your brakes aren't real good because your back ones are putting it all on the front.It's real common on automatics because we get used to backing up and dropping it in forward gear without really using much brake,so they don't adjust.
Brakes are brand new and properly adjusted. Idles barley at 900 rpm The cam is a tad large. truck used to be a manual trans. brakes worked good for the tiny 352 but are a bit taxed when it comes to all the extra torque of the 406. Need to get the converter for street strip duty as well as one with an anti balloning blate for use with nitrous.
 
  #1565  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:51 AM
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nitrous?? wow, youre makin a real monster there, aint ya? lol.
 
  #1566  
Old 01-30-2010, 10:39 AM
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Yeah Im hoping for low 12's in the 1/4
 
  #1567  
Old 01-30-2010, 11:01 AM
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Hit up ebay for a set of original shop manuals from 1992.
 
  #1568  
Old 01-30-2010, 11:38 AM
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Finally solved my rear-brake-lock-up issue.

OK, so I actually did it on Thursday when it was 60* here in Central VA, but I am just getting to post about it now.

If any of you remember, I had been having a problem with my rear brakes locking up if I as much as toe'ed the pedal.

I put new front pads and some lightly-used rotors on the front.

When I initially pulled the rear drums I found a TON of brake dust, but the shoes looked decent. Not worn to the rivets, not glazed, scored, etc...

I went out and bought all of the pieces-and-parts to re-do them anyway (new shoes, wheel cyls and spring kits). Thursday morning I realized I did not get new adjusters and was gonna run to Advance and grab them when it hit me...

Maybe they are just REALLY far out of adjustment!

Sho'nuf when I actually checked the adjusters they were run nearly all the way out.

I backed them all the way down, then threaded them out until I just felt a little drag when I spun the drum by hand, and then backed off one thread from there.

(That is how I learned to adjust drum brakes a long time ago.)

I was at about 3 1/2 threads showing.

Test drive resulted in slight lock-up, but not nearly as bad as before so I backed the adjusters off two more threads to about 1 1/2 showing and took it for another drive.

No more lock-up. I currently have a distinct front-brake bias, but can feel the rears grab during hard stops.

I am gonna run it like this for a couple days since I am sure the new front pads never seated in to the used rotors, then maybe tweak the rear adjusters a thread or so to even out the braking load a little bit.

I actually got out and up to speed a little bit running errands after I put it back together and it seems to have solved some of my tranny issues too!

The E4OD kept kicking in to OD any time I lifted off the throttle, regardless of vehicle speed.

It did a that A LOT less after tinkering with the brakes.

My gut is now telling me that the draging rear brakes were causing the signal from the VSS to not jive with the engine RPM's and the computer was trying to reconcile the two by up-shifting.

Sometime next week after the snow stops, I'll clear the codes, start driving it again and see what happens.

Wow... this turned in to a LOOOOONG post... but 'eh, I ain't been around here in a while...

-cmc-
 
  #1569  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:53 PM
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Cussed at it...Ball joints are a bitch!
 
  #1570  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:11 PM
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brushed off the snow, took battery out to charge it.
 
  #1571  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:21 PM
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bought some degreaser....but didnt mess with the snow. maybe tomorrow
 
  #1572  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jplinville
Cussed at it...Ball joints are a bitch!
OTC Makes a kick *** ball joint tool. makes ball joints easy!!
 
  #1573  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by daveyboy1
OTC Makes a kick *** ball joint tool. makes ball joints easy!!
I'm borrowing the C-clamp style press from the 'Zone. I just had a buddy stop by and drop off a gear puller (mine are still packed in a box somewhere or left in Ohio) and we were able to pull the spindle off finally and pull the shaft out. I should have this driver's side wrapped up tonight. He's coming back tomorrow morning to help me with the passenger side.
 
  #1574  
Old 01-30-2010, 07:09 PM
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Get some penetrating lube and your all set
 
  #1575  
Old 01-30-2010, 07:48 PM
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Ball joints are easy with the right tools, ive neved used a pilled on the spindle, just use a soft mallet or deadblow mallet and beat it till its lose, the ball joints are the easy parts, gettin to em stinks.

I got my truck back from body shop, fixed what i complained about, and they put my emblims on, and bedside decals, went to pick it up, wouldnt start. Tried to jump it, nope, tried banging on the 2 year old starter. Heard it clickin now. Damn needed starter, oh wait lifetime warante. Went to get tools, figured id try it again, fired up. Changed starter and looked at her for a bit. Still dont believe i got it done up.
 

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