i sent ya an email through FTE. Bout your SAS with the newer style arms
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Just another zombie. my rig:
09 f-150 6" body lift, TTB front,stacked rear blocks,BFG A/T, Fuzzy Dice
Ok so apparently some small minded people dont understand that the truck in this signature is a combination of many sarcasims. Please quit being stupid and study up before you run your mouth about it.
Karl,
they werent expensive. Item # 760-68054 from Jegs $14.99. I didnt even check felpros price.
I think Im going to do some work on my stealth when I tear the motor down. Post some after pics if you dont mind. Better yet put it in your head porting thread.
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Kris
Please do not PM me. My email is STGCountryboy312 at AOL dot COM
i have been wondering.... am i the only one running three computer monitors here? i'm worried work is making me too geeky
-cutts-
I have a 27inch monitor
I run duals sometimes with the laptop and the 27inch.. but normally just the gigantor one by itself.
taking a break from brakes. soft pedal.. new front pads, bled the brakes, and now I adjusted that little rod inside the master cylinder, it got a little better... any other ideas? I think i'm going to turn the rod out a little more and see what happens .. whats the right amount to adjust this thing by? I just did one complete turn..
yeah, bled all 4 corners. I did not adjust the rears though.. I have to spin that thingy through the hole.. until it just barely grabs when I spin and then back off a little?
I adjusted the rod a little more and the pedal got a lot better, but it still doesn't feel quite right.
Would a vacuum leak cause a high idle? One of the plugs for the splitter that comes off the manifold in the rear is missing or fell off somehow.
I just need enough brakes to get me though wheelin saturday.
Yeah, the leak would cause a higher idle. Yeah, thats how you adjust them.
If you get it to where you're positive there is no air in the system, and everything is adjusted right, and you still have problems, I would bet some rubber lines are to blame.
I have braided stainless everywhere but from the hard lines to the front calipers .. but they're probably the original lines.
As for bleeding.. you open it, have someone step on the pedal, close it and then they let go, repeat until no air comes out? Just making sure I was doing it right - driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger rear was the order we did it in if that matters.
You bleed the lines right, but the order wasn't...
Some people say the order doesn't matter, others do.....
I usually follow the correct order b/c I'm to lazy to do it twice if another doesn't work, but anyway, you're suposed to start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder/booster.
So:
Passenger rear
Driver rear
Passenger front
driver front
Don't know if it 'really' makes a difference if you don't follow it.
Vacuum leaks are a pest to track down, and can cause several problems....
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79 Bronco 400 C6 NP205 D44 9" 4.56 gears Lockers 6" lift and 37" SS Iroks
77 F-100 302 C4 D44 31" M/Ts
04 F150 Lariat Screw 4x4 2"AS 32x11R17 Hankook M/Ts or 34x10.50-17 SS LTBs
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