YOUR ****TING ME>..........damn......Well, HAPPY BIRTHDAY anyways......i still owe ya' one for that sign......maybe a case of the BL when you come down for mudfest eh?
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Nick
STG's Minions: Sergeant at Arms
The Rockwell/4-link/anything Badass Specialist!
Dont be a puss, RUN ROCKS!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebay Assjack
The truck was lifted with the custom frame as seen in pix. (the best way to lift a truck!!!)
Kris, how'd your intake turn out with the gasket matching of that? The heads look great on the intake side, but the question is did you do the same thing on the exhaust side? The flow needs to be smooth on both sides to really make a difference.
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Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
On another note, what's ya'lls opinions on mini spools? I was just planning on welding the spiders up in the 9" for the ranger, and see a ton of the mini spools on evilbay for aroun $20 or less. So instead of welding the gears, and risk not getting enough penetration, I starting thinking about the mini. This way if it doesn't work out all that well, I can still go the true full spool route and just keep the open carrier and mini option as an emergency spare.
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Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
But can't be worse than welding on the 9", can it? There really isn't that much room to get decent penetration all the way around on the stock carrier.
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Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
Mini spools..........well, Nick summed it up, but if you don't do rocks or have big tires, and you put a chromoly cross pin, then they'll last.
Are you going to change the gear ratio while your in there?
If so, might be worth looking into buying a whole new center section.... that's what I did (4.56 nascar gears, Timken Bearings, spool, and shipped for about $500) not the cheapest route, but you have a whole center section left to do what ever you want. My shop wanted to charge me $300 alone for labor to change gears on the 9" ... if I had everything to do it my self I would of, b/c it's nothing to do a 9".
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79 Bronco 400 C6 NP205 D44 9" 4.56 gears Lockers 6" lift and 37" SS Iroks
77 F-100 302 C4 D44 31" M/Ts
04 F150 Lariat Screw 4x4 2"AS 32x11R17 Hankook M/Ts or 34x10.50-17 SS LTBs
There may not be alot of access to weld a 9 inch up, but I did mine and I haven't had a problem with it yet. Granted it's only a 300 with 32's, but I haven't been nice to it (cookies anyone?)
Kris: is the lifter valley on your block painted? or is that just raw cast?
YOUR ****TING ME>..........damn......Well, HAPPY BIRTHDAY anyways......i still owe ya' one for that sign......maybe a case of the BL when you come down for mudfest eh?
Only if you help me drink it.
Karl,
The intake matches perfect to the heads. The pics you gave help tremendously but about 30seconds after I sinched it down I realized...no pics. I found very little casting flash under the carb mounting flange. I bought a flex shaft for a dremel and Im pretty sure I cleaned the entire runner. I didnt touch the divider. On the exhaust side of the heads they are matched to the gaskets but my headers are going to be the restrictive part. I thought they were 1 7/8 but they are 1 3/4. The flange will open up to match the exhaust port but its not that great meeting the tubes. I would say its 10-20cfm from being as absolutely perfect as it can get both intake and exhaust.
I really wish I could find 2" or 2 1/8" primary headers to fit my frame without having something custom built.
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Kris
Please do not PM me. My email is STGCountryboy312 at AOL dot COM
most people that paint them do it and dont know why they do. but the ones who do paint it because they paint gives the oil a smooth flow and is usually only done in full race engines. there really isnt much of a benifit on a street engine. and if you dont paint it right the paint flakes off and then you have more problems then youd ever want if a drain gets plugged.
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