Well karl i might ups them to ya. figure out a price an we can go from there
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Just another zombie. my rig:
09 f-150 6" body lift, TTB front,stacked rear blocks,BFG A/T, Fuzzy Dice
Ok so apparently some small minded people dont understand that the truck in this signature is a combination of many sarcasims. Please quit being stupid and study up before you run your mouth about it.
Andrew,
Ive got some info on porting a 300 head. IIRC you do not want to "polish" only port because something to do with the rougher surface being better. Ill dig it all up and get back with you.
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Kris
Please do not PM me. My email is STGCountryboy312 at AOL dot COM
The rough surface helps with the A/F ratio, by suspending or holding the fuel droplets. if the surface is too smooth, the fuel will just fall and puddle in the intake. Or something like that IIRC
Get the kit from Eastwood. It has 80grit drums and cones. As for the intake side, your right, don't go to mirror finish, as was already stated, the surface needs some roughness to keep a little turbulence in the air/fuel stream so that the fuel that was mixed in at the carb stays suspended and doesn't puddle in the intake. That would be a very bad thing as enough get in and 1 early spark, then boom your intake throws the carb up and out of the hood.
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Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
Yeah, the only problem with "generic porting" is that it doesn't always work out that well. You need to know how much and wherre to remove material from the specific head to benifit. Like on the D3's, for example, I need to shape the exhaust ports slightly differently than I would on a D0VE, and for the later fulie heads, the shape again is totally different. Just be careful, as my tech wasn't meant to be gospel, just an idea of how easy it is to do on your own.
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Karl
I'm the Voice of Reason
FTE - Where signatures get edited with no explination why.
Karl nice write up, I would like to add a little either for you or anyone that decides to do this in the future especially when adding larger valves on either or both sides. What I do is go ahead and take the bare heads into your machine shop have them do the hot tank, mag and pressure test them (it really sucks to do a bunch of work on a set of cracked heads) next if your going to have hardened seats installed NOW is the time. then give them the valves you intend on using if larger and have them just rough cut the seats but don't actually do the valve grind (basically tell them why, that you want to go back in and do a bowl blend to match the rough seats and the hardened exhaust seats they installed but don't want to have to worry about messing up the valve job) Then do your port and bowl blend and port work THEN take them back for the finish valve job and any other work your going to have done like surface, cut for guide plates etc.
I do it this way just do to keeps you from having to do the bowl blend twice.
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