fuel leak, Valley full of fuel
#1
fuel leak, Valley full of fuel
OK folks, I had the fuel leak, ending up on the starter then down to the flywheel cover....went to ford.......they said loose bolt on the fuel pump at the "Y" for the hoses.........they tightened it and said if that doesn't cure it then I'll need a new copper washer........so my question........exactly how do you get to the valley and how hard is it.........to get to the fuel pump......can someone give me a how to...............may do it myself if it happens again...............also I would tend to think if you were in there (at the fuel pump) and think a new copper washer might be needed at some point.......wouldn't you just put it on before tightening the loose bolt........I mean how much can a copper washer cost...........this same dealer once put block sealer in my engine without asking.......a couple of years ago.
For those folks with a 96 and have a little seepage of coolant on their oil filters I found a ford bulletin that said some blocks were milled a little close at the factory and was prone to this.....there was a fix.......but it must be done by the factory...........and all the time I thought I had block porosity.......You think ford dealer would have known this and be up on his bulletins. I never would have let him put block sealer in my engine if he had asked. I would have just dealt with a little seepage.
For those folks with a 96 and have a little seepage of coolant on their oil filters I found a ford bulletin that said some blocks were milled a little close at the factory and was prone to this.....there was a fix.......but it must be done by the factory...........and all the time I thought I had block porosity.......You think ford dealer would have known this and be up on his bulletins. I never would have let him put block sealer in my engine if he had asked. I would have just dealt with a little seepage.
#2
Well, I don't know where you are at (Home) and if your truck is a Cali truck
or one of the other 49 states. Yes, it does make a difference. When you look at the pump in the valley of death is there a large black saucer,
Star Ship Enterprise sitting on top of it? If there is your problem just increased by 25% if not, it's a piece of cake.
There is a large bolt (11/4") if I recall and depending on if you have a Cali determines how far beneath the turbo the nut is. There is a copper washer against the head of the bolt and one between the fuel "Y" tubing and the pump.
As a general rule you can get a wrench on it an tighten it just a little and it will stop leaking.
Are you sure that is where the fuel is leaking from? The first thing is to find the leak and this is done buy really, really stuffing paper towels in every crook and cranny to mop up the fuel and get that valley bone dry.
Then with the aid of a mirror and a bright flash light you start the engine and immediately start looking and there are many places for it to leak.
Check around the fuel bowl, all lines beneath if, at the fuel pump and so on.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Rog
or one of the other 49 states. Yes, it does make a difference. When you look at the pump in the valley of death is there a large black saucer,
Star Ship Enterprise sitting on top of it? If there is your problem just increased by 25% if not, it's a piece of cake.
There is a large bolt (11/4") if I recall and depending on if you have a Cali determines how far beneath the turbo the nut is. There is a copper washer against the head of the bolt and one between the fuel "Y" tubing and the pump.
As a general rule you can get a wrench on it an tighten it just a little and it will stop leaking.
Are you sure that is where the fuel is leaking from? The first thing is to find the leak and this is done buy really, really stuffing paper towels in every crook and cranny to mop up the fuel and get that valley bone dry.
Then with the aid of a mirror and a bright flash light you start the engine and immediately start looking and there are many places for it to leak.
Check around the fuel bowl, all lines beneath if, at the fuel pump and so on.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Rog
#3
Well Ford fixed it yesterday.......they said that bolt was loose there at the Y so they tightened the bolt and that was it.........I can say.......I drove it a bit yesterday and there is no leak..........so my truck was made in Canada......it does have a big black plastic looking housing on top of the engine........on that housing there is large plastic looking piece that opens up to kinda get towards the engine.........does that make sense........so do I have to remove that to get to the valley and fuel pump........I just looked at it and I'll be damned if they didn't leave one of the bolt tops off that big black piece..........I hate that, when they don't put things back together right........
#4
#5
does anyone know the part number or the size for this copper washer?? Im using my brother in laws acount here and this my biggest problem on my truck! Im losing a lot of fuel from this 1-1/4 bolt and im trying to fix it! althought I cant just take it apart and go since this is my only vehicle and would need to make sure i can get this washer!
Thanks
Aaron
97 7.3L Stroke
Thanks
Aaron
97 7.3L Stroke
#6
Fuel Line Gasket (copper washer)
* (Ford) F6TZ-9160-AA
You can reuse them by annealing (soften)
Use acetylene only and blacken them with the soot.
Turn up the torch and burn off the soot.
Throw them in water. They should be dead soft and reseal your leak.
The reason for the soot is heat control, it assures that you don't melt the copper.
* (Ford) F6TZ-9160-AA
You can reuse them by annealing (soften)
Use acetylene only and blacken them with the soot.
Turn up the torch and burn off the soot.
Throw them in water. They should be dead soft and reseal your leak.
The reason for the soot is heat control, it assures that you don't melt the copper.
#7
I have a leak as well....
Dried the valley and was able to tighten the 1 1/4" bolt a bit with a modded wrench...
My gasket looks to be aluminium..not copper..?
There was a 1/4" grease pencil line over a bolt flat and banjo housing.
Was able to tighten the bolt the width of the line...1/4"
Still leaking... but forward of the bolt..from under the fuel pump...but not forward of the filter housing base.
Anything special I need to know prior to removing the fuel pump?
Are all hose clamps easily accessible?
Will get new copper gasket for the 1 1/4" bolt and the 5/16" hoses w/clamps.
How many hoses are there? Should i just replace the pump while in there?
as it could be leaking from the "weep hole" ..
Level of difficultly..1-10?
Manhours?
'95 F350
E4OD
76,000 miles
Dried the valley and was able to tighten the 1 1/4" bolt a bit with a modded wrench...
My gasket looks to be aluminium..not copper..?
There was a 1/4" grease pencil line over a bolt flat and banjo housing.
Was able to tighten the bolt the width of the line...1/4"
Still leaking... but forward of the bolt..from under the fuel pump...but not forward of the filter housing base.
Anything special I need to know prior to removing the fuel pump?
Are all hose clamps easily accessible?
Will get new copper gasket for the 1 1/4" bolt and the 5/16" hoses w/clamps.
How many hoses are there? Should i just replace the pump while in there?
as it could be leaking from the "weep hole" ..
Level of difficultly..1-10?
Manhours?
'95 F350
E4OD
76,000 miles
Trending Topics
#8
Fuel Line Gasket (copper washer)
* (Ford) F6TZ-9160-AA
You can reuse them by annealing (soften)
Use acetylene only and blacken them with the soot.
Turn up the torch and burn off the soot.
Throw them in water. They should be dead soft and reseal your leak.
The reason for the soot is heat control, it assures that you don't melt the copper.
* (Ford) F6TZ-9160-AA
You can reuse them by annealing (soften)
Use acetylene only and blacken them with the soot.
Turn up the torch and burn off the soot.
Throw them in water. They should be dead soft and reseal your leak.
The reason for the soot is heat control, it assures that you don't melt the copper.
Blue fuel pump lines...
Fuel pump
Love this place...
#10
You can get fuel pump at NAPA autozone or most any parts house. They are all made by carter no matter what is says on the package. Fuel lines get hose rated for fuel injection it will have a blue lining will work fine get it at NAPA. or autozone pumps at autozone run about $90.00. Takes about 2hours the first time gets easier from then on. Just be patient.
#11
You can get fuel pump at NAPA autozone or most any parts house. They are all made by carter no matter what is says on the package. Fuel lines get hose rated for fuel injection it will have a blue lining will work fine get it at NAPA. or autozone pumps at autozone run about $90.00. Takes about 2hours the first time gets easier from then on. Just be patient.
Truck cranks... fuel to separator... (comes out drain when opened).. Won't start....
Need to bleed somewhere?
I vented air from a schraider valve on the separator body.. no help.
Please advise...
Jeff
#12
Installed my AutoZone pump today..($108) ... and four OEM hoses and banjo gaskets ($35)...
Truck cranks... fuel to separator... (comes out drain when opened).. Won't start....
Need to bleed somewhere?
I vented air from a schraider valve on the separator body.. no help.
Please advise...
Jeff
Truck cranks... fuel to separator... (comes out drain when opened).. Won't start....
Need to bleed somewhere?
I vented air from a schraider valve on the separator body.. no help.
Please advise...
Jeff
#13
#14
#15
I thought about not filling the bowl...AFTER the minutes of cranking..
"Live and Learn"....