I just purchased a 62 Thunderbird with a 390, and a generator charging system. I have another thread going in the FE forum about trying to convert to an alternator system (hopefully without a $120 bracket). But in the meantime, I wanted to see if I can get the generator to at least make an effort.
I took a reading of the battery, which was at 12.65v
I started the engine, and the battery dropped and fluctuated between 12.44 and 12.45v
Revved the engine a bit, and still no change in output. Turned on the headlights, and voltage dropped even lower.
I've tried the jumper from the + Batt terminal to the FLD wire. It sparked like I read it would, but after reconnecting the battery and firing the girl up, it still didn't charge up anything.
What other tests can I run on the generator & voltage regulator to find the problem? I've searched the forums, but haven't found any really definite answers of what to try next.
While monitoring the battery voltage, take the field wire off the gen and tape it. Get the engine running, and ground the field terminal. See what the battery voltage does. If it does nothing, then jump the field terminal to the battery terminal and see what the voltage does.
I am not sure if your system grounds the field to charge, or powers the field to charge, so that's why I said ground it first and see what happens.
Thanks Dave. You walked me through my 79 electrical problems, so I know how to test an alternator set up pretty well now, but generators are completely foreign to me...
I may well be wrong but when Ford went to 12 vot the brushes in the generator were made softer due to some commutator problem. I'll bet the brushes are shot. kotzy
I may well be wrong but when Ford went to 12 vot the brushes in the generator were made softer due to some commutator problem. I'll bet the brushes are shot. kotzy
Well if the voltage doesn't jump up when he messes with the field terminal, you might be right.
I am not sure if your system grounds the field to charge, or powers the field to charge, so that's why I said ground it first and see what happens.
The way to till which way it is wired is to check the resistance between the big terminal and the small "F" field terminal, you need to take off wires to test.
Low resistance = GRD field for max charge (at 2000 rpm) as it pick up the field circuit power internally from the big terminal.
Open circuit between = apply 12 battery power to field ternimal as the field GRD internally inside the Generator.
The brushes are easy to change. I would not change to an ALT if you dont need to. But Generators dont charge very good at idle but an ALT will.
I've tried the jumper from the + Batt terminal to the FLD wire. It sparked like I read it would, but after reconnecting the battery and firing the girl up, it still didn't charge up anything.
Thanks in advance folks!
This method of polarizing will only work in the field circuit grounds internally in the generator. The polarizing current flow must match normal current flow. If you polarize in the wrong direction the generator will not work.
Sorry if this gets confusing, Ford did the field circuit one way and GM did it the other way, which is why I always check to see how the generator is wired first.
I just went out and pulled off the field wire and started her up. The 'Gen' light stays on now, and I tried grounding the field terminal, and jumping it to the batt +. No voltage change.
Battery Reading at 12.54
Engine Running with FLD disconnected at Gen 12.24 (Gen light on)
Engine running with FLD connected 12.21 (Gen light off)
I believe you should get a ohm reading if you put a ohmmeter between the bat terminal and the case of the gen, with the bat wire off. If you do not get any type of continuity, it's a safe bet the brushes are shot.
A mid 70's alt from a GM product would be the easiest alt to retro fit as far as wiring. I wouldn't think a bracket would be that big of a deal, but some people are better at those types of things than others.
Just went out there and pulled the + Battery cable, and put my meter between that post and the case of the generator, and there was no ohm reading. So now to decide to buy a set of brushes and bearings, or try to get an alternator in there...
How much does it usually cost for the parts to rebuild a generator yourself?
Just went out there and pulled the + Battery cable, and put my meter between that post and the case of the generator, and there was no ohm reading. So now to decide to buy a set of brushes and bearings, or try to get an alternator in there...
How much does it usually cost for the parts to rebuild a generator yourself?
The generator regulator has points in it, and those *&(&^& points get stuck.
Look at the regulator cover, is it dented? That's from ppl tapping on the cover, which usually gets the points unstuck.
I listed the parts above: Post #5.
Even tho I don't have the 60/64 parts catalog, the 49/59 catalog has a generator cross reference list and one of the numbers is: C2SZ-10002-A = 1962 T-B.
The brushes and the two bearings should be less than $30.00 total. Take those Motorcraft numbers to NAPA, they can cross them over to the brands they sell.
C9ZZ-10094-A .. Bearing is still supplied by Ford, because it was also used in alternators. The Ford list price is: $10.06
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman ~ 1962/1997
Part Number Research available for the following: Trucks: 1928/2002 / Cars: 1928/2000
Before you start the overhaul check the resistance of the field circuit. It should be a very low resistance, say 3 to 5 ohms. This is between "F" terminal and the case ground. If the field winding is open it will not be cost effective to fix it. Take it apart first to see it the brushes are worn out. Look at the overall condition of the generator before you buy the parts. The bearings can last alot longer than the brushes and they might not need to be changed.
PS... when you tested the generator by applying 12v to the "F" terminal, the voltage regulator was not being used. The voltage regulator is what would normal be applying the voltage/current to the field circuit if the field wire was still connected.
NAPA online brush P/N info
Item#: ECHF413
Price: $4.29
tax and shipping not included
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Product Featuresim: .895 x .930 x .291 x .920
Additional Contents:Two brushes per set.
Before you start the overhaul check the resistance of the field circuit. It should be a very low resistance, say 3 to 5 ohms. This is between "F" terminal and the case ground.
Just did this test, and it read at 2.5 ohms
Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
The generator regulator has points in it, and those *&(&^& points get stuck.
Look at the regulator cover, is it dented? That's from ppl tapping on the cover, which usually gets the points unstuck.
The regulator cover was fine, but I just put a couple of dents in it myself to try to knock anything sticking loose
I ordered a brush set to my local parts dealer, and they'll have it tomorrow morning. I can always return it if I don't end up needing it. My girlfriend is taking the bird to work and back tomorrow (under a mile) and I have an extra charged battery behind the passenger seat, just in case. I'll be pulling the generator out tomorrow afternoon and taking it apart, so I'll post how it seems to look inside.
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im: .895 x .930 x .291 x .920
