Hi Fella's,
this is my first post here, and I (or my truck) needs some help!
I've got a 1966 F 100, with a slightly built 1970 429.
Complete engine rebuid, with stock heads.
Ok, so I wanted to add a little "show" and more horse power,
so I tossed on a new set of Edlebrock aluminum heads,
rocker rolls, and new shorter push rods.
Same carb, same intake.
I fired it up and it runs real rough at idle, it doesn't seem to have the power it did before, and now, I have gas in the brake booster hose!
I went through the carb today and put in a new power valve (to specs), and new gaskets.
Still that same thing!
I am lost, frustrated, and ready to put the old stuff back on, and call it a day.
Any suggestions, or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Seems odd... When you put the heads on, I presume you set the load and all that good stuff to set your valves correctly. To be honnest, with fuel in the booster hose, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere along the line. Perhaps the intake is not sealed like it should be. What manifold and carb are you running?
Just thinking outloud... --Mike
__________________
Mike G
1965 F100 LWB .060 over 390/beefed C6
1968 Cougar XR7 (wife's toy)
2002 Chev Avalanche
1992 GMC K1500 4x4
2001 Infiniti I30
2004 Honda CRF250R
2003 XR50 w/big bore 80cc kit
1990 Chaparral 2000SL 20ft bow-rider 5.7L Merc
Yes...there are only three licensed drivers in the household
Seems odd... When you put the heads on, I presume you set the load and all that good stuff to set your valves correctly. To be honnest, with fuel in the booster hose, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere along the line. Perhaps the intake is not sealed like it should be. What manifold and carb are you running?
Just thinking outloud... --Mike
Hi Mike,
Yes, did the pre-set stuff before hand.
I am running a Edlebrock "Performer" manifold, and a Holly 750 carb (I thought it was a 650, but it's not).
I'm going to check for vacuum leaks this morning, and get back to you.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
just a thought, you put in shorter push rods! are you sure that the valves are oppening all the way? if not you would have a lot of mixture hanging in the manifold. JNT
When I got the heads, I asked the guys at Fast Times about that, and they gave me an adjustable puch rod, and told me to:
mark the top of the valve stem with a black marker.
Install the adjustable push rod, and new rocker arm and set the valve.
Then, hand crank the engine over, and then remove the rocker arm to see where the rocker was hitting on the valve stem.
When the mark is centered on the stem, that is the correct length rod to get.
If the mark is on the back side, the rod is to long, and on the front side the rod is to short.
So, that said, you would think the valve is opening as it should with the mark centered on the stem, right, or am I missing something?
So, that said, you would think the valve is opening as it should with the mark centered on the stem, right, or am I missing something?
You want the rocker center to be a little forward (out) from center of the valve stem, to account for a little travel when the valve is being pushed open, but you are on the right track. Let us know if the potential sealing problem rears its head.
What about ignition timing? were you sure to get everything back as it should be. I have seen a mixed wire route cause hours of wasted beer drinking time...
--Mike
__________________
Mike G
1965 F100 LWB .060 over 390/beefed C6
1968 Cougar XR7 (wife's toy)
2002 Chev Avalanche
1992 GMC K1500 4x4
2001 Infiniti I30
2004 Honda CRF250R
2003 XR50 w/big bore 80cc kit
1990 Chaparral 2000SL 20ft bow-rider 5.7L Merc
Yes...there are only three licensed drivers in the household
You want the rocker center to be a little forward (out) from center of the valve stem, to account for a little travel when the valve is being pushed open, but you are on the right track. Let us know if the potential sealing problem rears its head.
What about ignition timing? were you sure to get everything back as it should be. I have seen a mixed wire route cause hours of wasted beer drinking time...
--Mike
Mike, when you say "forward", do you mean towards the headers, or towards the carb?
Excuse the interuption, mrgoodwood, but it pains me when a supposed professional gives a customer advice like the magic marker on the valve trick. Please take the time to read this entire link- it especially relates to the 429. I've been using Mr. Miller's products for some time, and I can guarantee you, if you take the time to read and study his theories, you will find increased performance and reliability. Not trying to be a smarty-pants, just trying to help you get the most for your money. Mid Lift works, that's all there is to it.
Excuse the interuption, mrgoodwood, but it pains me when a supposed professional gives a customer advice like the magic marker on the valve trick. Please take the time to read this entire link- it especially relates to the 429. I've been using Mr. Miller's products for some time, and I can guarantee you, if you take the time to read and study his theories, you will find increased performance and reliability. Not trying to be a smarty-pants, just trying to help you get the most for your money. Mid Lift works, that's all there is to it.
Excuse the interuption, mrgoodwood, but it pains me when a supposed professional gives a customer advice like the magic marker on the valve trick. Please take the time to read this entire link- it especially relates to the 429. I've been using Mr. Miller's products for some time, and I can guarantee you, if you take the time to read and study his theories, you will find increased performance and reliability. Not trying to be a smarty-pants, just trying to help you get the most for your money. Mid Lift works, that's all there is to it.
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