1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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This is my first post, although I've been browsing and searching this great forum for some time.
I bought my '90 F250 351 4wd E4OD 2 weeks ago for 500 bucks. It ran fine for the first few days, the check engine light was on, but no problems.
Then it began. It would start fine, idle fine, no check engine light. But when I put it in gear and go, it would either sputter and stall right there, or wait maybe 30 seconds and sputter and all but stall, check engine light coming on with the sputtering. I barely got it started and back into the driveway. I replaced the fuel filter, and this seemed to fix the problem, the CEL would come on after a few minutes of driving, but there was no change in driveablity.
This lasted for a whole day. The the problem came back, and I noticed that when I turned on the key, the fuel pump would come on, but not go off (no prime for like 2 seconds). After I let it sit for a couple of days, I tried it again. It went away again, the pump would prime for 2 secs and all was well. Then it came back. I found the negative cable from the battery that is bolted to the engine was nearly gone ( hanging by a thread), so I fixed that. It seemed to remedy the problem. But now, week later, and the problem is back with a vengence. Now the fuel pump relay is chattering, along with assorted other relays around the coil, the pump doesn't turn off, and the truck wont even start.
Sorry about writing you guys a novel for my first post, but I figured you needed all the info I had.
Anyone have ideas about whats going on? Seems like its definately electrical, I haven't had much time to work on it yet..
normally a running fuel pump is a bad ECU .. i had that problem a while i ago a new ECU fixed my problem.. maybe wanna chek try it.. borrow one from a friend or something and just chek it if it fixs your problem then you know..
Just for kicks, I would disconnect the neg. battery cable, then disconnect and inspect the ecu cable connections for corrosion, moisture, etc. Only risk is a little time. If you replace the ecu, be sure to pack the connector with silicone grease to keep out the moisture.
behind the drivers side kickpanel you can fit any E or F series vehicle just make shure its ment to be used with an 351/e4od .. mine is from an E series van..an ambulance ( lucky me ).. and its working fine.
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